BHDave

combination of old soft rubber bushes front and a flogged out tierod ball joint (or tierod end) rear. If you remove the rubber boot on the end of the hicas rack and get someone to move the wheel for you it's pretty obvious if the ball joint is shagged. Any movement = borked

Yes, it's obviously teh suck.

Assuming your wheel nuts are seating against the rim properly i'd say the rims just have a very thick centre section. How deep are your wheel nuts? And how much thread is being taken up by the nut? If it's less than about 10mm consider longer studs.

Most of your original power steering hoses will be perished and leaking to some extent by now. I found the first to go was the main line between the reservoir and the powersteering pump. Most of the high pressure side is in steel so isn't likely to just spring a leak.

As bad as the champiros are (i had a set on the back of my gtst) they didn't cause this sort of problem in my car in the wet. Yes, grip was non existant, but they didn't grip then suddenly let go in the wet, they just never had any significant grip from turn in to corner exit. When grandma driving they were fine. Second problem with them is that my car did a fair job of tearing the tread blocks off on the dyno. The inner edge of both tyres were riddled with tears when i removed them recently.

By the time you pay to strip them down to do the work to the base wouldn't it be cheaper to sell them and get some new ones?

Agreed, type hc+ pad and scr pro rotors are fantastic on my car. ok when cold, fantastic when warm, very confidence inspiring. And r32gtr rotors are available too

I actually gained 14rwkw going from a shagged res to a full bodied muffler and the car wasn't as loud or droney on cruise or idle. Both were 3.5 straight through. I reckon i have a muffler sitting at home thats bigger than your one cubes I remember bending the heat sheilds to fit it in

It's neither of those Though on the upside, you can't hear the clicking over the mechanical diff. I tend to think it's the cv's as it's about the only thing left on mine that hasn't been changed

Not yet, though i did put in a bit of effort to make some room around the comp housing.

Are you specifically stating that the profec B 2 is a spiking machine, or making a general across the board statement re boost controllers being unable to bring boost on without spiking when the boost is set higher than the spring rate?

If you saw it in person you wouldn't be impressed. Its pretty rusty, got handled alot when trial fitting with very grotty hands, had oil spilled on it (and burned off) when doing cams, no paint. The back half is covered by a heat shield now so that tidies it up a bit.

? I realize it's an hks manifold. What do you think mine is? Image seems to be working now.

It was more the clearance off the engine mount i was referring to. My comp cover sits really tight up against it so that i had to remove the thin metal shield piece, grind off the top of the engine mount and "reshape" the bit of the crossmember directly underneath the mount. I had rb20 silver top engine mounts too (though attached to a 25). re piping ideas; mine at the tacked together stage. Inlet was 2 90 degree 3 inch bends (both were cut part way round the bend though), outlet was just a straight 2.5 inch with a 90 bend at the end going through one of the stock holes in the body. There was no way i was going to get the outlet in with the stock ps reservoir there so it got relocated to the back corner. That gave me enough room to fit the type R bov in there later on and recirc it.

Quick question; Is that an rb30 block? Because you have way more room than i did down there with the same size comp cover. My oil drain is a few degrees off vertical as by the time you install a 90 degree fitting off the top of the turbo you don't have enough room to sit it up straight (atleast not on my old plain bearing turbo anyway) and maintain some clearance to the manifold. I see power steering hose fun in your future

ouch. 4 of them! Didn't see that coming. regarding the rebuild; spend the money on rods and pistons now and maybe valve springs and head studs if you intend to run upwards of 20psi in the future. For supply, talk to CRD or Just Jap who are forum sonsors, http://www.hioctaneracing.com.au/ do online sales. Proengines on the forums has done rebuilds for a few members

got one. Thanks for all the offers.

I picked it up at supercheap one day when i was wandering around the isles trying to remember what i went there to get. It's acl race, GTRxxx part number. It's actually in a head gasket packet. It seems to do the job, It's noticably cooler under the bonnet when lifting the hood after a drive. The exhaust pipes were wrapped at the same time though. And none of the rubber hoses have melted yet

Are the rev's displayed at the bottom accurate? Assuming they are a bit out you may benefit from messing with the VCT switch off point to remove the dip in the power. Atleast you know it's got nothing to do with the af ratio.

The RB20/25 style ones bolt straight up to the manifold with the 5mm spacer/piston seat in between. I'll get a pic for you later on of mine when i get home from work. Sorry, the heat shield makes it a bit difficult to make out. As you can see though, there's a heap of space if you do decide to make an adapter to fit another type of gate. If you raise it though it would be worth angling the gate towards the back of the car to make it easier to get a pipe off it

It's been removed obviously. I'd say the previous owner had a boost controller in there and removed it before selling (the screw in the hose is a bit of a giveaway). You'll probably find the actuator is now directly connected to the boost signal (same as a 32gtst). And that means you are running less than stock boost. Time for a bleed or an ebc

Forget the dash mounted A/F gauge, unless you are spending reasonable dollars for a proper wide band type you are only guessing. For less than $100 you should put it on the dyno and see what is really happening at that point. You will get a more stable result by removing the factory controller (which you have done). Id suggest that the boost hit is either causing the car to richen up due to R & R or lean out due to dead fuel pump, or maybe even old coils having a cry. As a first step though, gap your sparkplugs down to about .9mm and see if it improves.

do you have a link where anyone has done a direct comparison with say a .63 vs the .78 twin scroll? I've looked at it a few times and wondered how it would perform on my hks manifold with a 56 trim 3071

Been there, done that. Not fun. Having 2 people to remove it helps, one holds the hose and the other yanks on the metal line. For install of braided lines atleast you can bend the rubber hose up and fit the barbed end of the braided line, then feed the other end of the line back around the back of the head.

I have project mu scl pro's on my 32gtst with gtt front brakes. Cost me 1k from mu secret in kensington (sydney). They're a nice bit of kit and haven't let me down yet.