BHDave

lol I thought i had 3 dot's figured, but what does 4 and 6 dots mean? I'm so confused...

Is starting or ending a sentence with 3 dots a new fad? Or does it strengthen an argument? Let me try I feel the need to fit in... Comparing stock to stock is irrelevant as the engine will have bolt ons...mod for mod is where it's at as dead 32 has indicated with his example... Though i'm pretty certain cubes is right about the rb20 having higher peak torque (when stock)... nah, the dots don't work for me.

cut it off, very carefully

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=87251&hl= This is my old for sale thread of a stage 2 highflow with pics. Hopefully it's helpful. It would be about 3.5-4 years old now at a guess

Are you talking about a red dr30 and a red s14 by any chance dead32? both making around 210rwkw?

But we really want to know where you can get a 300rwkw capable rb bottom end for $600

I'm a bit off topic here, but what the hell... 2 years ago i ditched the rb20 for a 25 and was a very happy boy. Admittedly my rb20 was shagged. There are only 2 rb20's i know of that make me wonder if i made the right decision. Roy's with his stock bottom end and 260 odd rwkw and Legend01's built 2.1L with 300 plus and silly good response/midrange considering the size of the turbo. Back on topic, get the car you like. If you like r32's or cef's then there are people out there doing pretty good things with rb20's, or you could go a 25det conversion. If you like 180's, then don't, whatever you do, put an rb in it. I hang around with way too many s chassis owners and i can tell you that up to 230rwkw on a stock bottom end sr is easily acheivable and a hell of a lot of fun with excellent midrange power and torque. If you buy the right car with the right mods on it to start with you will be able to do a hell of a lot with it before you spend your way through 23k

I had a similar problem 2 years ago, completely random miss but mine would happen at cruise, on boost, on idle whenever it felt like it really. It would happen maybe once every 5 minutes at worst, sometimes it wouldn't happen at all. In the end i solved it in the same way you are planning to But i tried (not in order); afm swap cas swap ignitor swap coil swap ignition rewire removal of emanage plug swap injector clean injector swap ecu swap checked tps (probably should have swapped it) rb25 engine loom and ecu swap (problem solved)

Dude! I think i would have gone a bit mental having that many parts sitting at home and not fitted to the car. I hope right before you started collecting you invested in a nice new house alarm.

You may find that the water line banjo sizes are different at the turbo end between your stock turbo and r33 one. I had thought it was a late r32 got the ones that suit 33 turbo vs early r32 are smaller and dont fit, but apparently it's fairly random. Oh, and it helps to get the compressor outlet pipe aswell, otherwise you have to make one or mod your rb20 one to fit. Other than those 2 things, it's bolt on......if you drill and tap the rb25 turbos comp cover to fit the nipple for the pressure signal. It's not a hard job, just be aware of the possible problems up front.

Yes. All rb25 turbos are bb whether they are s1, s2 or neo 34. Oblivion needs to do more research.

You should look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=164913

get swaybars and some coilovers, and maybe some castor rods if the budget can stretch that far Then you can corner faster and out run all the guys with stock suspension and 200rwkw

anti clockwise

pm sent re air box (if it's still available)

Hi guys, I'm chasing a stock airbox. I'd prefer one in sydney for pick up but am willing to pay post if i can't find one locally. Cheers, Dave

Turns out i was sent 2 sets of fronts, just waiting on the rear ones to turn up before i start. I would have had them all in last weekend otherwise. Should have them next week so maybe in a fortnight before i am done as i have no garage atm which makes working on the car at night not enjoyable enough for me to do anything.

Yeah, i know, I'm a bit of topic but my thoughts tend to bounce around; Overall, a bit of a disappointing night, but i did learn something from it; The cef only had it's cams installed the previous night and was run up on the dyno to tweak the tune and proceeded to spit out a clutch at about 270rwkw around 4-4.5k. I think he would have had me. So i have about a 2 week wait to see what he can do and the same dyno. I really wanted to see what the 71mm compressor could do in a back to back situation as it would have sealed the deal for me if it made more power with better response. I was down by about 10rwkw when initially run up with the same setup as my last 288rwkw run. Only changes were the rb25 gearbox install, new diff center and a new set of rt215's. I'd added some octane booster to see how far i could push my current setup and see if i could break the magical 300 barrier so proceeded to add a couple of degrees timing, and made 281rwkw. Then added a touch of boost (up to about 19psi up top), and made 281rwkw, then added another 3 degrees timing gradually, and made, you guessed it, 281rwkw. Correct me if i'm wrong here, but does this mean that i'm really not that far off having the power capped by the turbos ultimate flow capability (compressor or turbine?), rather than detonation threshold? I'm talking peak here, as there were small midrange gains made by both the addition of timing and boost. It's this mid range area i'd expect to improve with the use of the newer smaller compressor and twin scroll housing. Is this a correct assumption? That is ultimately my goal now that i know i'll never reach 300 with what i have so i'm not interested in going there as i'll lose the power down low that i really enjoy. I suppose the other thing worth asking, is whats this saying about the turbine inlet pressure and it's effect on the whole situation if i'm only a couple of degrees timing short of ultimate peak power of the system with my current .63 turbine housing? Should a just stick with a .63 3071?

Sorry, greddy inlet manifold. I already have an hks low mount exhaust manifold. I think it was the apexi ex manifolds that have the multi flange on the rear 2 ports. 56T 3071 in a .78 twinscroll housing should be good for very high 200's with bullshit good response. I have a battle with a 2835proS/rb25 equiped cef tomorrow evening. We have the same cams, stock bottom ends. It should be interesting to see if the 56T/71mm compressor can knock over my old 52T T04s in the power stakes (assuming he hasn't cheated)

I can understand about the pivot. It's not something i'd mess with personally. But, I had nissan source and fit new front wheel bearings for my 32. I think the guy you talked to just put it all in the too hard basket and made up some bullshit. I removed the backing plate and there's a large nut in there. The spindle is actually press fit into the bearing, which is press fit into the hub (or the other way around ) My new bearing were actually really tight, but loosened up pretty quickly with use.

I've run superstreets, they are a nice road coilover. I'd be inclined to get the flex's though, particularly if they are flex mono's. More range of adjustment, a bit stiffer but not over the top, plus they should be a fair bit cheaper too being second hand.

It'll be a little bit harder on the car, but not particularly difficult.

If you get one with a removable top, then remove it and check inside before installing. my cheapie had to be cleaned up inside.

Without knowing it's history i can't say. If you know it was on a car and running fine then by all means get it, but if someone is selling a turbo and stating that it needs a rebuild then there's a fair chance it's rooted.

same here, as personally, i think the 3071 should be the weapon of choice for stock bottom end 25's. funnily enough i'm looking at a greddy manifold aswell.....