BHDave

It's more like 1100 and 5500 from factory. I've messed about with the cutout point and found a few rwkw in the midrange by dropping it to 4500. Tried 4, no change. This is with a 256/264 cam combo, hks exhaust manifold blah blah. It was only rev based. And this is also only WOT peak power runs.

probably HR's if you still have screw type height adjustment, maybe nr's if it's circlip (though these aren't that harsh)

Thats real nice, we're already reverting to name calling You said What?, TD05H-20G AND TD06-20G turbo's are very common on Skylines. I said What?, TD05H-20G AND TD06-20G made by mitsubishi with garrett style exhaust housings? That must make them mitsu manufactured garretts! How was your comment relevant? Other than to point out that mitsubishi do manufacture T3 flanged turbos in the same way that garrett manufacture oddballs, yet we dont call a t3 flanged TD05 a GT2871 and we dont call a TD06 a GT30. That was my point. So i will say it again, just so that i can make a bigger ass of myself as you put it. I'll even put it in capitals. GARRETT DO NOT MAKE TD04'S. MITSUBISHI MAKE TD04'S The turbo pictured is a T25 with oddball housings (and core for that matter).

You were right nismod, garrett didn't make any TD turbos, They made garrett turbos with oddball housings to suit mitsu flanges. The TD description cannot be applied to a garrett turbo as it describes a mitsu turbo http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=BCS hmmmmmm.......this looks like your turbo silman and the product description says t28. I also know that the comp wheel on your turbo is definately old 25 styles and looks very similar to the plain bearing sr turbos of the 90's. What?, TD05H-20G AND TD06-20G made by mitsubishi with garrett style exhaust housings? That must make them mitsu manufactured garretts!

you won't get them on the front. 8.5 +30 will just fit. the rears around +35-40 in 9.5 is ok

Yeah, both front and rear uni's look to be beefier than the ones on the 33 tail shaft. Rear one is rebuildable, front one isn't. If you think 575 was pricey, I was quoted up to $1200 from other places. I have a 33 speedo drive which i have adapted to the back of a 32 speedo face, in the process of jury rigging it atm to see if i can get it working before hacking up the back of the dash. If i cant get it, then the navara drive goes in. Only concern then is physically fitting the cable up to the drive as there isn't much space in there.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=rb25+r32 One of the best write up's you'll find on the subject. Search for "r32 rb25" and you'll find most of the others

rears would be just about spot on. some grinding of the hicas tie rod end may be required and i hope you don't have excessive camber or the top will foul on the coil over front i think you'll struggle. probably need a spacer of some sort or the inside edge will foul on stuff. and then they'll stick out of the guards.

Without knowing whitelines spring rates, that surprises me. 4kg/mm is only about 220lb/in which i doubt is much higher than what whiteline would run in their spring/shock combo. On the same line of thinking you'd ideally need to reduce the size of both the front and rear bars in order to maintain a balance, otherwise you'll find that the car will just want to understeer with the big front bar and small rear, no matter how much you adjust it.

sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but i had to sit the turbo in the gap, then put the manifold on loosely, then get the turbo on the manifold, and then tighten everything up. r33 is probably different though. I know the engine mount is different. On the up side. Hoses can be relocated I know i moved pretty much all of my power steering lines (and the reservoir) to clear the turbo.

understeer less. bit more front body roll, bit more front end grip. It should bring it back closer to neutral. I'm basing this on the assumption that your car generally tends to understeer on corner entry and mid corner but the over steer you mentioned has more to do with throttle application while turning (power oversteer). It's your money..... I think i'm tops, do you? I initially thought mine didn't like the 22 mm rear bar due to the super streets i had running a 4/5 spring rate (though if anything that should mean i could use a softer rear). It turns out that even with the silly hard cusco's it likes the same settings. On slow corners it will put the arse out on turn in if you are aggressive on the steering wheel (It did this even with the clapped out viscous) but on medium and fast corners it is happy just to stick with maybe a hint of over on exit if you nail the throttle too hard. It's a pretty good set up i think.

Just adding to the knowledge base while the info is fresh in my mind (still haven't done the speedo or wiring but box is in and bolted up) I went for a 1 piece tail shaft from hardie spicer. set me back $575. If you can get the front half of a 33 shaft the uni is the right size to bolt up to the diff and obviously the yoke is right so it's good for a sample. I measured from end of the output shaft on the 25 box when it was bolted up to the diff flange and it's 1275mm (this is for a non abs car). As Bl4cK32 has stated elsewhere, you can get a shaft made up at the same length as the original manual tailshaft and it'll work fine as there's bugger all difference between the lengths but if you want to be pedantic..... I also had to bend the top of the transmission tunnel up a bit to clear the top of the box. Theres a brace that runs around the tunnel about 100mm forward of the shifter hole that fouled on the top of my box. A jack and bit of 1 inch square section steel fixed that. Crossmember was as stated earlier in this thread. Welded a couple of 50mm wide straps to the rb25 crossmember (it was the same as the 20 one as far as i could tell) and drilled some new holes about 50mm further forward. I had to grind a few mm off the inside edge of one side as it fouled on the box otherwise. Thrust bearing is the same size between the 2 boxes, I didn't think to check if the carriers or clutch fork were the same. And lastly, some of the bell housing bolt lengths were different. I used a combination of the existing bell housing bolts and old slave cylinder bolts and ended up one short, which i am yet to replace. It's one of the bottom ones so easy to get to when i do wiring. I'll update on the success or failure of the speedo conversion

