BHDave

I think the nismo veruspeed stuff is 80W-90 from memory. Cant help with the other stuff.

The turbo's a lump for starters. You've already discovered that anyway. Bin it, it's a horrible mismatch of compressor and turbine. 3071 or 3076, or a highflow even will do much much better. To fit that turbo you have a custom manifold or just an adapter on the stocker? That will decide the cheapest easiest way out. What does the map trace do when the mixtures are all over the place? remembering boost is the reference it has to be either looking up the wrong cells or there is a temperature correction table in there somewhere that messing with the fueling.

It'll probably fit. all the nissan splines are the same. You may have to make up some sort of adapter to sit your steering sensor in the right spot so you don't get hicas errors/power steer problems/indicator canceling issues. If you have it, just try it. You'll only lose half an hour doing it.

Pretty much as dead32 has stated. You dont need to rotate the box, you dont need to get the back of the car in the air but it does help to jack the front of the engine up to give yourself a bit more clearance. I generally leave the box in neutral, but have done it in first as well, it makes no difference. The easiest way to get it in is to get the box up and the splines into the clutch plate and then use the jack to get the thing as square to the back of the engine as possible. Make sure the jack is in line with the car so the box can roll forward easily. Give it a bit of a shake with a bit of forward pressure and it should just pop in. I've only ever used bolts to line it up to give the box something else to slide on and some support at the front, not tighten it on. If you've had the clutch out then obviously check that it's aligned correctly first.

they are 12x1.25.

The rears will get to about 330mm center to guard on the original springs, fronts get to about 315. They are supposed to go 330mm all round at the middle of the thread. they don't. You only have 50mm of adjustment too. get some 250mm springs and helpers for the rear if you want to go lower. Or just get some flex's as they have more adjustment.

Bit of an oddball looking thing isn't it! I don't think it would fit on a stock manifold to be honest. Potentially it could be very good with the right manifold (split pulse), but it is still plain bearing, and the turbine is probably a touch on the large size for the compressor. You'd be better off with the ball bearing 3071 in a .63 IW housing IMHO ( the proper 56T 71mm comp and 60mm GT30 turbine), or one of the ATP twin scroll rear ends if you really want a split pulse housing.

ngk bcpr6es which are a .8 gap. It should help with the mis fire unless your coils are absolutely rooted. If it doesn't then either new coils or one of the many fixes that are posted in the maintainence sticky thread. Dont worry about injectors and regs for now. fix the miss first.

No, it doesn't work. You haven't changed the stroke so you don't get an increase in capacity by running a shorter rod. What you get is a bigger gap (2mm in this case) on top of the piston combined with bigger rod angles. That rod is made to run with the tomei long throw crank so that the piston retains some meat in the crown above the gudgeon pin without punching a hole in the head wen it gets to tdc.

Dont gtr's have vacuum assist on the clutch? That'd explain it.

oh ffs. Just for the record guys, sambo got rid of his wreck over a year ago, there's nothing left.

It's your money, but i could think of a few other things i'd have with 1k. Just confirm that it's internal gate. I'd be inclined to spend the (roughly) 1700 on the 3071 or 3076 myself but, like i said, It's your money.

Dont. There are much better turbos out there. HKS GTRS, 2835 or from the garrett catalogue 3071 IW or 3076IW. These are all modern turbos that will fit your stock manifold and outperform your stock fuel system. 3 need a custom dump pipe and lines, the gtrs will fit the stock dump flange

plug it in. s13 is electronic speedo, r33 is the same. You'll probably have to lengthen the wires in the loom to suit as the s13 drive has a flying loom off it and r33 doesn't.

I think you've hit the nail on the head with that analysis. My T300s (T04s 52t (i think) t3 .63 rear) will make 1.4 bar by 3200 in the higher gears on the street, so response wise it really does make the current generation turbos look poor. Remember this is a plain bearing turbo too. Where it loses to the newer turbos is up top at higher boost where the timing has to come out of it to prevent detonation. If anyone can be stuffed looking at the rb25 dyno thread i have graphed 7,14, 18 and 20psi runs from memory. 14 made peak power of 274rwkw, 20 only made 288. you can really see the thing is running out of puff up top. This is on pump 98 too btw. While it's probably not a true comparison to mafia's setup as i have cams, manifold and ex gate, thats probably off set by the use of water/meth somewhat. I honestly think his turbo has more to give, even in .63 form, particularly as he has such effective detonation control so can add more boost (if the engine can take it).

rear rim with the lip bent in by about 10mm 3/4 of the way around with the rash associated with the face of a rim hitting a gutter at 70k's. Luckily it wasn't buckled So the rim had to get heated and the lip re rolled, some weld put on to fix some of the deeper gashes and then machined. then the center had to come out and get repainted as the heat blistered the paint. All up $250.

How low is it now? Id suggest an adjustable upper arm or bushes to correct the usual rear camber issue when the car is lowered and bring camber back into the <1 degree range. Then look at a 2mm slip on spacer if that doesn't fix it

I think it's just good to see the .63IW housing flow those sort of numbers. Regarding the response; does your comp cover on the new turbo have the anti surge inlet?

Prices like that mean they don't really want the install side of the job, but if you say yes then theres lots of fat in it for them. I'd shop around some more (or do the bushes myself).

You probably don't want to travel, but honestly, Morton and May in Warwick Farm will do a fantastic job. I dropped off a wheel i had been told was not repairable, and it came back like new. It's one of the few times i have been grinning like an idiot as i handed over my money.

I think your reasoning is spot on. However, i tend to think it will work for a couple of reasons 1) rb20 apex eng pfc is a modded 26 unit running one afm, and 2) there are correction tables for the afm to correct the difference. oh and 3) even on the single afm equipped cars (rb20 and 25) the signals are still split into 2 before hooking up to the ecu. Plus trent has some working examples obviously.

robbie, the way it's show in the pics is the easiest way to remove the hicas from the loop. Salads write up on NS (thats he's linked above) covers it all aswell. Once you remove the fittings from the hicas solenoid in the engine bay it becomes pretty obvious which hoses have to be joined up as there are only 2 loose ones once everything else is removed.

Short answer; yes. The car will be more inclined to oversteer with a bigger rear bar and stock front bar. If it didn't have an affect it would be a waste of money after all It's a half hour job to swap the bar (in a 32 atleast) chuck it in go for a drive at 7/10ths and see what it does. If you dont like it, swap it back.

Your information is correct. early r32's run different size banjos on the turbo. You seem to be somewhere in the middle so you could have either to be honest. an 89 is guaranteed to be small banjos, a 92 is big. An easy check is to measure the head of the banjo bolt on the out side water feed and ask the seller of the 25 turbo to measure the one on their turbo for you. I'd help you out but all my bits are in storage atm. looks like search does work

Which hks manifold are we talking about? low mount cast, high mount stainless, stock replacement side mount? though on a side note, 2530 is a pretty small turbo so there shouldn't be any problem fitting it to either.