BHDave

Updated again Bold shows changes from original ad 6x550 side feed blitz injectors in rb25 rail sold r33 rb25det Power fc inc hand controller sold r33 S1 RB25DET gearbox with custom 1 piece tail shaft suit r32, modified GTR speedo drive, slave cylinder and modded cross member sold rb25 det engine loom modded to suit late r32gtst manual. Minor changes will be needed to suit stock afm (4 wires) and o2 sensor(3 wires). currently wired to suit z32AFM $250 GTR front drivers side guard with lip rolled and a small dent above the wheel arch, silver, $200 GTR front drivers side indicator $100 GTSt indicators, pair sold GTSt front guards with compliance indicators, pair $300 rb25 ignitor $125 rb20/25 CAS $100 And the after market bits Trust remote mount oil cooler sold Xtreme XHD 9 puck clutch kit This is now an xhd pressure plate (1040kg or so) with an exedy full face friction plate that is near new. $250 Cusco comp coilovers damper and height adjustable front and rear 8/6 sold Cusco master cylinder brace suit 32gtst/gtr sold Whiteline 24mm front sway bar sold rb20/26/s1rb25 splitfires $400 Trust type R bov sold Just jap B pillar brace $100 Cusco castor rods bent $75 firm Maltech braided brake lines ADR compliant $250 Just Jap adjustable front upper control arms sold Stock front upper arms with nolathane adjustable bushes sold 2 Davies craig 14inch thermos sold early model hks rb25det cams 256 8.8/264 9.0 inc adjustable exhaust wheel $650. s1 rb25, no coils, no turbo no injectors. sump has a dent in it where it hit the sway bar but can provide a spare, runs well, good compression $1350 cheers Dave

hi mate, I have both. Non abs shaft which hopefully will suit shoot me a pm and we can talk price. I'm in campbelltown so not too far to travel either. edit, i'm assuming gtst as you haven't specified gtr....and there are no auto gtr's

nah, sorry mate. If it was a non runner or had issues then i would have.

you keep the hicas control unit plugged in (it's the box under the parcel shelf). remove the rear rack and install your lock bar. you remove all the under car stuff and the unit in the drivers side of the engine bay. When you have removed the above you will have 2 lines with no where to go. Chop off the banjos, get some hose and hook them together. remove the light in the dash. Job done, no heavy steering issues, no warning light to bother you. There is a way to keep the warning light active for the power steering fluid level by cutting one wire somewhere but i don't remember which wire.

sorry roy, the crossmember ended up being pretty badly bent and the rest is sold already.

cusco master cylinder brace sold

hi mate, i'm after a quote on 4 r888's 235/45-17 fitted. Probably in the med/hard which from memory is the GGG? cheers Dave

where are you? I have one in sydney

I'm glad you shared the results. For better or worse it adds to the knowledge base and takes it a step beyond the "i reckon based on numbers" type thinking that a lot of us end up having to do based on lack of actual results. Simple answer, $400 can be better spent elsewhere if chasing sub 300rwkw, much like .63 IW 3071 doesn't work

why have you still got the alloy compliance plate? useless weight! When you need a bit of alloy strap to mount something you'll know where to find it I'll be heading down a similar path in the not too distant future and i am getting some good ideas. I also spent a fair bit of time on sunday stripping useless wiring out of a silvia. I don't know what nissan were thinking when they designed the body loom. Why does the door buzzer that's mounted under the dash need to be earthed in the boot, along with a few other things?!?

Updated again Bold shows changes from original ad 6x550 side feed blitz injectors in rb25 rail sold r33 rb25det Power fc inc hand controller sold r33 S1 RB25DET gearbox with custom 1 piece tail shaft suit r32, modified GTR speedo drive, slave cylinder and modded cross member sold rb25 det engine loom modded to suit late r32gtst manual. Minor changes will be needed to suit stock afm (4 wires) and o2 sensor(3 wires). currently wired to suit z32AFM $250 GTR front drivers side guard with lip rolled and a small dent above the wheel arch, silver, $200 GTR front drivers side indicator $100 GTSt indicators, pair sold GTSt front guards with compliance indicators, pair $300 rb25 ignitor $125 rb20/25 CAS $100 And the after market bits Trust remote mount oil cooler sold Xtreme XHD 9 puck clutch kit price drop $300 plus post Cusco comp coilovers damper and height adjustable front and rear 8/6 sold Cusco master cylinder brace suit 32gtst/gtr $90 Whiteline 24mm front sway bar sold rb20/26/s1rb25 splitfires $400 Trust type R bov sold Just jap B pillar brace $100 Cusco castor rods bent $75 firm Maltech braided brake lines ADR compliant $250 Just Jap adjustable front upper control arms sold Stock front upper arms with nolathane adjustable bushes sold 2 Davies craig 14inch thermos sold early model hks rb25det cams 256 8.8/264 9.0 inc adjustable exhaust wheel $650. s1 rb25, no coils, no turbo no injectors. sump has a dent in it where it hit the sway bar but can provide a spare, runs well, good compression $1350 still heaps of parts left on the shell cheers Dave

