BHDave

there are 2 different ones. the steering rack bushes (there are 2 on the rack itself) and steering column bush (there's one just up from the uni joint on the column) I've just changed the rack bushes as i had a spare 70 bucks and a couple of hours to blow over the long weekend. Haven't driven it yet though.

Just following up from mbs206. Is the fuel pump still running when it stalls?

With a nismo, i'd expect you could just grab the 5 bolt output shafts to suit from nissan and chuck the center in your existing housing. All the nismo centers are the same, only difference in the part numbers are for the type of output shafts that come with it (obviously, 1.5/2 way and pro etc are different but you get the idea). I've got the part numbers for the 5 bolts shafts floating around somewhere for a regular old 1.5 way/2 way. Dunno whether they are the same for a pro with adjustable preload. If it was a kaaz or cusco center (or another one that uses the stock output shafts) then i'd agree with dave.

It wont hurt it. You can drive it that way but it will just be a bit doughy below 4k. Personal preference is to splice into the o2 input at the ecu. saves mucking around in the engine bay and trying to run new wires through the firewall.

I haven't seen a new one for sale ever. Only second handers. Best to keep an eye out in the fs threads and yahoo auctions/talk to slidewize (forum sponsor) if anything pops up. You can fit a pretty big turbo down there make note of the hammer in the right of shot though. Power steering reservoir was relocated after this shot to clear the hot pipe and intake.

You'll need to get a tee and install it on the pressurized side. There's nowhere that you can screw it in on a stock car. If you have an external reg there will probably be a port where it will fit.

Don't know why nissan did it, but there are 2 possible sizes of inner bush, one is longer and thinner (one on the right) and the other shorter and fatter. I thought they only did it to R/Z32's. Guess not. You'll just have to look around at wreckers for the right one, as the thinner ones seem to be less common.

Ah, sorry mate, misread your post and thought you put a collar on and isn't that a kick in the teeth after looking at the pics

Yeah, but cubes, you have fitted a collar and then run a 25 pump which has the thin drive, and you also keep the revs down due to the 3lt bottom end. In your case i'd say it wasn't needed. If you were reving to 8k regularly or running a pump with the thicker drive on the stock collar i'd say otherwise, but in this case i'm looking at a lot of money that could have gone towards beer and hookers. Not denying that it's a known weak point in the r32 rb26's, but if revs are kept reasonable (under 7.5k) then there shouldn't be an issue. There aren't that many rb25's reporting failures with their factory 7k ish limiters and they all have the thin collar.

Spend $50 and chuck it on a dyno. You will know the answer in about 5minutes flat and not have to hope that we know what we are talking about. +1 on the fuel pump at this stage. Dyno will confirm.

Get the thread guy out as you are stuck now. Easy outs are a piece of piss to use, it's all about being careful. 1) center punch the snapped stud so you are centered when you drill 2) pilot hole with a small drill and make sure you are as close to square as possible (90 degree adapters help if you are doing it on the car). go right through the stud (about 15mm) new drill bits make life easy here. 10 bucks in drill bits is a small price to pay. If you can drill it without snapping the small drill bit then you can use an easy out. 3) drill it as big as you can without being bigger than the stud obviously, The stud usually loosens and spins in as you drill if you are square as they are not bottomed out 4) use the biggest easyout you can, it means it's less likely to snap 5) do not use a big shifter, use a small 12mm shifter if you don't have space for a proper tee. and support the easyout so you aren't pushing the whole lot off center when trying to turn the thing out. It won't be so tight you cant move it with minimal effort, it will just be the end of the thread is damaged slightly from the shoulder of the stud. That combined with the heat fatigue of the stud is the reason it snapped in the first place.

spigot bush doesn't move in relation to the input shaft when you're in gear and driving. Thats not the problem. If it did it when your foot was on the clutch, different story.

It wouldn't hurt

I did a test with gps today and found i'm pretty much spot on 10% high. Anyone know of a bigger gear that has the gears cut the right way?

I agree. Should fit easily, depending on tyre choice you may need the rears lipped.

I have some 20 or 25 mm converter spacers sitting im my garage atm if you're interested. You'll need to get new wheel nuts to suit them though

If it's only the back edge you'll be fine. If it's further forward then you will probably have to shorten the blades as well which isn't so good.

One is 8 bolt, the other is 6. No good.

Well after a week of mucking around with the r33 cluster and then an s13 one just in case the 33 one was cactus i grabbed a 32gtr drive (thanks risking) and used that. The shaft is about 10mm shorter than the VL/navara unit so that you get away without removing the key way. and the bottom section of the gear is a nice interference fit over the splines requiring the bench vice to press the gear on. I just chucked a bit of loctite on the splines before installing. I found that i also had to cut a new slot but only about 120 degrees around, rather than 180 as booster suggested. Also bashed the bottom edge of the tunnel a bit to give a straighter shot at the drive for the cable. Has anyone had cable failures due to the tight bends? or has anyone gotten a replacement shorter cable to suit the different drive position?

I do. But as said earlier, all of the metal substrate cats are much the same The size is the diameter of the center section, not the inlet and outlet size, so a 4 inch is 4 inch center section, it could still have 2.5 inlets. they are available in a variety of inlet sizes and centre diameters when not flanged. Bolt on ones are usually 3 inch in/out to suit the stock flanges.

If you have a genuine dump pipe with the machined surface you don't need a gasket. I installed a 2835proS kit (they come with no gasket) on a mates 25 and there were no leaks at the join. The braided lines on the 2835 were the same as the 2530 that was installed prior so theres a good chance your existing lines will be fine.

Not worth worrying about unless it's blowing oil all through the intake pipes

the 32 has the nipple on the compressor cover so no need to drill and tap. depending on the kit it can be straight forward with minimal cutting or you will have to cut the reo and front bar. You'll have the usual r33 problems otherwise with fan clearance and drilling the hole etc.

As sk said, they are pretty much the same as sards. You need the collars, and some standard denso type plugs and shave a bit off some of the plastic down at the bottom of the injector. They work in mine.

I'd love it if i could have gotten eastern creek as it would have been cheaper, and it's a better skidpan in my opinion. Unfortunately, i struck out so option 2 was oran park. pm replied grunter