BHDave

The standard computer does not have a boost cut and you dont want to get your wastegate signal from the same point as the bov or boost gauge signal. You need to take the wastegate signal from before the throttle body, not after, the closer to the compressor outlet the better. Get a nipple brazed into the compressor outlet pipe. I'd suggest that the missfire is due to slightly rich mixtures, 15 year old coils, and plugs (and gaps) not suited to the level of boost you are running.

Spring rates are the same as the jap models, the changes are in the dampers. For the price you are quoting i'm assuming superstreets? Also consider that the springs used in the super streets are a 70mm diameter vs the more commonly available off the shelf 65mm springs used in most jap coilovers, but even tein springs are reasonably priced and there is a fair range available.

I can't believe how much space you have in the s14 engine bay It's a bit tighter in the r32 engine bay I had to move the power steering reservoir to fit the compressor outlet pipe.

There's nothing too wrong with the power you are making considering the boost run and the a/f ratio. I'm assuming stock cams? Get cams, watch as the car spits out another 25-30rwkw at the same boost and should just scrape 300rwkw with a bit more boost. Ive seen a stock cammed rb25 with 2835proS make 269rwkw with more boost and a bottle of octane booster, but the same car is only making 256 on 16psi and pump fuel. It also uses a china intercooler.

My money is on no check valve in the fuel line so you have to give the pump a chance to prime the fuel system before cranking. Should only need a couple of seconds.

Carl! What were you thinking with the pod location!

Some one has posted a similar question recently with a photo. It's a junction box to allow all the earths off the ecu to be grouped together if it's the same one

Nothing wrong with the cheap cores. Most people's problems (if they have any) are to do with piping not lining up.

Sounds like you have inadvertantly advanced the exhaust cam, or your cas has a broken locating pin which has allowed you to install it out one tooth

If it's doing it randomly then there is a problem with the hicas, not the alignment. Lock it or start fault finding......

The splines are the same but the s13 one probably wont have the tabs in the back to suit your hicas. If you have it locked already then it isn't a problem, if you haven't you'll get a warning light pop on after any sustained driving at 80km or over. The diameter of the boss may be smaller than an r32 specific one too so you may have a gap in the trim on the steering column.

Short shifters reduce the throw of the stick, not the length. They do it by moving the pivot point of the stick up slightly. The further it moves up, the shorter the shift and the more effort you need to bang it in gear fast as you have lost a bit of leverage.

On an s1 rb25 the largest hks drop in inlet cam that you can use while retaining the vct is a 256, where as the largest exhaust is a 264. same on s14/15 aswell. Stock springs are fine with these cams provided boost doesn't get too high (20psi plus) and you maintain something close to the stock revlimit. Not saying that it isn't worth upgrading the springs, but it just isn't absolutely necessary. The largest off the shelf tomei's have sligtly less lift and shorter duration than the hks units. Both hks and tomei cams are of high quality, i would have no problem using either.

Its some mongrel nissan/hitachi/garrett T3 flanged thing. But definately not

3500 is the full rb25 kit including all the bit's needed for bolt on. 2800 will get you the turbo only. I'm comparing apples with apples as buying the turbo only is only part of the cost of getting the thing fitted.

I'd say oil pump as the factory light goes off at really low pressures (under .5 bar) and is less prone to failure than the dodgy factory gauge. For it to be on at idle, combined with the noisy lifters is almost definately pointing at a pressure problem, whether the pump or a pick up problem (you don't have a dented sump by any chance?). As fatgts-r has pointed out, the kink in the return line is doing you no favours but would more than likely result in a smokey turbo rather than an oil pressure problem as it is only a low pressure return to the sump. Even blocked oil feeds to the turbo should result in a higher system pressure rather than lower (and again, not so good for the turbo). You'd know the difference between noisy 550 injectors and lifters too i'd bet so i won't go there Not that you can hear the injectors clicking away from in the cabin.

Is the total length of the manual drive shaft correct or is it a bit long overall? If it won't hurt to lose an inch or so overall just swap your auto rear half onto your manual front half. You may be running into abs vs non abs diff issues

I think they are a 19

He's probably done the pinion from your description (doubt it's the crown wheel but possible also) Aftermarket diffs come as centres only, no gears. There are a few that come with output shafts aswell.

It sounds like either a restriction in the wastegate or outlet or a problem in the plumbing to the wastegate, either blocked or split line. I'd remove the avcr from the loop completely and replace the line between your boost signal and wastegate as a start. Also check that the pipe off your wastegate hasn't been crushed under the car somehow.

You can but you have to disassemble the case to get to the reg and brushes unlike the old bosch types that have an easily accessable reg screwed to the outside.

It will come down to the condition of your stock coils. Stock ones are capable of making that power, but check the compatibility of the ignitor on coil type plugs before commiting to a dis 4

worst case, remove the coil from cylinder 1 and jam a pluglead in between the plug and the coil. Hook your regular old timing light onto that for a signal.

The hks 2835proS will do what you are asking fairly easily if you are going to put cams in, a bit less without. IMHO they are the best bolt on street turbo for an rb25 by far, but you are paying for it. Considering that your HKS unit will set you back around 3500 if you can slip it into the country without duty or tax (but includes everything you need to bolt it on) you should also look at the 3071 that disco has mentioned above as it is considerably cheaper to buy but you have the added expense of the new manifold, wastegate, dump and intake piping, and oil and water lines. If you can do it for the same price as the hks unit i'd be surprised. End of the day, both will give similar results from what i have seen.

lol, yeah, everything below the fast reply button is big but i can live with that.