BHDave

For under a grand you really only have the slide highflow as an option. Regarding the failure, I'd be guessing without seeing the dump pipe but i doubt the turbo failed due to overboosting, more likely the turbine has been knocked/fractured when the install happened and has failed once the turbine speed got up.

Nope, all of them. You will have the signal for the boost controller, the hoses between the solenoid and the actuator, the hoses to the bov, the hoses to the charcoal canister. There are lots of them. Some one who is not familiar with what goes where may get something backwards accidentally. It's just a thought. Timing may have something to do with it aswell as has been mentioned.

Check that the vacuum lines are hooked up correctly.

They seem to do alright, but for around the same money Sliding performance high flow ftw.

Yep. Yavuz does good work. My car has been going on their dyno fairly regularly over the last 3 years to check things are safe after mods were done and was tuned when i originally got my pfc about a 18 months ago, touched up when i got my cams, and then back on for a check at the end of last year. Their prices are pretty good too.

Someone made a custom pulley about 12 months back that allowed them to adjust it from the front. I can't remember who it was now. I think the results were a bit disappointing and adjusting the exhaust side had more effect. Can't remember if it was an r33 or r34 engine though.

Does your ebc have over boost protection? Most do and what you have described seems to match how it performs. If it does, check the settings and make sure it isn't set too low

Mine at effective +45 offset, 2 degrees camber and 225 bridgestone semi slick. Straighten up the wheel and increase the offset by another 8mm and they'd stick out like dogs balls, plus scrub with a wider tyre. Sorry about the picture quality, camera phone in night vision plus me with the shakes = bad photo. Just as a reference, heres one of the front showing the thickness of the lip. That may be why mine were a bastard to fit under the guards.

The s4 brown plug injectors are 550 and low impedence. 195500-1370 from memory. The later s4 red ones with same part number are high imp as well as the s5 ones 195500-2020 or 2200 (can't remember, it's been a while). Personally, i'd go sway bars, good tyres, boost controller to add a touch of boost and stick it on a dyno for an hour to check it's safe, adjust the base timing and leave it at that. No point changing injectors or afm at this stage. Stock injectors are good for 250kw atw at a stretch Second stage, look at ecu and front pipes and a decent cat (there's another couple of grand) And clutch if your's is getting slippy.

I have squeezed some 17x9.5 ssr's under the rear of mine. You really don't have a lot of room to play with. The effective offset on mine with spacer is +46 as i removed the original 15mm spacer that bolts to the back of the rim and replaced it with a 5mm slip on to fit it. Ideally it would need an offset around +43 give a bit more clearance to the tie rod end and coil over as it is really very (too) close atm. You will need lipped guards minimum running 235's, probably slight flares to run any wider tyre without scrubbing problems. If the tyres have the little lip to protect the edge of the rim it will be even tighter

Mine looks like it hasn't moved from the day it was installed. I'm assuming your talking about the grub screw adjustment on the back of the pulley? I have a stock engine though so just left it alone when installing my cams, didn't go the extra yards to dial everything in. Just one other thing that may be skewing your results: Is the vct still working properly? Have you done a run with it off and on to see what happens? Have you looked at the numbers on the handset? stuff like peak afm voltage, peak injector duty and the like to see whether they are significantly down on the old peak numbers? As these are only looking at the engine, rather than the drive line it could give you an indication as to whether the engine is down on power at least.

It's on the drivers side of the engine bay bolted to the bell housing, just under the inlet manifold. 2 14mm bolts (one on top which is a bit of a pig to get to and one on the back of the bell housing thats easy), a plug in terminal and a ring terminal from memory. Easy enough job to remove and replace. Sounds like a stator problem (means that the gear isn't extending properly and engaging the flywheel ring gear). It's probably just gunked up. If you can remove it yourself it will be fairly cheap to get fixed or exchanged.

Use it. No problems with the walbro in low 200's if it's genuine, it's the copies you have to be careful of. As for me, pretty much identical setup to nismoid, walbro in tank using stock wiring (easy to fit, came with all mounting hardware needed to fit 32gtst/s13 fuel pump bracket), Bosch 044 external running through surge tank, new 12 gauge wiring to pump plus inline fuse, custom bracket, replaced all original rubber hoses. Audible at idle with the stereo off and full interior fitted, cant hear it if the stereo is on low or the car is moving. Making 288rwkw with stock reg, no fuel surge problems.

52 trim 3037 would be my choice as well but step down to the .63 exhaust. I'd also leave the stock head gasket alone. Check this thread out for a garrett alternative using a 52 trim wheel (garrett only offers 56 trim normally). Cost should be significantly lower than the HKS. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=147580

Thats some nice numbers carl. Out of interest, were the 3037 results above with the stock manifold and modified stock rear housing? Yours had the old T04s comp wheel/.7 cover right?

