BHDave

Hi guys, 3.5 inch straight through x force cannon. I bought it about 3 months ago from just jap to replace my existing rear muffler but before fitting managed to demolish my mid muffler so required a full new exhaust. The barrel is new in box and bubble wrap, the silencer has been used for about 30 minutes in my current exhaust (which funnily enough has the same rear cannon) so is a bit black. $130, in Sydney. Local buyer gets preference. Cheers Dave

They are Rays Indy somethingorother. Yes they exist. Sorry about the quality of the photo, stupid camera phone

You haven't considered the dynamic weight transfer when cornering/braking/accelerating in your calculation The strut will now compress further when cornering with the same load even if you increase the pre load to compensate for the difference in static loading. If you are really concerned you can increase the pre load on the spring to the point where the weight of the car is only compressing it by a small amount (say 10-15mm either end) and adjust the height via the base adjustment in order to maximize travel.

yep. tried it at 5, 4.5 and 4. 4.5 was the winner for me.

It should turn on just off idle and turn off again somewhere in the mid 5's. I can't remember the exact revs. Mine is set to switch off at 4500 from memory which gained me a few rwkw between 4500 and 5500. Setting it lower made no difference.

32 dead cold, It's normally up around 35-36 hot.

It's definately a highflow but it has a 7 blade front wheel which I haven't seen in a GCG one before. I'm with R31nismoid, give GCG a call. I ran an old GCG stage 2 highflow on my rb20, 14psi by about 4300, made 175rwkw at 12psi with a massive torque hole at the bottom end

It's happy enough to start pulling from 2k and makes a little positive pressure (remember it's in a 32 so less weight), but it really isn't doing too much until around 2800. Roll on in second gear at 2k you wont see much boost below 3k and between about 3500 and 4k all hell breaks loose. In third it's really starting to move by 3500 (if it doesn't break traction) with boost building from about 2500, In fourth and fifth it's accelerating hard from about 3100 making about .5bar at 2500 and 1bar just before 3. 1.4bar hits at 3200. It's not really linear acceleration as you come onto boost but once there it's a great thing. It makes freeway driving easy and i'm getting lazy through the twisties and leaving it in 3rd and 4th alot more than i should. Once revs are above 3500 in any of the top 3 gears it's just a matter of rolling the accelerator on and off and riding the torque wave.

One of the turbos listed above does infact have a T04s front wheel. HPIAB tends to name things in an odd sort of way sometimes. They have called the proper 56T 3076 a 3076 and the one with the T04s front end a 3037. Check the spec sheet link on the HPIAB page you have linked to.

I'll start off by saying I don't claim to know as much or fully understand everything that discopotato posts, but i seem to be making a bit of headway with a lump of a turbo i never had a lot of faith in. I'm pretty certain its luck I don't have a 3076, though the wheels in it are roughly the same size, non bb too. I bought a HKS lowmount kit second hand but the t04e was dead and so I swapped for what i was told was a T300s. As far as i could find out (this is a pretty old setup remember) the proper T300s had a .5 or .6 comp cover with a small trim T04s front wheel in it, mine had had a .7 cover on it and no HKS identification. The rest was typical T3 with .63 turbine housing. This is a plain bearing non cooled turbo so transient response is pretty much non existant compared to my old highflow. Thats the one disappointment with this setup. Admittedly though, it still makes boost pretty low in the rev range and will make 1.4 bar by 3200 on the street quite happily in 4th. My engine has no head work, just a set of drop in hks cams 256 8.8 inlet, 264 9.0 exhaust, exhaust cam set to zero, still run stock inlet manifold, 2.5 inch mild steel inlet piping and a china intercooler that i'm thinking of upgrading to one with better flowing end tanks. The rest is typical bolt on for this sort of power, injectors, z32, pfc, big custom exhaust, 5 inch metal cat.....but i plumbed the ex gate back in because it sounded like arse. I have really only played with the cams and exhaust since the kit was installed to get the whole lot breathing a bit better, with stock cams and an 80mm exhaust with 2 full bodied mufflers the car made 238rwkw at 19psi, I changed the cams and retuned and it spat out 268rwkw at about 18.5psi. I changed the cat back for a 3.5 with a hot dog and a cannon and it jumped to 274rwkw with the mixtures leaning out at the top end, again at 18.5psi and then tried to shut it up by replacing the hot dog with a full bodied custom 3.5 muffler and found the hotdog was falling apart. With a retune it made 288rwkw at 18.5psi. My last couple of runs are in the rb25 turbo sticky thread. You will see that I'm really starting to push shit up hill with this turbo as i wind the boost above 14psi but the midrange gains make it worthwhile i think. Drivability down low in my car is still pretty good. It's a bit cranky around 2k light throttle. Last time on the dyno we had a play around with the mixtures and it seemed to like 12:1 in that area, but to get the pfc to do that would mean that i had adjust all the target mixtures to 12's or turn off closed loop all together. I decided to live with it as it's not that bad, i'm just picky. Hope that's what you were after.

