BHDave

The turbo will have a restrictor built into the oil feed. If you are paranoid you can get the turbo end fitting on your new lines welded up and re drilled to a smaller size (i dont know the size off the top of my head, roughly .8mm from my very sketchy memory). Otherwise you have no problem. plug gap is fine, do the fuel pump as suggested, safc will be alright for what you want to do but it will be a bit of a compromise.

It depends on what sort of condition the turbo was in when it went in for a rebuild. If there was excess thrust movement and the back of the wheels got scraped to buggery then they are throw away, same with excess sided to side. HKS wheels aren't the easiest things to get as they tend to run a slightly different trim to the regular garret turbos. regarding the cores, it's less common to see it these days as rebuilding bb turbos is more common, but 5 years ago, if you went looking for a rebuild it was plain bearing or the bin. So if it's off the car an has been rebuilt as a precaution or because it was getting a bit smokey, the yes, it will likely retain the original wheels.

To put a thumbnail in Go into add reply Under the text window there's a button browse. click that, select the pic. hit upload then go into the manage attachments pull down menu and click add into text editor. click preview post to see if it worked. here's another one of mine next to a beaten up sil80 To get the picture displayed, you need to upload to an off site server like photobucket and then link to the image.

Any pics of your set yet? in particular any damage/scratches

It would depend on whether the hypothetical rebuilt turbo maintains a bb core and the original wheels. Seriously, a 50k old bb turbo will still be perfectly fine if it has had clean oil run through it and hasn't eaten any rocks or bits of piston. I'd have a quick look at the second hander and if the wheels are undamaged and it spins freely with minimal sise to side movement and virtually no thrust movement tell the guy straight up that you'll take it but if it blows smoke he gets it back and you want a full refund. Same with the rebuilt one if you go that way, as you seriously dont have any way of knowing that it's been rebuilt without pulling it apart anyway.

s13

Action shot of mine with it's old wheels. And with the new ones (not that you can really see them in this shot) Why haven't i noticed this thread before?

It's back on the car, the vibration has improved a bit, it's still there but nowhere near as bad as it was. Saturday morning i'll be back under the car with a set of calipers checking again to see if anything has changed. I knew i should have stuck with a 2 piece.....

Latest is the shaft was fine for balance but one of the unis was attached to the shaft about 25 thou off center. This has now been fixed. It goes back on the car tonight when i get home.

Yes, you can swap them. Any of the major spring manufacturers will be able to supply replacements as they are likely a 65ID spring so very common. You will need to take into consideration your current spring rates, front and rear weight and range of adjustablility when getting springs with lower rates, particularly if your coil overs dont have base height adjustment, or if you already have the spring seat up near the top of the thread, as the weight of the car will compress them further, so you will need to either get a longer spring, or wind the spring seat up a bit more (if you have enough adjustment).

There are 4 bolts accessible from under the car that hold the syrups over the rack. undo those and a couple of smaller bolts on heat shields and odds and ends to get some room. the old bushes will probably fall apart when you try to remove them. Installation is the opposite of removal. It's an easy enough job, just a pain in the arse location to work.

The box is pointing straight at the diff, so the whole lot is square (to within a mm or 2). I bent my tunnel up for clearance when i was installing the box so it was sitting in the right spot. The yoke is parallel to the tail shaft which is parallel with the pinion. I don't particularly want to start messing with subframe angles just so i can get away with using a one piece shaft. I'll get the original 2 piece shaft modded before i go that far. Anyway, i got back under and removed the shaft so it's going to have the balance looked at. It's about 75mm dead32.

Got new drive shafts in, measured up to check the tail shaft angles based on daves posts and found the nose of the diff needed to come down about 3 mm and it would be dead straight, box end was spot on. So made some spacers, chucked them in, no difference And my rear roll center adjusters are the wrong ones And now i have to get back under the car to remove the tail shaft

whats the ratio? 5 or 6 bolt output shafts? Out of another cef, r32 or s13?

yep, z32 or r32gtst

By all accounts the engines do all right. Shame about the 1800kg car that surrounds them, and the weak as piss drivelines behind them. Does anyone know of a modified turbo falcon that hasn't done a box or diff (or 3)?

Whats the dodgy mod? swap rear end and make up some sleeves for the front bolt holes or is there more to it? S13 non abs will be the simplest alternative if you want a ratio change at the same time. ABS diffs are longer so you also need the abs rear half of the tail shaft to suit. Luckily non abs is a lot more common in s13's and r32's. Interesting to hear your thoughts on the longer diff ratios cubes. I'd have thought the 3l would benefit from some 4.11's. I'm considering a set for mine and i only have a 2.5.

short answer, no. You are right about needing the r33 rotors and redrilling to suit

for issue 2; Have you looked at the coils yet? Either the bodgy tape solution or clean the contacts? Or even trialing someone elses coils?

It's a t3g. Old plain bearing hks unit, good for about 210-215rwkw. They usually come with a dump pipe that matches up to your front pipe due to the different outlet flange.

On the wiper wiring just strip that section out of the rb20 loom and reinstall it. You can then remove all of the r33 wiper wiring from the rb25 loom to tidy it up. All you should need is a new power and possibly earth on that section, i just can't remember as it's been a while since i did the swap. On the other bit, sorry mate, can't help you. Though it is common for nissan to use a black wire with a white stripe on switched ignition sources and red on constant battery voltage. White black sound like it may be the coil power but i'm guessing now, it could have been white blue. w/b and w/bl are for eccs and coils (i think) so both need power regardless.

Yeah, I've already swapped the rear wheels to test it, no change. Thanks cubes, I had considered the possibility that it was the box, but didn't want to go there at this stage I tried both 4th and 5th the first time I noticed it and it didn't seem to make a difference.

Pulled the drive shafts this morning and dropped them in to be recoed. The bloke reckoned they were in pretty good nick for their age, through there was some discolouration in the outer on one side due to heat. He asked if they had been clicking (they had) as there was some minor dimpling in the outer ring of the outer CVs. So the whole clicking diff thing can be put to bed once and for all when i get them back on the car (hopefully). Stuck the car in gear and brought the drive line up to speed (seeing as the were no driveshafts). Vibration is still there though no where near as bad with no load (or maybe driveshafts to contribute?), so the prime suspect is still the tail shaft. that can come out tomorrow and get re balanced.

Yes. PITA I never finished it so it's only a partition

Sorry, I should have been clearer. The real 3071 doesn't need the turbine housing changed to suit a t3 flange because it only comes with a t3 flange. Both internal and non gated housings are available. The internal housing is a good bit of gear, it's the same as you'll find on the 3076.