BHDave

doh! missed that, i even read it twice to make sure!

I'd get a strut brace, it will stiffen up the front end a touch and every little bit helps. Front camber adjustment would also be beneficial. The whiteline bushes will let you wind a bit more in. It's also worth thinking about swaybars followed by a diff. $200 per end for swaybars is just a bargain when you consider what a difference they will make to the handling of the car.

Mine arrive yesterday Now i'll have to make up some drifts to get the old ones out and the new ones in.

Where's your waste gate supposed to fit? High 4's before you start to make any reasonable power if you're lucky and it's tuned right. You've gone about 2 sizes too big on the compressor for 250rwkw.

Just to add to your confusion; I get the impression you have been looking at the dodgytech style 3071 with the T2 internally gated housing. The proper one is only available in a t3 style housing. I can't find my list but -5023 suffix rings a bell (can anyone confirm?) The 3076 specs you have listed are an odd ball indeed. 52T comp wheels are generally only available on HKS 3037's (but not the pro S) the .68 turbine housing is again an hks only housing and only available on the pro S. If you have found such an oddity then i'd be grabbing it fast as it will be a nice bit of gear i think and well suited to the 2.4.

Thats pretty much where i was a few years back. I made 175 on 12 so 200+ will be a cake walk.

Thats just odd. Anyway, regarding the spacer, you can pick up a 20mm bolt on spacer from just jap with the right size hub ring, or you can have a machine shop remove the lip on the one you've got.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...34132&st=40 everything you need to know and lots that you don't.

glad i didn't try it

It looks like you have regular old r32gtst brakes on there. It's weird that the rims are fouling as i have seen GTT rims on an s15 which has a near identical caliper and same size rotor and there was heaps of room. Do you have a pic of the rim on the car showing where it fouls?

Nah, I'm the only person on the forum who's scared of going sideways If you got in a 33gts4 and took it for a spin, i think you'll be very happy that you got the turbo rwd one. I never set out to achieve a certain power figure either, I just got the urge to buy a hks low mount kit that a mate had sitting in his back room, and then once installed, i just wanted to make the most out of it i could. If my stock turbo hadn't popped i'd still have a stock turboed rb20 pushing 165rwkw and i'd be a happy boy as it was a fun car to drive.

Hi guys, My outer cv's have developed a fair bit of slop over the 200 odd thousand k's they've driven, and 250+ rwkw they get hit with on occasion so I need some replacement drive shafts. Either good second hand ones, or the name of a good reconditioner, or a place i can get some new replacements. Prefer sydney so i can pick up as i really don't want to even think about freight costs at this stage. cheers Dave

Nismo 1.5 way (not a pro) It's a bit tighter than i'd like really, but it's still pretty new so it might soften up a bit with a few more km's

Day's winding down so have some time to bang on now. I haven't done anything spectacular with mine, I think it generally maintains traction due to the fairly linear power delivery, combined with decent rubber and the rear wheels sitting up pretty straight (less than -1 degree camber). The mechanical diff made the biggest difference though, after it was installed the car would just maintain traction (in a straight line) all the time, where previously you'd regularly get the instant 1 wheel spin and snap sideways in 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd. Even on corner exit, if it breaks, it's easily controlled and can be brought back in with no issue. All the bushes are replaced so there's no slop there, alloy subframe collars installed, sway bars done, adjustable upper arms rear as my car is too low to get away with adjustable bushes, and cusco coilovers (which is a bit on the stiff side and a bit under damped truth be told), hicas locked. Thats it. atm it has rt215's on the back 235 wide, prior to that it had a set of shagged d01j's (i think) 225 wide. They were noisey bastards.

Whats to explain? 3 piece rims have an inner, an outer and a center section. The inner and outer sections have a flange and the bolts go through the 2 flanges and through the edge of the center section to hold all 3 bits together. A leak through the bolt hole means that the sealant thats normally covering the joint has come away (probably due to age). Personally Loren, i'd take the whole thing to a decent wheel repair place and tell them to re seal it as you will have to strip the tyre and possibly disassemble the rim to do it properly. If you're in Sydney try Morton and May at Warwick Farm.

You should have a look at the plazmaman ones that UAS have on their site (also mentioned earlier in the thread). They maintain the stock bottom runners.

Them's fightin' words! It's a pretty subjective question, which will probably result in a lot of people arguing. Personally, i'd say it can be justified, but only if you have the rest of the car set up in such a way that it can utilize that sort of power without breaking into wheel spin at the first hint of boost.

The hicas computer is still inline with the speed sensitive steering. If you can figure out a way to maintain the speed signal to the steering when removing the unit it should work. I have been wondering whether you can just splice the speedo signal wire at the ecu into the solenoid but i'm not game to try and don't have the knowledge to be certain if it would work or blow something up anyway. I'm pretty sure there's another thread on this topic where they got into the nitty gritty of the signal required and all sorts of shit and it sounded to me like it was just the square wave speed signal which the speed sensor on the back of the speedo puts out.

That too! which is another reason why i find it weird that the 25 got different plugs specified. Could it be something silly like NGK didn't have the bkr's in the late 80's when the 20 and 26 were born but they were around in 93/94? What do r33/34 gtr's get factory?

Thats because bcp's are specified for 20's and 26's. I agree that bkr's are specified for 25's though.

sept 92, H1's. There is an easy answer. Check what you have before buying new ones. If the light doesn't work and it's day time, it doesn't hurt spending 5 minutes to remove it before driving to the parts place. The bulbs can be accessed while the lights are on the car.

I noticed the other day when my speed got above about 130km/h my car developed a fairly high frequency vibration that you can actually hear as a low hum inside the cabin. Not nice or confidence inspiring. The only recent changes since i noticed it have been an rb25 box and a 1 piece tail shaft and i've also installed some new steering rack bushes but am getting no feed back through the steering wheel so don't think thats it. Anyway, prime suspect at this stage is the 1 piece shaft which will be coming out for a check. A second thing i noticed when i got under the car for a look to make sure the weights hadn't come off was that the outer CV's on both drive shafts had a lot of play. Could this be the cause and it's just a bit of a fluke that it's happened now? I'll be getting them recoed anyway as it causes the car to bounce back and forth at slow speeds like it has excessive back lash (which it doesn't) and they'll break eventually with the near 300rwkw if left alone anyway. Oh, and it's definitely speed and not rev related as i dipped the clutch to make sure when it happened. Changed the gear box mount too as that wasn't too healthy to begin with, no effect, but the box doesn't bounce up and hit the tunnel on bumpy roads any more. Has anyone had issues with the CV's before as it's not something i've seen in my browsing over the last few years?

I'll be interested to see some figures on a local dyno as i am considering this turbo aswell.

I was going to say file the nub off the tie rod end but you already have. With the wheel that far inboard, confirm that it is actually the tie rod end rubbing, as it could also be the wheel hitting the strut or the front of the lower control arm when you turn and load up the suspension.

I agree with cubes to a certain degree and Rob It is reversion, the pressure differential between the front and back of the throttle isn't big enough to lift the bov off it's seat. I only noticed it after i did the stock bov mod and blocked up the little hole. I never noticed it before that, even with an old stage 2 gcg high flow