BHDave

hey! edit doesn't work. I think you may need 6R8

tek makes a good point. I just checked the jaycar site and yep, 68R = 68ohm.

The annoying thing is i used to live 5 minutes from there

I know it sounds simple, but; Have you chucked the stock ecu back in and tried it? With a z32 and bigger injectors on stock ecu it will still fire, possibly even run (badly). You should probably confirm that your afm wiring is correct aswell. You've changed, injectors, ecu and afm. You haven't checked anything but injectors from what i've read. Oh, and if it's a daughter board, check that it hasn't slipped out of the socket. Seen it happen on s13's.

I have to throw this out there guys; what are the chances of 2 turbos shitting themselves at exactly the same time while tooling around in traffic? If you still had one turbo, you'd still make some boost so we really are talking the car equivalent of stigmata here.

2835 would go close. from your original choices: Gtrs too small, 3540 too big, to4r too big. Garrett based turbos would see the 3071 go close (same basic turbo as the 2835 but un cropped gt30 exhaust wheel) or the 3076 do it easily with a bit of lag. 2835 wouldn't be able to use a 1 peice dump to suit the stock turbo, neither would and internal gated garrett.

Some sizes aren't available in the 615's yet aswell so there are still some 215's available to fill the holes in the line up. Nothing between a 225 and 255 in the 17inch range to fit a skyline anyway. Where the hell did you get 615's quoted for 220? I want to go there as best ive gotten for 225 45 17's is about $335

If you were after an rb25 example i meet all those criteria. 30rwkw gain with no other changes.

With the roller bearings you really should get an oil seal ring for it as well. Mazda do it that way. Ive had one fall apart and go all through the clutch when a workshop that won't be named put a 13bt in my rx7. they didn't put a seal in, 20k later bearing ran dry and died and i drove home with the clutch stuck half way (lots of slip). That was the day i found they'd installed an 8 inch plate instead of an 8.5 as well

It's possible the shocks are on the way out but hard to diagnose without driving the car. Is there damper adjustment and it's just set too low?

It's not ecu controlled, it's a got a thermal thingy for opening up on cold start. I removed it on my rb20 after one of the pipes to it split. All it does is open up when the car is cold and progressively close as it heats up. Mine would stall when returning to idle during the first 3 minutes of running with the stock ecu, then no probs after that.

Even back pressure in NA cars is a myth. It has been proven that the gains in NA exhausts are made in the headers. Biggest pipe possible after that with the compromise being the noise. In this case. Chuck the 4 inch on, nothing to lose. If you don't like the noise then swap for a 3 inch. You may end up smack in the middle of the rich and retard mapping as a result with either a 4 inch or 3 inch though In bigcarls example I think you'll find there are gains to be had by going bigger, though it's not necessary by any stretch.

I'm running a cheapy 75mm core for my 288rwkw. I think the 100mm will be a bit harder to mount behind the reo and keep stealth. I've been thinking about the 100mm jj core with the better end tanks though as i think there will be some gain from the tanks if nothing else.

Probably a bit late now, but i found that once you get one side off, remove all the shims on that side to get yourself a decent grip on the rack itself with an open ended spanner or really big shifter. Rotate it until the spanner jams on the subframe or ground and then have another go at removing the other tie rod.

When you swapped the injectors the problem stayed in cylinder 1? Then you have a wiring issue. Probably a short to earth in the injector 1 trigger somewhere.

They are a progressive rate spring so i am a little surprised about your comments on the ride quality. The rear may not be though so i can't comment there. Aftermarket springs on stock shocks is never the best idea from a performance point of view. I'd suggest a decent set of stock replacement aftermarket shocks. I'm surprised no one has told you to to buy everything listed in the sydneykid group buy yet. Check with sydneykid to see if the bilsteins offered will be compatible with your springs, you get the added advantage of circlip height adjustment with these shocks too.

In that case all you need to do is jack the car up and back off all the wheel nuts and retighten progressively in a star pattern to center it properly. Done and done. Shit, if i can fit non hubcentric wheels without steering shudder issues, anyone can. The wheel nuts are conical for a reason people, it's so they match the cone shaped indent in the wheel and center themselves. Start semi related rant: Just on a side note; has anyone else noticed the number of people jumping on the hubcentric band wagon in the last year or so? About 1 in 4 sets of aftermarket rims i see on skylines and silvias match the nissan hub, no balance issues. The majority of jap bolt on spacers don't have the hub on the outside, mine do and were a press fit. From a purely functional point of view, is any one really dumb enough to believe that if you can slip the wheel over the 10mm long knob on the hub (we're not talking press fit here) that the studs won't be taking the load? End rant....

all disadvantages IMHO. less midrange torque, then you have the lovely combo of high boost and high revs for only 1200 rpm or so, not worth it. You end up with less average power. Run more through the midrange, less at the top (if you really want to step the boost), It will increase your average power and make for a quicker all round car.

You need to maintain a little clearance. Cant remember the figures from nissan off the top of my head. You also need to check the contact point. There's a fair bit of info floating around if you google for backlash or differential clearance and that sort of stuff.

depends if you think 55 is a big number. No scarier than driving an old shitter around twisty stuff at the speed limit unless you do something stupid like plant it on corner exit and expect it to stick.

rear is a piece of cake to get to, just jack up the back and you're away. Front requires removal of the wheels to get at the links easily (atleast in a 32) and it can be a little awkward getting the link in and out of the bar. As the baron has eluded to, you'll probably find the car under steers with both bars at soft initially and so you will be tightening the rear up.

If your relocation block already uses earls fittings then maintain the same size hose, remove the one running from the outside at the filter end to outside on the block and keep the inner as is. You want to run the other hose from the block end to the cooler and then from the cooler back to the filter. Personally, I'd buy a core and mount it, then use something like a garden hose or heater hose to get a measurement once you run it where you want it. It will also give you a better idea of the angles you need for the fittings. Obviously fittings will need to match the hose size and threads of your core and filter mount. Decide where you want to mount the core first as that will determine your maximum size and go from there. If you get a big one (id class adrianos as big) for mounting between the radiator and intercooler then a thermostat is a good idea. If you have a smaller core that mounts in front of the wheel in the quarter panel you can get away without a thermostat. As for sensor mounts, i'd assume it has some on the relocation block atleast, if not the block adapter. You can always have it drilled and tapped to suit assuming there is enough meat there, or have a block made up to mount inline.

SOLD!

I'd start with soft/soft on the sway bars and work from there. If it under steers, tighten the rear. If it over steers tighten the front. If you have a gtst then I'd go for as much caster as you can get without the tyres scrubbing when you turn the wheel. I go even side to side with no ill effects on the street.

Interesting that cusco look to have gone the press in route rather than an outer with integral thread. Not that there was anything wrong with their old caster rods, mine are still good after 4 years and they were very second hand when i got them.