BHDave

I run metal ones in my r32 with all the rear suspension bushes in poly and 5kg/mm rear springs. It's fine, there is still some rubber between the top collar and the floor and the more solid feel of the back end was worth any minor increase in NVH in my opinion. If i had a mechanical diff it may be a different story though...

The core will drain itself so thats not the problem. If the oil in the core was backing up you'd be blowing blue smoke and probably have oil through all your pipework rather than all over the engine bay. Have you made any other changes while you were there? Banjo on the oil feed not being done up tight is the most likely cause, especially as it has sprayed everywhere. Have you used new washers?

I think you guys are trying to confuse everyone here. The rb20 runs high impedence injectors and no ballast resistor which is where cruiseliner is confused. R31nismod is talking about the ignitor that sits at the back of the engine on top of the coil cover piece. The microtech doesn't necessarily need the ignitor and it definately doesn't need a ballast resistor. To answer some of your questions, the resistance shoud be between 12 and 14 ohms, the rail is stock, i don't know what collars you are refering to but the assembly you have is complete as the rail holds the injector firmly in place unlike hosetail injectors or side feeds which do have a collar, and i suspect the pintle cap has melted as a result of your engine dying and combustion has gotten back into the intake. A fuel injection specialist will be able to clean and flow your injectors and replace the pintle caps, orings and insulators and tell you if they are still ok. I suspect that it wasn't running fine if you cracked a piston Find a new tuner once the new engine goes in......

Does anyone have a dyno sheet of a 2lt engine running one of these superchargers? You could then compare stock turbo rb20 to some other 2lt straight 6 supercharged engine (a 1ggze maybe?). I have a stock turbo rb20 dyno sheet floating around somewhere for a comparison if it's needed. Seeing as power is just torque times revs it will be easy enough to compare bottom end torque between the 2 engines. And then poor old Hakai can make an informed decision rather than base it on a whole heap of opinions of guys who have never supercharged a thing in their life (I am also one of those who have never supercharged a thing in my life). I for one would be interested to see a comparison of some sort.

I don't think the rb20de has provision for the stock det water and oil lines. You are almost certainly going to need some custom lines made up for the oil feed and water, and the block will need to be drilled and tapped for the oil return.

Yes, the problem being that i have alot of stuff sucking power which was why i asked about the alternator rating. I don't have a 33 so i'm only talking about 2 feet of wiring between the battery and the alternator and so expect the volts drop to be marginal with the size of the factory r32 cable. The alternator was swapped to drive it a bit harder at idle to hopefully provide a bit more power without having to go an buy another alternator. Also the thought that the 25 alternator potentially had a higher rating than the 20 as it has a larger positive terminal which i assume was due to a heavier gauge wire being used from the factory due to the bettery being 3m away. I added 2 extra earth straps as you suggested, one off the engine loom earth point direct to the negative terminal of the battery and one off the back of the head to the body in 12 gauge as i had some lying around. That is potentially 50 amps worth of better earthing. Marginal improvement generally so yes, it appears the earthing could have been better, but i still see battery voltage drop off by about 1.5V when the thermos kick in. So back to the original questions.... I've been told i can upgrade by about 20 amps without changing the wiring but would like to confirm it, and i still need to know what the alternator rating is.

In my case, all i had to do was prove that an rb25 was originally offered in an r32 and i got it blue slipped as opposed to fully engineered. All that was needed was a copy of the page in the r32 manual that states the engine types offered for that model The fact that it was de vs det didn't seem to matter. nsw though.....

I knew someone would have something to say. Thats waht happens when you have to rush a response I should clarify. I was mainly refering to throttle closed situations, not throttle open situations. When throttle is closed on gear change, you only want it venting when there is positive pressure in front of the bov, not everytime the throttle is closed. What you want is the spring to be stiff enough that it is only opening when you are making positive pressure as you change gear, if you know what i mean, or it will be open as you slow to idle and cause stalling problems. Partial throttle situations where you are making boost will cause a pressure differential if you have a slight lift off, which i also don't like

It depends on your setup really. If the bov vents to atmosphere then it absolutely has to stay seated until you acheive positive pressure or you will run into stalling problems. If the bov is plumbed back then you can get away with it being open at idle as there is vacuum in the plenum sucking it open, provided that boost pressure isn't also forcing it open at partial and full throttle and so wasting the turbos effort. I still like mine to be completely closed until it sees boost though, even though it's plumbed back.

I haven't had earthing issues in the past. I suspect the main culprit in my case is my adding of 2 14inch thermos which suck about 15amps each, combined with the 044 and walbro lift pump which are about 20amps combined, headlights, stereo amp, heater fan (which seems to make a fair difference to the voltage on the hand set). I will check the earth straps though in the mean time. Cheers edit: forgot to mention i swapped alternators from my old rb20 one to an rb25 one with a smaller pulley and got a little improvement but not much really.