There's a bit of debate as to whether the stock exhaust manifold is getting restrictive at that point. That said, there are a few people with the larger garrett turbos in I/W housings as well as the HKS variants that are making better than 300rwkw using the stock inlet and exhaust manifolds. For a compromise between ultimate power and response I think the garrett 3076 (GT30R) in a .63 IW housing on the stock manifold would be very close to what you are after. The .63 will limit top end power some what but the the improved response is worth the trade off IMHO. The compressor housing A/R only really plays a small part in the equation. 3076 comes with a port shrouded .6 cover. Older style turbos of the same size (T04s wheels) usually came with a .7 cover. You will see more gain with a better flowing exhaust and cams than a manifold in the mid to high 200's. At the end of the day, if you are happy with the power and response of the above setup (and you will be) but want to trade off some bottom end for top end then an upgrade to a .8x non gated exhaust housing and better manifold would be worth considering. The trouble is that your goal is smack in the middle of what a 3071 will offer response wise and a 3076 (in larger A/R exhaust housing) will offer power wise. Small housing 3076 is probably the best compromise. I'm sure other will disagree

There was a thread on here a few months back where the author had a 2871 core in rb25 housings. Did a quick search, can't find it. Anyone else remember?

As you already have splitfires it eliminates coil problems as you have stated. There's nothing wrong with the plugs you have in there now for the turbo and boost you are running. Gapping them down at stockish boost levels is pointless, it's usually just a mask for dud coils. I suspect your problem lies with the stock ecu running into rich and retard, which in turn introduces a rich miss. A colder plug as recommended above will make the problem worse as it is more sensitive to over fueling and fouling, particularly at lower plug gaps. As a first move, gap your existing plugs down to .9 or so and see what happens. Then get the car to a dyno for a power run and see what the mixtures are like, while it's there get the fuel pressure checked at the rail to see if your pump or fuel filter is dead/dying. Just for reference, i run splitfires, 20psi and 7 heat range plugs at .9 gap with no miss/fouling issues. good luck! edit; looks like you posted while i was writing. congrats on the find. almost certainly the problem. Just so you know, plugs don't just burn off electrodes for no reason....

The handbrake earths the circuit for the light when you put it on. The most common problem in these situations is that the signal wire is earthing itself some how when you drive through corners, or your brake fluid is low (same light). In my case, it looked like a turbo timer was installed on my car previously and when they removed it they left the end of the wire that ran to the hand brake exposed. It would earth occasionally and the light would flash on.

My latest run: 288.9rwkw with about 18.5psi at peak power related mods are; Ms k&n pod with custom fiberglass partition and 100mm uPVC CAI z32 afm china hybrid copy cooler s6 rx7 550 injectors power fc HKS 256/264 drop in cams adjustable exhaust cam gear set to 0 split fire coils and bcpr7es plugs gapped to about .9mm HKS low mount cast manifold HKS 38mm ex wastegate with 2 inch pipe plumbed in before the cat HKS t300s turbo, .7 ar comp cover, T04s comp wheel (unknown trim) T3 rear end in .63 housing 3 inch pipe off turbo 5 inch catco metal cat 3.5 inch custom mild steel cat back with custom 3.5 inch mid muffler and 3.5 inch x force cannon previous best of 274rwkw at 18.5 psi peak, changed the old hot dog mid for a proper muffler, gained 14rwkw and made 274 on 1 bar this time edit: woops, this is a stock bottom end rb25 in an r32 btw

I know too_much_boost squeezed a 450x300x75 in behind the stock bar but it took a lot of hacking. If you dont want to hack consider an arc or HKS side mount. There was a r32 HKS one for sale on here not long ago, it may still be around.

lol, so you didn't cave when he told you to wind up the boost some more? It's times like this i regret getting rid of my highflow and sticking the hks manifold and t300s on. So much work, so little gain....but I still have 2 more rwkw!

Marked up your picture. In and out to the dsbc, blank off the other one. It's a bit of an educated guess but i figure the larger pipe coming off the side of the tee is the boost signal, the other large one definitely goes to the actuator and the small one marked blank is the bleed return line from the factory boost controller. The other small line off the tee should go to the factory solenoid as well and will be redundant once you remove the factory solenoid. hope that helps.

I think you have it right from what i can see. Someone more familiar with r34 plumbing may be of more help. The pressure signal goes to in (I'm assuming you have pointed to the pressure signal but can see where it connects to the intake piping), and out goes to the actuator (which you definately have right). You can then remove all the factory boost control hoses and solenoid.

Gain should be as high as possible to maximise response, but not so high that it spikes Depending on the version of the dsbc you have you will either have 1 or 4 gain settings. If you have 1 (original dsbc) then set the gain on your lowest boost setting. Start by setting both gain and duty to 5. Drive it (floor it in 3rd from 2k rpm) and see what boost spikes to. What you are aiming for at this stage is to get the spike up to just below where you want your boost set so adjust gain only. What you should see is boost spike up to say .8 bar and then drop back to .6 (assuming standard actuator). Once you are there adjust the duty up slowly. As you adjust duty the spike may creep a bit higher so you may have to drop the gain fractionally as you increase the duty. What you are doing now is bringing up the set level of boost up from .6 to .8 so you should get boost response that jumps up to .8 and then stays there. Definitely no spike at this stage. If you have 4 settings then follow the above for each setting. It's easier than it sounds, and once you get the first one set the rest are a walk in the park. I'm assuming stock turbo so you're aiming around .8-.85 bar? If so then initially set your boost cut at about 1 bar with a reduction of about 5 as you don't really want it intruding on setup unless you get a really nasty spike. Then drop it back to about .9-.95 once you have set everything. No point having a boost controller if you aren't making it work Hopefully that made some sense to you?