BHDave

i dont mean new as in a new type, i mean new as in a new turbo. 2871 size turbos are fairly easy to find at that price which is a similar size turbo. Go bigger and you start paying a bit more though

If it is the castor setting an easy check would be to climb under and measure from the centre of the front castor rod bolt to the first of the 2 on the lower control arm. If one's shorter than the other then i'd say that it's all in the adjustment.

Excellent. Thanks mate. I wasn't sure if the extra x's ment anything

Shit, 1300's a good price. I had no interest at that price for mine. I ended up getting 1000 or 1100 i think for my old stage 2 highflow (which incidentally didn't surge on either my rb20 or rb25) The problem becomes you now have competition from new garretts at about $1300 not to mention the sub 1k highflows from slide.

Anyone know if an r32 gtr 24mm rear swaybar can be fitted to an r32 gtst? Are the brackets in the same location and do they use the same type of mounts (obviously they will use different bushes to suit the larger diameter bar)? cheers Dave

$120 sounds like a good deal to me. I recently spent a good 2-3 hours removing 5 snapped studs on a mates car. I would have gladly paid the $120 to not do it.

If you've done it before and were happy to have no hicas, heavier steering and and poor return to idle the by all means chop it in you new car.

try the old plug lead in jammed into cylinder 1's coil pack and then connected to the plug trick. It's a good check.

I have. The car would be shocking from about 3.5-4.5k and then pull to redline like you wouldn't beleive. I didn't think it was coils either, so i played with the tune and sometimes it would drive perfectly (usually only a quick fang up the street to get an af reading, followed shortly after by a quick test drive) and other times it was a bucket of crap (drive to work).

you can cut a v into the side of the plugs so that they actually clip on if you have just got some regular old denso plugs. They foul on the lip of the rail otherwise.

I think he got rorted. Even adding the rb25 box requires minimal custom work. The tail shaft is the most expensive part. Just use rb20 mounts bolted to the 25 block for the engine. Simple really

The wastegate simply can't flow enough to maintain a lower boost, which you have proven by wiring it open. I suspect maybe the factory dump is not allowing as much air out as an aftermarket one would when you consider it is angled pretty sharply back into the main pipe, but it's just a theory.

some nissan sensors use different pins on the plug for power/earth signal, so may have been unlucky and stuck one in with the pins in the wrong spot. check you original sensor, it should have a red, white and black wire. Make sure that the new sensor has them in the same order. The black and red can be swapped around as they are only for the heater element but the signal has to be right.

It's a damper on the back of the fuel rail, the reg is at the front. Unfortunately i have no idea how it is connected though.

is your pfc saving the settings?

yes it does. It's made to adapt the t2 style turbine outlet to the rb front pipe flange.

The first thing i'd do is check that the return line to the tank isn't blocked. If it isn't move on to step 2 To get that sort of pressure (without a blocked return line) your reg would have to be stuck shut. I have an 044, stock reg and have base pressures below 40psi. Don't get a reg before checking the return line! Oh yeah, you fuel hose probably wont be too happy with you either at those sort of pressures, partiularly if you haven't replaced it recently.

If i tell you will you promise that you will throw them away and never put them back on your car? The top very green pads are forodos bottom of the line $50 a set shitters. They are poor. I got a set to keep my car on the road while i waited longer than expected for a set of project mu's to arrive. The rears look to be the same, ferodo, bottom of the line. The next step up is the zero i think but that has a "z" suffix on the part number whereas i can't see that on yours. Ok for the back but nothing special.

the light will be on because the pfc defaults to boost contol on and it doesn't have the kit installed so throws up an error/warning light.

My money is on the one at the back being for the map sensor on 33's (it's for the factory boost gaige so not important). The larger one at the back goes to the brake booster. The front one i'm strugling with, i'd have to look at the engine.

I checked my apex chart and it shows the nissan 370's as .64, the 550's at about .67 and the 740's at .66 So thats where my .02 came from. Either way, if it's tuned right then a slight difference in lag time will make little difference as lag is added to the open time to get a certain amount of fuel. From my basic understanding of the whole thing (and i could be wrong here) Say for example that the engine needs a certain amount of fuel to acheive correct a/f ratios, then the ecu triggers the injector for a set time (lag time) plus the user (or tuner) entered value of say 3.00ms for an example. With stock injectors it will provide power to the injector (according to my info anyway) for 3.64ms. chuck in a set of 740's (double the size, makes it easy) the injector needs to be powered up for .64ms (stock lag) plus difference in lag (.02) plus 1.5ms (due to the injector being double the size not considering all the fluid dynamics and stuff involved) so total powered time will be 2.16ms. If you have a different lag time (say .12) with the same 740cc injectors, to get the same amount of fuel in you will have .64 + .12 + 1.4ms (user/tuner entered) for a total powered time of 2.16ms if you get my drift. The only thing that i'm missing is the point in time when the injector gets powered up as i think that will make a difference, particularly when you are talking about such small open times, what i'm getting at is if you input a really big lag time will the injector be powered up earlier than with a small lag time or is the opening time fixed and the closing time altered? If it opens too early is the fuel hitting the back of the valve rather than getting pulled/puhed into the cylinder?

the iD 3 is a later model. it has individual gain and duty settings for each boost setting, where as the dsbc only has 1 gain for all 4 boost settings. neither has self learning. they are set dependent on duty and gain and thats it. I have a dsbc, it works well. I have mates with iD 3's, they also work well. I'd take the iD because of the individual gain settings if i was choosing between the 2.

I'd also like more info on the td05/06. I have always assumed it was another name for something like a td05-16 or 18G with an 06 20G compressor as it wouldn't make too much sense to go the otherway.

I'll try and remember to check tonight. If the lag times that you have listed are corrent then you will be right. I just seem to remember .02 for some reason. Either way if you have a higher number and the car has been tuned with those setting s in already then there shouldn't be a problem.

It's something that seems to creep up on r32 gtst's with age. Mine never did it, and then one day i realised it had a few little flat spots when cold, and about a year later it was worse, and felt as if i wasn't applying constant pressure on the accelerator (even though i was). It stopped above 4k too, which lead me to beleive it was to do with the closed loop control and the cold start not liking each other very much. Possibly o2 sensor related? I'd be interested to see what it is, as i never solved it myself (it wasn't my major headache at the time). I just dropped an rb25 in instead and it solved all my problems