ah, i have 24 front and rear with similar spring rates to you, possibly a bit higher knowing cuscos spring preferences. I really think the 27 would just make my car an understeering pig again due to lack of adjustment. Front set on hard, rear on soft (which is probably medium on a 3 hole bar) I have the newer 2 hole adjustable type ones that whiteline offer these days that seem to keep the factory front link at a reasonable angle simply by reducing the range of adjustability. I think that with the 3 hole type ones on the front you really need the front link that used to be part of the kit when they still had the old blue selbys bars. Though obviously you make more money by selling at the same price with less stuff in the kit, and even more when the buyer has to buy another bar entirely to get the cars handling balanced.

Hi guys, I'm in the process of organizing a skid pan day through Ian Luff's Motivation out at Oran park and just wanted to see if anyone was interested. The day will be modeled on the stage 2 course offered by Motivation seen here http://www.ianluff.com.au/driving.asp?pageid=4 Basic details so far (until i get a proper itinerary); Limit of 20 cars to maximize track time (this is half the normal amount for one of these days) $220 a head (this is still $60 less than the regular stage 2 day) 8:30 meet up, with cars on track by 9:30. Finish time of 4:30 I have already paid a deposit to confirm the day so this thing is going ahead no matter what. I have 12 spots left to fill at this stage. If you have any questions please ask and i'll do my best to answer. If you want to be involved please pm me for account details. Cheers Dave

If he hardens the front bar he'll get more under. Same in your case chris, if you tighten the front you will get more understeer aswell, so i'd soften the front. I found that i could get good higher speed slides (top of second) on the ec skid pan a while back even though my car was an understeery pig in the dry. It was useless at the slower stuff but that could have been the driver simon, I found that the whiteline base swaybars didn't have enough adjustment to get neutral handling, so i had to upgrade the rear to a 24mm (32gtst)

No. It's in the tee, not in the bleed section. You may need to adjust the controller to get boost back where you want it but the dual stage still works fine.

turbosmart does it again! Ok, the problem is in the tee of the boost controller. It has a small ball bearing and spring in there which acts as a one way valve when you have it set on the low boost setting. So what happens is it works once and brings boost on, and then it prevents the pressure escaping from the actuator and holds the wastegate flap open, so no boost. It does leak slowly back to normal which is why it works again after 5 minutes or so. So, the fix. Remove the spring and ball from the tee. One of the nipples on the tee is threaded and can be unscrewed and the ball and spring removed. And problem solved!

On an s1 rb25 you are paying for the extra lift and duration on the exhaust side. Or you can rip the head off and get bigger exhaust valves put in and use tomei's which don't offer anything other than a 256 for an s1 engine. Id recommend hks 256/264 from experience with an otherwise internally stock engine. I initially went from 238-268rwkw with no other changes by installing these cams with a similar size turbo to yours. I'm now making 288rwkw just from freeing up the exhaust some more after the turbo.

Twins typically require a shorter thrust bearing carrier. I'd say that's your problem.

Well atleast this shows people are happy with their tuners I'm also a unigroup fan. I've been going there for years.

Money on the dual stage boost controller, I'm assuming turbosmart. Set it on high and i bet it works properly. If it does I'll explain the fix.

As you mentioned the belt is tensioned up i'd suggest your's is a bit old and hard and needs to be replaced. The squeal stopped as you removed the load from the alternator by unplugging it so it just spun freely.

Depends on the model of t28 as thats a pretty generic term. 2535 has been proven to make 235-240rwkw, Only the bigger t28's will make more, 2871 and up. physically, they are about the same size, but again depends on the compressor and comp cover chosen

Agreed. Could you have made that harder to read bob? Sell the 33 engine and get a 34 one. Once you see the prices they go for, you'll probably see why it's worth selling your NA and getting a turbo model outright

In all honesty i don't see the need for a $500 jack. Thats money that can be better spent elsewhere. A small cheapie 1T capable jack and some stands is more than enough for basic servicing, and just about anything else you want to do under the car. As it's small you can fit it under the car even if it's pretty low and you don't need a lot of space for the long handles alot of the race type jacks have (any one with a small single car garage will know what i'm talking about here) The only time it's not up to the task is if you want the get the car up high enough to swap a gear box. Ramps or a bigger jack and more space is needed then.