BHDave

series 6 and later will fit, but you need to swap the plug to suit the denso plug. They aren't as cheap or as easy to come by as the earlier s4/5 injectors though

I'm finding when i click on a link to view a topic that the page is loading, then reloading, then reloading again, so that if i hit the back button i have to go back through up to 20 copies of the same page to get back to the index. It seems to be a consistant number too, if i go from the main page to the forced induction subsection it will load the page 3 times, and topics generally 7 or 8 times. Viewing topics in suspension braking and tyres it's up about 20. If i right click the link and open the topic from there it will only open once, so i hit the back button once and i'm back in the menu

yes, but 280 diameter rotor on gtst vs 296 from memory on gtr No, the calipers both suit the same size diameter rotor but i have a feeling the 32gtr rotor is 2mm thicker than a 33 gtst rotor and a slightly different offset.

But if only the manifold was changed (as stated) wouldn't it then point squarely at the manifold? Id suggest it is possible to make 250rwkw on a stock manifold but you are pushing shit up hill to do it, same way it's possible to make 300 rwkw running a quiet 3 inch exhaust but a 3.5 inch straight through will make life easier, especially on the engine.

Are the figures you have quoted rwhp or assumed flywheel hp? 510rwhp works out at what 375-380rwkw roughly?

Heaps of room! Try it with a .7 comp cover

Sorry mate, but you lost all credibility and i stopped reading the second i read this, "If you want to test your car to see what power its putting down Hit the Track and get a MPH" I hate statements like this, have you considered: track preparation, driver experience, tyre choice, tyre pressure, temperature, altitude maybe? I know that 2 of the above are eliminated on a dyno and 2 are covered by corrections which to me means the score is currently at 4-0 with the dyno in the lead for accurately predicting power.....

Looks good, now ditch that bloody air regulator valve which is uglying up the very nice looking intake manifold Why the swap to an rb25 ignitor?

I'd say it's an assumption.... Do you know if said highflow has water cooling? Because i'm fairly certain even the plain bearing EVO TD's have watercooling, unlike the aftermarket trust units, and all the oem garretts i've seen on cars have water cooling, though my aftermarket one doesn't. it hasn't seized on me yet btw

s14 and 15 adm are also plain bearing, the s14 and 15 jdm got bb. Don't ask me to start quoting different cart numbers, it's been done to death on silvia forums and people still don't accept it.

Lol, yeah i figured it was coming as i've seen other threads where you have posted on the topic.... Interesting about the alloy bushes in improved production. So you can replace the actual stock rubber bush with a poly one but can't run alloy subframe bushes? Surely that would also exclude poly pineapples?

1. The cooler doesn't care what way it flows 2. You can fit the sandwich plate without dumping the oil but id recommend changing oil at the same time anyway (and also cleaning the lines and core before installation) 3. pull the plug off the cas and give it a crank for 20 seconds or so, then check the level and top it up before starting it

I disagree. Don't knock the alloy subframe lock until you try it. The increase in NVH is minimal. The improved handling and tighter rear end are worth every bit. I installed mine about 2 years ago when my car was still a daily driver and never regretted it or considered removing them, unlike my 044 or 3.5 inch exhaust.

I previously used the old blue emanage. Haven't paid much attention to the ultimate but basically, if it has adjustment for injector lag (the old one didn't), and has pos/neg fuel adjustment in rev vs load (as opposed to throttle position on the old one) and can remove speed cut and raise the rev limit then it may be ok....for a piggyback. I found very little tuner support for it. I much prefer my pfc, yes it's double the cost, but support and tunability will mean i will always lean towards a stand alone ecu over a piggyback in anything but a very light tune application.

The miss fire issue will almost certainly come down to your choice of coils. Are the ones you are running compatible with the ecu? What does the manufacturer recommend for use on an rb25? The turbo isn't your problem. It does seem to come on late which may be a combination of a large exhaust housing and a very conservative base tune. The turbo you are running will not be as good as a similar sized unit with a gt30 front wheel but it is still capable of high 200s once you do cams and injectors and get a bigger fuel pump.

the crank is 142-152 newton meters. The flywheel will be about the same. I could only find info on rb26 flywheel torque which is definately 142-152 but they have a higher torque on the crank bolt from memory.

The beers should have been step one. That way the smashing of finger wouldn't have hurt as much Nice to hear you got it sorted

You've got the nut off? Hammer time. It'll be under a bit of tension so reluctant to just slide out. Easy job. come on arbess, it's only 3 bolts a side!

The hks 264's have been 9mm for ages! I run a 264 9mm exhaust cam in my 25. stock springs, no problems. Inlet is only 256 with 8.8mm lift i think.

I have my vdo pressure sender teed off the stock sensor. No problems yet though it does look a bit different to your picture

It's a very easy conversion, just been a couple of years since i did it. red top sr and box into a cef requires the use of an s13 crossmember and power steering rack. (get a lock bar for your hicas and remove all the solenoids and lines while you're at it). I'm fairly certain that the s13 tie rods are used aswell. Gearbox crossmember needs to be modified to sit slightly further forward (or back, cant remember) to line up with the bolt holes in the cefiro floor. Gear stick hole needs cutting and the gear stick needs to be modded to sit it in the right spot (but this isn't essencial). And as per usual, wiring is the fun part, but you can modify the sr engine loom and pull the power for everything off the 4 pin plug in the front passenger side of the engine bay. Wire in the eccs and ign relays next to the ecu in the same way the rb loom has them. You use the rb body loom section on the sr. Some plugs need changing to wire in the neutral and reverse switch. Swap the rb20 speedo drive into the sr box. I'm fairly certain an s13/14 clutchmaster cylinder is needed to clear the inlet manifold aswell. Some bending of lines and a shortening of the threaded section at the pedal is needed to maintain the range of adjustment. Then just wheel alignment and s13 front pipe and a bit of custom work around the cat converter and it'll be a runner. Tacho will be out of wack though.

Do you know what model tein you have. I would assume NA based on your description. Just check before commiting to springs that they dont have circlip adjustment on the struts. Off the top of my head i think the top diameter of the spring is the same as stock but the tein NA/NR use a smaller diameter base than stock

Mine did it as it had a wire that i assume was off a turbo timer still spliced inline with the switch. It would earth occasionally on cornering and the light would flash up.

Rolling the power on vs stomping on it will have the ecu running through a slightly different area of the map, or passing through a poorly mapped area of the map quickly rather than slowly so not showing up. If it was a load related miss due to plugs or coils i would expect it when you floor it rather than roll the power on so it's probably just a rich (or lean) bit of the map I'd say a touch up of your tune is in order

Ah, that explains it. You included mods too. Mine was sub 3k but only engine loom and ecu, new timing belt, water pump and z32 afm (as i didn't have an afm), swapped in my existing highflow, manifold, emanage, twin plate did new cooler piping, used existing gearbox. Done. If i included all the stuff i've done since then 7k probably wont cover it