BHDave

$8k!! Mine cost nowhere near that! Personally, i'd consider rebuilding the current engine rather than swapping in a 26. But it all depends on you current state of mods (ie, what you can swap over) and what your ultimate goal is.

Which rb25? r33 de and det the rail wont fit GTR injector's will fit an rb20 but require a dropping resistor as they are a low impedence injector rather than a high imp like the 20. I'm fairly certain the 25 injectors are also high impedence as there is no resistor pack in the loom but i haven't tested one myself.

As long as the fluid level is higher than the power steering pump inlet then it should be fine as thats the only bit that requires a gravity feed. I considered moving mine to where the charcoal canister sits in my r32 but the bends needed in the feed to the pump changed my mind. I ended up moving it up behind the strut tower, but it won't be ideal on a highmount due to the amount of radiated heat from the exhaust housing and exhaust.

I ran into the same problem on a converted s14 engine recently. The japs must be mad for over tightening flywheel bolts. Combined with loctite they take can take a lot of leverage to crack. We managed to crack the bolt in the harmonic balancer before some of the bolts in the flywheel as we had the engine locked off that bolt originally On the flip side, removal of the stock flywheel on my rb was a piece of cake with a short breaker bar and socket

I run 7's aswell and have found them to be a bit touchy if the mixtures aren't right, I occasionally get a fouled plug on warm start and the engine drops a cylinder temporarily, so it may be contributing to your problem aswell. But check mixtures first.

For justin- you are probably on the edge of the r & r mapping and the cold denser air is tipping you over the edge. Combined with old coils you begin to get the miss as the mixtrues are richer. Check the heat range plugs you are running too. You want a 6. I'd put it on a dyno before doing anything though and see what your arf's are doing. It will eliminate afm's/fuel pumps/fuel filters/injectors from the list of possibles for 60 bucks. Then start looking at spark. Taso- your's is almost certainly coils, but try gapping your plugs down to .8 before commiting to a set of splitfires or similar.

Yes. I've seen one fitted to an rb25 on the standard manifold

If you fit an oil cooler i doubt you'll have problems with the engine temperature (assuming your cooling system is in good nick atm). I think a TD06 with small rear housing on the rb24 will be a bit of a ball tearer to be honest. Obviously less responsive than a 2530 size turbo but not too far behind and a fair bit more top end. I have seen internal gate td05's perform fine so i don't see how the internal gate 6 will have problems.

So you have it out on the floor but not back in yet? The worst is yet to come, matey

How can you have a power fc and a stock ecu? Piggybacked due to auto? If it is a power fc tune then that is sub par, I agree with nismod, safc then acceptable and also explains your detonation issue and having to mess with the base timing rather than the specific cells where the detonation occurs.

apexi what? safc? I'd say that you need a stand alone aftermarket ecu so that you can adjust the on boost timing independent of screwing around with the base timing.

The type 1's aren't plumback from memory and i don't know that you can adjust the preload on the spring either. They are also a bit small for the job to be honest, the stock bov could probably move more air at the same pressure. If the cars laggier it can only really come down to a leak, whether the bov itself or where it's mounted to the inlet, or possibly even where you have blocked the old return line.

13 degrees timing where? What ecu?

If it is only fluttering on back off at very low boost than i'd say it is perfect. It means the bov will definately be closed on return to idle so no stalling issues.

Steve's right. Ignition and eccs relay

do you have an oil cooler? Mine are stable at around 80-85 degrees unless i'm giving the car some stick. I also run a plain bearing non water cooled turbo (you have a trust now right?)

I'd drop the head gasket and plenum myself, leave the stock gasket to maintain your compression at this stage, and the plenum can come later as you won't benefit hugely at this stage, though there will be a reasonable improvement in throttle response depending on the layout of your pipework atm. Around 270rwkw is fairly safe with a stock bottom end provided you keep the boost below 20psi or so, so the valves don't float and keep the peak revs around 7000 so you don't throw a rod. And be a bit conservative on the timing as sustained detonation at those sort of levels will kill the engine in about 2 seconds flat.

Nice to hear you got it sorted

What if it was an 83 year old driving a modifed silvia on their p's? I'd love to read that story, I'd also be interested to hear the comments from some of the more bigotted talk back hosts

Check the noltec website. They have their catalogue up so you can check whats there for your car. Just checked, they are listed on page 143 Give them a ring just to check though.....

Mine has been holding together fine with about 240rwkw, it now has a bit more power so we'll see, though i am starting to hear a bit of input shaft noise. The box is close to 180k old too. Does the guy with 187 have it behind an rb20 or 30? The torque will be what kills it.

Have you removed the factory low/high voltage setup? It could explain it if the sound changes just off idle as the pump gets more power. But if it's unrelated to the car being stationary or moving then look at the above options.

There is no boost cut! Check your plug gaps and the plug temp range, Id recommend bcpr6es which are a .8 gap and one step colder than stock. Stick it on a dyno and check the air/fuel ratio. If it is leaning out and missing then get a new pump. If it around 11-12:1 and missing then look at your coils, if it is richer than that and missing then you you should look at bringing the mixtures back to about 12s before spending money on other things.

I recently bought a pair from nissan for $90 for the pair (that was a trade price through a mate who worked there). For reference: It's an NTN bearing with part number TU0808-1

The needle roller bearing also needs an oil seal or it will run dry after a while. My s4 rx7 spat one shortly after an engine swap by a workshop that shall remain nameless. When it disintergrated the needles went all through the clutch preventing it disengaging properly and scoring the pressure plate and flywheel and shreding the friction plate (I also found an 8inch friction plate was in there instead of an 8.5). On removal i found that there was no seal installed despite one being pretty clearly specified in the workshop manual.