BHDave

Do it. I've seen them squeeze out 220 on cammed SR's. Even if you only get a couple of hundred the bottom end and midrange improvement will be well worth it. I almost bought one 4 years ago, got a highflow instead. I regretted not getting it right up until the rb25 went in.

I've found that pretty much every just jap or xforce product has had a die grinder taken to all the internal welds so that the thing looks tidy. It prabably costs a dollar to do this in china, but it leaves a good impression. If i were you lazy bastard, that thing would have been sent back. I've done better work myself and i suck at welding. Oh, I also weld the inside of exhaust flanges rather than the outside (other than a few tacks) It just gives a tidier result i think and you can clean it up easily enough and your flange doesn't warp.

Yep, you've pinged it to death and as mafia has stated, it's probably a ring land in number 3. The headgasket and studs are good for a lot more than 16psi so i doubt it's at fault.

It goes to your stock map sensor. It only runs the gauge so you can just block it if you are that way inclined.

I suppose anything is doable with enough know how and money. What you are proposing re big and small cam isn't how the nissan system works though, all it does is advance and retard the inlet cam there by reducing/increasing the overlap. You would have the added complication of having to run the cas off something other than the normal drive on the end of the exhaust cam as 1) it will be blocked by a vct gear now, and 2) you cant drive it off the cam anymore anyway as that is moving around, you'd need to drive it of the outside of the gear which would stay constant in relation to the crank. Second consideration; by the time you do all this and spend the money, the guy who put in cams for $1k will still make more power pretty much everywhere with very little effect on idle quality, fuel economy....well that's a different story if your system is set up right. So by the time you remove and machine the head to accept a second solenoid and give oil a way to get into the cam gear, get an oil feed up to it, get a second inlet cam to replace your stock exhaust cam as well as the new vct gear, then a couple of controllers, head gasket, etc i figure you will be up over 1k already not including any labour, a couple of weeks of down time for the car, yadda yadda, vs the drop in cam option, drive in drive out in under a day for less money ex labour (which will be significantly less too) and then the tune for each. Not worth it for me.

Stiffen the rear bar up a touch. I noticed very little difference in ride quality when mucking around with bar settings though to be honest i was more interested in how the car went through corners than any increased harshness in ride.

Whats so shit about the 20 box? They are under rated IMHO. For the 25 box install, you need a custom tailshaft thats about the length of the 20 shaft but with a 25 yoke to suit the gearbox output shaft. Measure it on the car to be sure you have the lengths right. You need to muck around with speedo drives and there's a bit of playing around with the crossmember. There are a fair few threads floating around covering this topic with a fair bit of detail on speedo drive conversions and tailshafts.

On a side note; I had been thinking about raising the the hicas rack position to reduce bump steer in a similar way to whats shown on the gibson car in the photo. Looks like i was about 17 years too late for my idea to be original

I just took to the back of them with a big screwdriver and a hammer. Some pop out pretty easily, some take a bit more effort.

Obvious answer. redo your pipe work, your's is dodgy. You have 2 extra joints in that photo alone. Unless you are running 20+ psi of boost heavy duty clamps are not needed, worm drive clamps are sufficient. I'd suggest that as your engine rocks it is putting strain on the pipe and pulling it off, or you don't have a lip on your piping and it is being blown off under boost.

Whether you fix it or not, put it on the dyno and identify the problem. Did you really expect it to run properly with no tuning though?

1) Typically people are referring to boost at the plenum as thats where most of us are getting our boost signal from. It would have to be a pretty ordinary intercooler and piping to have a pressure drop of more than .5 psi at the sort of power we are talking about here. 12-14psi is what most people will say is a good idea to maintain any sort of reasonable lifespan. 2) Turbo life is a lot longer than 60,000km's these days, some of the current crop of factory bb turbos will see well over that if left alone and fed good clean oil. I'd be surprised to discover more than a handful of people who have had to replace a stock turbo before 100k as it's just gotten old rather than it's been over boosted or the engine has been maintained poorly. My car had 100k on it when i bought it and the turbo lasted another 60k. I started modding almost immediately after buying it and had boost up to 16psi on occassion. It didn't spit the wheel out the exhaust, it just got noisey in the end so i replaced it. 3) Couldn't tell you, but consider a stock 33 gtst is up near 1.4 tonnes and makes about 130rwkw give or take. It's not going to accelerate particularly hard once your out of the first couple of gears. Add an intercooler, exhaust and boost with say an safc and get your self up around 180-190rwkw and it's a different story.

if it's started to come out you can drill a couple of small holes either side of the easy out and use a pair of cir clip pliers to unscrew it the rest of the way. If no good, call a professional as you have buckleys of drilling through the easy out with a regular drill bit.

yes

I'd go the 5mm slip on's from just jap as they have correctly spaced holes rather than slots so won't slip off center and cause balance issues like some of the dodgier ones around.

Sounds like it's in the thick bit of the tyre. It should be fine. Sticking the bit back in won't add any strength, it'll be more of an aesthetic thing.

It depends how deep it is really. The side wall is pretty tough and you can get away with a bit of damage. Also consider that the side wall is typically a bit thicker near the rim if you have the little rim protector strip. I've taken a chunk out in a similar situation with no ill effects If it was punctured then it'd be bin time. you can see where the tyre was damaged bottom right. This tyre lasted another 2 years and about 60,000km's

r32 gtst, whiteline 24mm front, 24mm rear (tried 22mm rear prior to the 24 and the mid corner understeer was terrible)

Mine's plumbed in. 3 inch off turbo to cat. 2 inch off 38mm gate to cat. 5 inch metal cat. 3.5 inch cat back. good for 288rwkw so far. I can't give a true back to back plumbed vs atmo vented as i had the metal cat installed at the same time i had it all plumbed up. I also had it all done pre tune and pre cams when the car was making a touch over 200rwkw on 1 bar.

you should get firefox. It spell checks for you Seeing as we are now talking about sway bars, I'd have to agree that of everything i've done it has made the biggest diffence to the cornering of my car (with the possible exception of running semi slicks)

I run 20mm bolt on spacers on the front no problems. hubcentric aswell. There is nothing wrong with spacers as a concept, it comes down to the quality of the thing as to whether it holds up in the end though. My curent wheels actually come with a 15mm spacer that bolts on the back of the wheel. Trouble is that you need longer wheel studs to do it that way so i just binned it in favour of the bolt on 20mm.

Hi guys, In pursuit of silliness I'm having a go at getting an electronic speedo working in my 32 rather than muck around with cable drives when i do the r33 box conversion. I'm only after the speedo drive part, as long as it works the rest can be scratched up, in bits whatever. If in Sydney i can pick up, otherwise happy to pay post. cheers Dave

Thats ok mate. I'm only after a set for a 32gtst, not a gtr I'll have a chat with them in the meantime. cheers Dave

Who's the aus distributor for moonface? I like the look of that stuff as i have already gone to the trouble of replacing all my rubber bushes in the suspension arms and don't want to go the next step of full adjustable arms.

Does anyone have any pics of some of these things mounted? I just can't get my head around how they'd fit