Jump to content
SAU Community

BHDave

Members
  • Posts

    2,805
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by BHDave

  1. were they obviously fouling on anything? It's a long shot but did you check the diameter of the new cam where it sits in the head compared to the stocker?
  2. For that price they should offer after sales support. Take it back. Get them to drive it and point out what you aren't happy with. As for the peak power, it's only part of the equation, was the 162 on another dyno or the same one? They don't necessarily read equal. 145 is pretty low, but without a decent intercooler it could have been heat soaked to buggery when the last power run was made. And with that economy you should make sure they have the closed loop control on. Your O2 sensor could be on the way out but i doubt it
  3. You have to check that there's sufficient clearance in the block for the longer throw crank and the big ends of the rods, so maybe a bit of machining there (some one will have to confirm as i haven't dummied one up to check). As you'd probably put in new pistons anyway it's just a matter of machining the bore to suit the new pistons (assuming .5 oversize).
  4. lol, banana peels in the diff housing is another one. Shit 900 for a reco? I just picked up an unused nismo 1.5 way for that which comes with new bearings and output shafts and seals in addition to the center. It was a very lucky find as i only started looking for one a week ago.
  5. 26 rods and crank and pistons will do it. Same deck height and rod length remember. 25 pistons on 26 rod and crank would be sitting proud of the block at TDC
  6. It comes down to what you want to do with the car. Personally, i want a car with good response at the expense of top end (even though i have fluked a good balance) as my car is predominantly street driven. With that in mind, I dont think you can go past a garrett 3071IW (or 52 trim 3076 IW if you want more then 270rwkw) on the stock manifold, with dump and lines and intake pipe installed should be under 3k. You're at the limit of your stock internals already. Id get hks 256/264 cams for about 1200 delivered, add 300 installed. z32 afm and pfc (if you can find one) 2k installed and tuned. 5 inch metal cat and cheapy exhaust and front pipe from someone like just jap say 1200 installed. 555 nismo injectors, say 1k installed if you get your own off nengun or perfect run and have them installed with the rest of the gear. The remaining 1k or so on swaybars and upgraded springs and shocks. There's a lot more suspension and driveline stuff you will need to do later on to get all the power down but your out of cash for now
  7. I don't think that manifold/turbo combo would even come close to clearing the 32 bonnet on a 20 or 25, let alone a 30. Even chopping a couple of inches out of the collector will be borderline for clearance (maybe a bulge in the bonnet would clear it though). For a turbo of that size on a high engine i really think you need to consider low mount options like the hks cast manifolds to fit it in a 32.
  8. The stock valve springs are fine, assuming they aren't 300k old and weak as piss. Mine are happy enough with a 256 8.8 inlet and 264 9.0 exhaust (no head mods required). 7400 limit and roughly 110K old But if the head is off i'd swap them anyway.
  9. post up a pic of how you have it connected. I have used a couple of bleeds in the past with no dramas (except the 2 stage turbo smart, that was crap until i modified it)
  10. Price drop on the coilovers now $1100ono
  11. It's about right. Account for a bit of inaccuracy in the gauge and unknown dump/exhaust/cat/mufflers will put you somewhere there. The stock actuator is "roughly" 10psi is more accurate.
  12. Does you boost controller have overboost protection?
  13. wheels sold
  14. Mine came with the kit. You're right though, $750 for a 38mm gate is a bit pricey. I run 20psi through the midrange which drops off to 18.5 at the top end with hks 256/264 cams. 288rwkw at last dyno. Non genuine studs because i found a place that had some the right size that were proper exhaust studs. Didn't even think to go to nissan for them to be honest. A high tensile stud is a high tensile stud after all (unless you get one of those packs from supercheap).
  15. My 38mm HKS is fine at that power. To be honest it needs a heavier spring to hold boost better at the top end as it drops off slightly And the best part is it will bolt up to your manifold without funny adapters I also used a genuine gasket but non genuine studs
