BHDave

You can still get a fairly good tune out of the hand set. If the guy knows rb's then (other than bitching about having to tool around with the hand set) he shouldn't have a problem. My first tune was done on the hand set as my tuners software didn't like my power fc. It was fine.

My money is on the springs being silly stiff. Ive seen a few cars with cuscos that have the same problem. The shock will move when the helper spring compresses. If your shock is stuffed you will see that the helper spring doesn't compress at all when you drop the car. For both to be equally stuffed so both sides are acting the same is pretty unlikely. It's easy enough to test anyway. Just take one out of the car, dismantle and see if you can compress the shock without the springs on. That will give you your answer right there.

Any after market turbo you get is going to be able to pump more air than stock injectors can handle. You can always keep the boost down but where's the fun in that? If you're going to spend the money on a rebuild, spend some on injectors as well.

The bump in power doesn't look too good. Boost spike at that point? Blue smoke not black? Not good, thats due to oil, not fuel. You're still a bit lean at the top end but could remove a bit between 4500 and 6500. Where are you located? It would be worthwhile finding someone with a dyno who can tune a pfc, even if you have to travel, but I'd get a second opinion on the smoke first.

oops

piston size is the same. r32gtr sumitomos suit a 296x34mm rotor vs gtst 280x32.

agreed. You don't really need to consider the 25 box until you are well over 200rwkw imho.

Just pump boost into it until you either get valve float, no gain, or run out of fuel. I think the limiting factor in your setup is the walbro intank pump. You may find that your injectors are maxing out earlier than expected if it isn't up to the task. Stock valve springs and lifters will likely stop the fun at about 20psi anyway.

Check the cable moves freely, check the throttle body, check that nothing is jamming against the pedal under the dash and that the mounts are ok and moving freely. The weight of the pedal is unrelated to anything else on the car.

The nissan rubber boot when new will slide over the stock stick with a bit of lubrication. Unless your shifter is more than an inch or so in diameter you wont have a problem And the whine is due to the shifter, not the boot being split. The stock stick is rubber filled so damps it, most after market shifters are solid metal so transmit the noise.

I think the faq you mention is for an r32 model rb25de which shares all the same plugs and (i think) injector size. For a 33 model det it definitely IS NOT a plug in as many many people have discovered. It is possible to run the 32gtst loom with the 33 engine, but there are a few things worth considering. Are you planning on running the 20 or 25 ecu? To run the 25 ecu it's just a matter of swapping a couple of pins around on the 32gtst ecu plug (i think it's injectors) pm carlh for info as he runs a 25 pfc on a 20. You will also need to swap a few sensor and injector plugs around on the engine side to suit the rb25. You will also need to add in wiring for the vct, secondary idle stepper and a couple of other things. I went the other way and adapted the 25 loom to the r32. It's a lot of work but i think it gives a better (tidier) result. I think predator has a faq detailing a big chunk of the conversion into a 32gts4. 2 years and a lot of beers have dulled my memory but basically, get the wiring diagrams and pinouts trace and tag everything. Then cut and solder in the plugs that you poach from the 20 loom to suit the 32.

If it was formerly a CA powered s13 they don't have a consult port. You will have to wire one in direct off the ecu. It's not hard, i've done a couple myself. If you find an rb20 wiring diagram the consult plug wiring is normally shown in the top corner somewhere. There are 4 signal wires plus a power and an earth from memory.

You have stock cams which likely means stock springs and lifters. Around 20psi is where you start to see the factory gear start to valve float. float = bad. If you want to run more boost get cams and springs and probably lifters in there.

If the rocker arms broke wouldn't that mean no valve opening and so no fuel getting in? So no fuel smell? Check the ignitor! Or pull the cover off the top of the engine and check for busted rockers. I'm yet to see a busted one in anything but a very big cammed very high reving engine. If you have snapped a rocker and don't have rocker arm stoppers expect a very big mess when you remove the cover and an expensive repair.

Yes, the factory line can get blocked. It only has a very small hole at one of the banjos so if the car wasn't looked after by a previous owner you may be paying the price. The factory banjos also have restrictors in them. The easiest way to check if the turbo is getting oil is to just loosen the oil feed line at the turbo and see if oil spews out when you crank the car. Or just drop the oil return and see if oil is getting through that way.

Sounds like it dropped a channel on the ignitor. I'm yet to see a coil just stop working completely (unless the wiring was chopped somehow). Find out which cylinder isn't firing, swap coils between that one and a working one. If the miss stays on the same channel it's likely the ignitor, if it moves to where the coil was moved to it's a coil. When you did your compression test, what did the plugs look like?

It comes down to whats included in the price and what the price is. Consider that the asking price on the hks low mount manifolds is around 1k on their own and the 38mm hks waste is worth a few hundred. It's not even close to bolt on if it doesn't come with lines, intake and hot pipe, as well as dump and wastegate outlet pipe. It probably cost me close to $500 to install a HKS low mount kit by the time you factor in gaskets, intake pipe, silicone joiners, and lines as well as flanges and exhaust pipe. And i did my own fabrication and installation work. Not the greatest turbo in the world either, but if it's priced around 1300 then it may be worth buying just to get your hands on the manifold and gate and add a new garrett 3071 to it later on.

Not when you can buy 2 from nengun for the same price. Buying from os means you are running the gauntlet of duty and tax. If it slips in under and the turbo is in good working condition you have a bargain. If you get stung and find out that the turbo has been damaged in transit or is faulty in any way then not so good.

Someone did it a while back. Can't remember if it was successful.

hooray! (thats a lot of built rb's)

I found mine was the speedo itself chewing up cables. Replaced the speedo and installed the 3rd speedo drive in the space of 3 weeks and it hasn't broken another one in 2 years.

Tell the workshop to cough up. If they can't install a cam shaft without snapping it then they are are obviously doing something wrong. You can also point out that someone obviously managed to install them correctly once before as they were in your mates car.

No problem at all. Depends what you are planning for the car in the future really as to what to go with now. If you plan on leaving it stock the any reputable brand will do the job

Dont forget the different speed sensor required aswell.

I agree with scathing. Project mu all the way but at $1100 or so retail for a set of 2 piece front rotors it's worth checking your options. I'm fairly certain DBA do a 2 piece rotor to suit the brembos though. It may be a cheaper option.