BHDave

Over 300 on stock internals isn't uncommon. It's just uncommon to see them last more than 6 months.

from personal experience over the last few years; 1) Not that i've noticed 2) Not that i've noticed 3) Not that i've noticed Turbo 1, GCG highflow, on for about a year with 14 psi running through it no bov. removed it and it was perfect. No thrust movement, the usual minimal side to side movement. Turbo 2, HKS t300s, been on for about 18 months now. originally ran 20psi and no bov. checked occasionally for thrust and lateral movement. nothing worth mentioning. I now run a type R bov recirced and that doesn't open unless I'm running more than 1bar. Checked the turbo again about a month ago, still fine. The only problem you'll run into if you don't put a BOV on is stalling when pulling up if you have a very short, small capacity, inlet pipe.

Too many unknowns. Which version highflow for a start. On stock cams at that boost maybe 220. with cams maybe 240. 250 with one of the bigger versions.

I'd say caster as well. You maintain your static camber so no tram lining or reduced contact patch under braking and increase your dynamic camber when cornering. It's win-win

Probably not as the wheel itself is so big. You can get away with it on 17's, maybe 18's, dunno about 19's, it would depend how low your car is i suppose. You can always try some wheels out to get a better idea.

It'd go close. With a +40 on the front you may run into issues with the inside edge scrubbing on the inner guard or possibly the upright. +30 with 17*8.5 works well on the front of mine. The rear would probably fit, but i just can't see those tyres fitting under the stock guard. +40 will put the inside edge of the rear rim pretty close to the the hicas balljoint and the front of the lower control arm. Depending on the camber it will also be very close to the struts/coils of your coil overs.

If you use the ac clutch power the thermo will only switch on when the AC is on. As you are wiring it in with a thermo switch i assume you want it to regulate engine temp, rather than just act as an ac fan. There are a heap of ignition sources in the fuse box, anything that turns on with ignition like fuel pump for example will have to have either a triggered positive or negative wire running to a pin. The diagram up top is correct as far as i can see. The thermo switch is the trigger for the relay so it's inline between the power source and the relay. 85 is earthed so when the temp gets up to the set level of the switch it will trip the relay and provide power to pin 87 turning on the fan. Easy test is to short pin 86 straight to the battery and see if the fan starts. If it doesn't turn on your problem is something else.

Thats what i've found with the rest of my suspension bushes. I don't have a press and couldn't budge any of the stock bushes with a bench vice and dies, but pressing new ones in with the vice was a piece of cake. Except the front upper control arm bushes. Hammer and screwdriver got them out easily enough

The nissan part number has disappeared but the bearing part number is NTN TU0808-1 Any bearing place should be able to get it for you with that number. cheers Dave

No chance. Your fronts would need to be widened a touch unless you want to run silly camber and rear guards would need to be pumped a good 20mm each side (educated guess) depending on the height of the car

If you want to argue i can refer to the same book and point out that the TAG f1 engine integrates the wastegate before the turbine inlet, as does every recent LMGT engine i have seen photos of. LMGT engines are arguable at the fore front of turbo engine development now, not 20 years ago. As i said in the first place, not ideal but it works.

lol. I found after i locked the hicas i'd chuck the car into a corner and the arse end would still passively steer I think the 2 way will be giving the bushes a very hard time. All the loading and unloading (which would effectively be twisting/releasing the subframe), both wheels trying to travel at the same speed on accel and decel will probably twist the subframe on fast cornering aswell, so effective passive rear steering.

It's not an ideal solution but there are enough cars out there running this type of setup that you can be fairly sure it'll work to some extent. I think you'd really want to get the outlet as close as possible to the exhaust housing inlet flange where the cross section is largest and it is less likely to completely stuff up the gas flow into the turbine.

Thanks for all the info. It's handy to know that hardy spicer will do alloy ones as i had one done for my rx7 by them years ago and was probably going to go back there again for a quote atleast. Some of the prices i've gotten from places close to work for a regular old steel one are over double what i paid for the last one.

Hmm, you make an interesting point about an alloy shaft. I hadn't even considered that to be honest. May have to make some inquiries in that direction. cheers

price drop to $1000, not negotiable. If they don't sell at this price i'll be keeping them.

front or rear? I have a spare r32gtst front floating around here somewhere that i can grab a number off if you need it.

Hi guys, I'll be swapping to an rb25 gear box shortly and i am considering a one piece tail shaft seeing as i will need to get a custom front half done anyway. I know all about drive shaft angles and such, but as far as i can see the stock 2 piece shaft looks to run pretty straight. I suppose the other concern is the 200k old centre bearing carrier deflecting under load as my rb25 is putting out 280odd rwkw with lots of midrange pull. Is there any feedback on one piece shafts in gtst's, i have found giant's comments on the one piece carbon vs 2 piece stocker in a gtr, but not much on gtst's which are a touch longer. anyone? cheers Dave

The pedal issue is likely due to one of your brake pads dragging and heating/pressurising the fluid until they all start to drag. Thats why it's a prick to pull away. Just be carefull be cause the fluid will boil eventually and then you will have no brakes all of a sudden. Jack the car up and rotate each wheel to find which corner the problem is on and go from there. Fix brakes first as they can kill you, then worry about the missfire.

Back off the handbrake adjustment in the cabin, and then disconnect the cable at the balance bar which sits infront and above the diff housing. You may just have too much tension on the handbrake so its holding the pads on.

125 for a set of subframe lock collars. Install them yourself with a jack and a pair of stands. http://www.driftshop.com.au/suspension.htm about half way down

I've had the same problem in the past and found that by replacing everything it fixed the problem. If you replace everything your should eliminate the problem aswell About all you have left to do is the bushes anyway. Project D upper arms cleared both my cuscos and teins. They are modelled on cuscos so i assume a cusco one will fit too. I haven't heard of anyone having problems with fitting any of the jap (or copy)adjustable upper arms. Anyway, enough banging on. What height do you have your car set at and what are the alignment settings on the rear end (camber and toe). What tyres are on there?

Thats intersting, it's usually the hks cams that get bagged for snapping. On the cam caps idea, They're numbered so easy enough to check

Less initial bite once bedded in but increased resistance to fade when you are having a go. I had them in my r32 for a fair while for daily driving duties and never had any issue with stopping quickly if required. I found they did eventually start to feel a bit ordinary once very hot but they still pulled the car up well, just not confidence inspiring. They are a good all rounder and good value for money.

Do a search for posts by carl h He runs an rb25 pfc on an rb20 in the US and had to swap a couple of pins around (either injectors or ignition, can't remember)