  16. The 25 will fit up to the 20 box. You just need an engine, loom and ecu. You use the 20 engine mounts, AC compressor and power steering pump. The rest just fits up to your existing dump pipe, intake pipes and the like. The 20 box is under rated. Mine is still happy at 288rwkw, though i'm swapping to a 25 box now as it's only a matter of time before it dies.
  17. Thanks mate. bump
  18. I helped with the above and did most of the wiring work on it. Very straight forward conversion. In a nut shell, you will need the engine, loom, gearbox and engine cross member so you may as well buy a half cut. You are better off with an s14 engine which is pretty much identical to s15 as it has the stronger box and will fit up with the stock manual r32 tailshaft. On the cef i think we used an s15 rack and cross member as he had one in good condition but the tie rods had to be swapped for s13 items to get enough adjustment to straighten up the wheels. Minor mods to the gear box crossmember (elongated holes) and a bit of minor chopping of the hole in the floor for the gear stick as it sat further back i think. Clutch master had to be swapped for an s14 item to clear the back of the sr plenum and hicas was removed completely as he used the sr power steering pump/rack which didn't have provision for the hicas and it was already locked anyway. I was considering this swap into my r32 but figured the extra .5L out of an rb25 was a better idea. It was.
  19. Just throwing this out there as i'm about to do this conversion myself (even though my 20 box is holding up rather well behind the 25) I measured up and found the 25 box was about 10mm shorter overall than the 20 box. From what I could see without removing the 20 box and tailshaft you would actually need to lengthen the tail shaft assembly to suit. Either way before i let someone chop up my tailshaft i'll do a proper measure. The other thing is; Has anyone considered grafting a speedo drive out of a 33 or s13 in the dash and using that with the stock r33 sender? I'll be jury rigging mine so that i can have speed on my pfc handset in the short term but was just thinking about an alternative solution. Quick edit; does anyone know whether the rb20 and rb25 boxes use the same thrust bearing carrier before i start searching for a new one? Cheers Dave
  20. Advantage: They're cheap. Just make sure they are high impedence. I'm not sure how you'd go about trying to change the spray pattern. I found the s4 550's took a fair bit of tuning around idle and light throttle to get it smooth on my old rb20 but other than that they worked fine. I had them cleaned and a couple of pintle caps swapped as some were cracked when i bought them. As long as you don't expect to just chuck them in, adjust the injector correction value, and drive away they are fine. The s6 ones in my rb25 were just chucked in, correction set and then a bit of light tuning in the idle region with an O2 sensor jammed in the exhaust and driven for a few weeks before getting the proper tune done. A mate also installed a set of NA s5 injectors on his CA. Again, no problems. I'm pretty sure they were low impedence though, which is why you should check.
  21. Just get them cleaned, flowed and chuck them in. I've used both s4 550's and s6 550's with no problem on rb's
  22. It's one of the features you can only get to with the lap top software. I don't know which version my tuner uses sorry.
  23. I'll do what i can, I only have a 2mp camera phone i'm afraid
  24. Hi guys, Decided to make some space in the garage. Tein superstreets suit R32gtst. $SOLD Bought new less than 1 year/5000km ago. These are the aus spec model with the rear springs swapped for a shorter 5kg/mm spring and helper spring added to give more adjustment below 330mm. Front's are still 4kg/mm. Height and damper adjustable. No knocks, rattles or leaks. Super Longchamp VR3's 17 x 8 +30 and 17 x 9 +35 with tyres $SOLD 215/45-17 dunlop dz101 front with maybe 20% tread left and 235/40-17 rear GT Champiros near new. The wheels are multistud 114.3 pcd. 2 rims perfect, no gutter rash, 1 rim has a slight nick maybe 1cm long, and the p/s front has a some gutter rash. Both fronts could use a polish to remove some minor corrosion on the dish. All 4 centre caps are included. More pics available on request cheers Dave
  25. opps. speedstar (ssr) not rays. sorry. pm sent with pics of the stickers and stamps.
×
×
  • Create New...