All it is is a trigger that steps up the idle speed.

When everything electrical is on in my car the alternator is incapable of supplying enough power at idle to keep the voltage above 12 and so my pfc has a cry and won't keep the idle anywhere close to stable. So basically i'm looking to upgrade to a higher rated alternator. 2 questions: Whats the factory s1 rb25det alternator rated at in amps? And what can i upgrade to without the need to rewire half the car to suit the higher current? Thanks, Dave

It's not a particularly difficult job to drill them out. I just bought a new 18mm (i think) drill bit and drilled them on the car to fit some r34 gtt calipers to my 32 gtst. I didn't realise the 34 gtr also used the larger mounting holes.

It's a 32. r & r is no where near as intrusive as on a 33. I'd be looking straight at the coils and plugs.

You'll be well over 1k by the time you source and install everything listed. Consider that replacement of all the front end bushes including an adjustable upper arm will set you back about 400 retail, maybe a bit more with the radius rod bushes replaced with adjustables, and the rears are about the same. Installation of the bushes isn't that hard but removal of everything from the car and pressing the old ones out is time consuming, so expensive. Chuck in your springs and new decent shocks and you will be over 1700 before you know it.

Do you know what the pressure plate is rated at and if it has an altered pivot point for the diaphram? I found that my XHD xtreme was ligher than an HD. The XHD felt about the same as stock.

I must be the odd man out. My front right went about 6 months ago. Front left is still fine.

I ran my rb20 without it for a year or so. Started and idled fine, it would just stall approaching the same speed hump every morning So i got in the habit of clutch starting it once past the speedhump and it was happy to keep going after that.

If you have a gtst then gtr suspension won't physically fit in the back end of the car. You really need to check and find out the model of coilover as there are a couple of different ways to adjust the height. If you have NA's then it's circlip. I suspect you have a proper coilover though as you mention a second spring which means you probably have helper springs. They can be adjusted on car using a pair of c spanners to adjust the spring seat height. post a pic if you are unsure. There's plenty of guys here who can identify coilovers by sight

w00t! I ran into this problem today coincidently, on a mates cef that I wired about 2 years ago. Even though it was hooked up it wasn't supplying enough power to switch on the power fc. Took me ages to find another source that provided enough power while cranking but didn't set the relays clicking (in the same way as ryno's problem) when the ignition was turned on.

About the only thing left is to make sure that the ignition on signal that goes direct from the key to the ecu is still providing power when cranking. Afm could need power aswell. And you may also need to hook up the cranking signal to the ecu (but that isn't essencial and it should still fire without it) You know the injectors will fire when ignition is on, you know the fuel pump works and you know you have spark And that the fuel hoses are connected the right way I've made this mistake myself once.

No. The bleed will be tee'd to bleed boost off. The ebc has to be inline and will likely have the in and out marked on the case of the solenoid. In is the boost source, out goes to the actuator/wastegate

I think they think you are confused. The ignitor is connected directly to the ecu via 7 wires. 6 triggers and an earth. The 6 outputs from the ignitor run to the coils. I think it's the E pin but i could be wrong there What the guys are talking about is the ign relay which supplies power to the coils. This is the most likely culprit for your no spark issue. In a nutshell, make sure that the ign and eccs relays are getting a 12V feed. The ign relay will be connected to the + pin on all the coils. The - pins are all common earthed.

Your list is fairly easy to sort, the hard part is figuring which pins go where on the dash plug now that you cant trace it back on the old rb20 loom. 1) Idle step up requires an additional relay added to the loom which is triggered off the ac on trigger wire. This then activates the secondary idle air valve. 2) Cold start would suggest a problem with the water temp sensor as i'm pretty certain the wiring for the sensor shouldn't be touched. The circuit is effectively a signal wire and a common sensor earth both running to the ecu. I'd leave this one until you get the fc in and working and then check the water temp during start up with the hand controller 3) The power steering step up works on the same principal as the air con step up and triggers the same secondary iac valve. I haven't connected it up and have no problems with stalling at idle with the wheel at full lock. If you want it working, add a relay triggered off the plug that is attached to the rack on the passenger side. 4) Hicas needs a speed signal and that's it. It is supplied via your stock r32 speedo (it's actually on the back) and driven by the speedo cable. I suspect if you hook up the speed signal wire to the ecu (which is the problem in no. 6) this one will go away. 5) VCT only needs a power and a signal. Signal will be untouched. So find a switched power for the other side and voila.

I had to drop to a 7 heat range plug once i got up around 17psi otherwise i had a miss. 7 allowed me to run up to 20