Someones feeling cranky today.... But he is right. You can have a bit of a play with the base timing on the dyno but thats about it prior to getting some form of tunable management. Personally, get a full exhaust, get a set of swaybars and some aftermarket castor rods. Some alloy subframe bushes and lock the hicas. That'll do for stage one.

I agree........(waits for thizzle for respond)

Should be able to swap the half shafts no problem. Unless it's a nismo pro LSD as they come with their own shafts to suit. I have found that the crown wheel bolts are different sizes but if you aren't looking to re use your gears on the new centre you shouldn't have a problem.

I honestly can't tell if it made a difference in my 32. I only bought it as a bit of rice and something to mount my fire extinguisher on

Not really as i don't own the above turbo I have a dirty old plain bearing t300s (which is basically just a t3/4 with a small trim t04s front wheel in a non gated .63 turbine housing) I was refering to cubes earlier post. Edit, probably should give some input on topic; don't touch the ebay turbos. Buy from a reputable supplier or spend your money twice. Those prices are way too low for me to have any faith in the product when an equivalent garrett is $1000+ more. Edit again, If you want to keep your existing dump pipe you probably should lower your expectations and stock with a GCG or Slide highflow. You can possibly get a 3076 cartridge as in your first post grafted to a high flowed stock exhaust housing but the results may be a bit dissapointing

Ah 56 trim 3076 in .82. I understand now. I can't complain about mine. Every time i think about changing (and the 52 trim 3076 disco was talking about was particularly tempting) I just can't bring myself to spend 2k and a weekend in the garage for a handful of kw at the top end and a couple of hundred rpm improvement in response.

It'll go close. Probably boost all in by 3400 and 280odd rwkw with the 3071 in .63 on the dyno. Probably a touch sooner on the street in 4th. Shit, if my old T300s lump can make 1.4 bar by 3200 in 4th on the street and go on to make 288rwkw, then a new generation 3071 in a .63 should decimate it response wise and have similar top end with better transient response.

You dont want either of those 3071's. You want this one; http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT What sort of power do you want? What sort of response/boost threshold? Answer these 2 questions and it will make it easier to pick a turbo.

17inHg isn't 17psi, it's closer to 8.5psi (or in this case -8.5psi) Typically imperial gauges (whether digital or anologue) show positive pressure as psi and negative pressure as inHg. If your ebc displays psi then it is almost certainly displaying inHg at idle. Funnily enough my car used to idle between 17 and 18 inHg when i had the old auto meter gauge. With the Greddy gauge it's at about 400mmHg.

lol have you maybe considered that each one is using different units? That is 17incheshg is pretty close to 430mmhg which is fairly close to what your stock gauge shows?

It's not an SR factory turbo, it doesn't have the 2 bolt flange on the inlet. It's definately too small for an rb25.

you need DIS-001's. Same for rb20, s1 25's and 26's

Rip the diff out, get the bearings replaced and the crown wheel/pinion checked and the clearance adjusted. Done.

You're better off getting a 25 box purely for ease of fitting. I don't know which work shop you are going to but the extra cost of the 25 box should be partially offset by being able to use standard tailshaft, crossmember and speed sensor. Id have thought the difference would be closer to 500 to be honest, considering the difference in purchase price of the boxes is only around $900. An rb20 box will require custom tailshaft and crossmember but an sr20 speed sensor should fit in and work properly. Oh and my 20 box is holding up to 288rwkw behind a 25 now I doubt it will last though.

There definately isn't a nut needed. I think your bolt is through the wrong way to be honest, the block is threaded from memory and the bolt when tightened should lock the assembly in place against the bracket. As it is now it can potentially flap about.