I think if the 24/22 combo i bought maintained the 3 hole adjustment that the earlier bars had then it would have worked. The problem was lack of adjustment. If you are going through sydneykid you can probably get the 3 hole adjustment. Roy, were your 24/22 bars 3 hole or 2 hole? My alignment at the time was pretty conservative, still had stock diff, car had never seen a track and had decent tyres (rs595 front, rt215 rear). I had all the adjustable bits in the suspension to get the alignment right and i had super streets all round so no silly spring rates. And i'm not talking neutral tending to understeer either, it was worse than with the stock bars initially. drive into a roundabout at any speed and expect it to push

It's probably worth noting that i originally bought off the shelf 24/22 whiteline bars and with the 2 hole adjustment they came with i was not able to dial out understeer with the rear on hard and the front on soft. I ended up buying a 24mm rear which i set on soft and set the front 24mm bar to hard. It was fairly neutral after that. I'd say 27/22 would be horrible. The first corner you come to will have you plow understeering at even moderate speeds.

It may also be worth checking for splits or holes on your intercooler hoses. I've seen a few cars lately (including mine) which have hole joiners one way or another but still drive reasonably ok

99% certain they are the same. Never measured one up but i just can't see nissan changing when they have used the same sized input shafts on every box i've ever looked at. It's an easy enough thing to measure even with the clutch bolted to the flywheel as you can still access it.

it should be about 4mm in

silly question, but did you align the splines on the plates or did you just use one of those universal alignment tools that doesn't have splines? 2cm suggests you aren't thought the splines yet. Can i suggest removing and checking that the clutch hasn't been damaged with all the force being put on it? While you've got it off you should be able to easily dummy up the box and confirm that the spigot fits (if it's the original bush it will fit, rb26 gearbox spigots are not smaller than rb25)

if you haven't disconnected the slave cylinder then there's no reason you'd need to bleed the fluid to make it work. The ABS light has nothing to do with clutch operation. It may be because the wheels are off the ground. Climb under the car, take the slave off the box and check that the fork is attached properly. Pull the boot off and get a torch and make sure when you move the fork around the carrier is moving properly. Chuck the slave back on and get a mate to push the pedal while you are watching the carrier and see if it is engaging. If it all seems to be working properly you may just need to adjust the clutch at the pedal to get a bit more travel.

not necessarily, provided your lift pump can flow as much fuel against (effectively) zero pressure as the main pump can flow at 2.5bar plus. Regardless, i've run my surge tank exactly as you have described with no issues for the last year and a half, primarily because i couldn't be stuffed adding a fitting to the stock tank for a return. I've only done up to about 15 minutes flat out before having to give the tyres a cool down, but if your talking about a lap dash special then thats about the worst it will get. Unless you're running multiple 044's i can't see an issue with fuel temp. It's not like you have the same fuel sitting in the surge tank getting hotter and hotter as it keeps getting pushed through the engine bay. There is an overflow and there is fresh (cool) fuel from the tank getting pumped in.

Hi Matt, The engine has stock cams back in it now. no turbo, coils and i'm struggling to put 6 stock injectors together but i have the rail. I'll have to have another dig through my stuff tomorrow and try and find another couple of injectors. Yep, dented sump but i have a straight one here which will be supplied with the engine. I'll have to talk to a freight company about shipping. The engine as it sits has to weigh over 250kg's easily so i can't see it being cheap

HKS cams are out, they look like they have never been in an engine They have done about 15k. I found a stock exhaust cam gear so the adjustable gear is also included for $650 pick up as stated above. cheers, Dave

hi mate, I don't know the age of the coilovers, bought them second hand myself about 18 months ago and have done under 10k on them since. No leaks, happy to post but i expect postage will be in the order of $60 from past experience Send me a pm and we can talk about price. cheers Dave

pm berserk32 or something like that (assuming he has spelled it right). Or go into the motorsport section under drift and drag and you'll find a thread on his build up

If you don't have misfire issues you don't need either

try hardy spicer. They have a branch in brisvegas. I got my custom shaft through them (in sydney) so they will be able to supply the yoke, mod and balance your tailshaft to suit. Cheers Dave