BHDave

Morton and May at warwick farm 9601 7000. They worked a miracle on a rim i smacked against a gutter recently.

If you are going to all this expense to get the most out of a cheap turbo, wouldn't you be better off binning it and getting a turbo that better suited to the stock engine? 3071 or 3076 would be the obvious choices, one will make just under 300 on reasonable boost, one will make a bit over.

Nice choice. which pads you running?

I got mine from drift motorsport who is a forum trader. Fitting took me about 2 hours, mainly because i couldn't get the car up high enough to have any decent working room and the bracket was a tight fit over the new drivers side bush so i couldn't get the thread to catch initially (funnily enough same issue i had when fitting the poly sway bar bushes). My old ones also fell to pieces as i removed them.

normal. nothing to worry about

They'll fit easily

I'd say no chance with stock guards and non adjustable upper arms front. I have 8.5's, +30 17's with 225/45 tyres and about 3 degrees camber and it still scrubs a bit on stock guards when loaded up on corners. the old 215's didn't scrub at all though

All 20 spots now filled.

I made up some washers from 4mm plate steel and chucked them in on the ends of the rack. Left everything else plugged in and drove around like that for about 3 years with no problem (well no problem once it was realigned anyway). I only got around to removing all the lines and solenoids and doing the loop to the PS cooler a couple of months ago.

yeah, there were a couple of high points on the top front of the caliper that fouled. :laughing-smiley-014: forgot how funny it looked. Old photo too, still on the compliance tyres....

It depends on what your camber maeasures at now. if you have 3 degrees with your factory adjustment wound right out, the whiteline kit wont cut it, even with 2 of them. You'd need to raise the car then or get some adjustable arms which give a bigger range of adjustment. Then you have to start looking at traction rod adjustment to maintain toe angle with suspension movement.

Sorry mate, I have no idea what you mean by that. 16 spots are filled. I have 4 remaining now. cheers Dave

One question, what does the XL stand for on the 225/45 17 rs and why is it 2kg's heavier than the 235?

As does my dsbc, it has an extra duty amount for a set duration when the button is pushed which was my point. I run as much boost as the car has been tuned to run. Running lower boost and pushing to button to get more boost for a few seconds seems kind of pointless. If i want less boost i use less throttle.

My thoughts exactly. Which is why i think scramble is a wank Plus, how the hell am i supposed to reach under my dash to hit the button when i'm busy chopping ricers off the lights and need one hand to steer and one hand to shift?

check the fuel pressure, that will tell you if you have a fuel problem. Get a bodgy autometer gauge, tee it in line and tape it to the outside of your windscreen, then go for a drive and see if the pressure changes inline with vacuum/boost.

Caliper sits between the hub and the back of the rotor and the bolt's run through the hub from the back and screw into the caliper. regarding razor's comments, from what i've seen the hubs on all the s/r series nissans have the bolts centered at the same distance from the centre of the wheel, the difference in caliper offset is made up in the caliper legs (for lack of a better term).

What offset, how low, and how much camber? It will make a hell of a difference to what you can fit. 215/45 front, 235/45 rear is a safe bet.

Sounds like you have a leak in the system. look at replacing the slave, and if that doesn't fix it, the master. under 200 for the pair so it's not a costly exercise.

I've already got it down to $220 with 20 cars. I can't do much better than that unless another company who shall remain nameless starts returning my phonecalls. pm me if you want in

I managed to fit stock 32gtst rims over r34 calipers but i had to remove some alloy from the caliper to do it. There was bugger all clearance to anything when they were fitted up. Ideally, get some cheap second hand jap 17's.

Get your 12 degrees castor put in and do a lap around the carpark before leaving the alignment shop. It'll take it when the wheels are straight, but try and put some lock on with a bit of load and be ready to tear out inner guards and buckle the front panels. adjusting the castor back will throw the toe settings out.

Need to know you power goal or intended usage before making suggestions. zas, either a high flow or t28 based turbo is going to be limited to 250-260 rwkw anyway. For more than that a gt30 sized turbo is needed and they start about 1700 new. On top of the 28 based turbo price you would need lines, adapters and possibly a revised dump so the price goes up. Best bang for buck would be a slide highflow, best bolt on option would be a gcg highflow (this is my opinion based on running a gcg highflow followed by a similar sized non bb turbo on the same engine. The transient response difference is huge at small to mid throttle openings even though full boost hits about the same time), for more than 260 start looking at 3071's and 3076's for 300 plus

Sounds like the spark is blowing out as the coils aren't compatible with the rest of the ignition system. If you have the option of playing with the dwell time with your ecu it might fix it. lots of people have the same issue when trying to get external coils working. I tried the bosch coil option on an RB25 and a CA, couldn't get it to work properly on either, despite seeing the exact same setup work like a charm on another CA, I know another mate who has the bosch version working properly on an SR though he has added a couple of big capacitors in line somewhere.

drift motorsport (who is a forum sponsor) has both types, but check his thread to see what cars he has them for or send a pm.