BHDave

There is a significant difference in the rb20/25 manifold compared to the rb26 manifold (other than the stud pattern). The most obvious is that the 26 manifold looks to be a lot more compact (obviously to clear the TA45 vs the T04e that the other rb's got). I had a look at the 2 side by side when i was picking mine up. I'm running a T300s (with a .7 cover) on a low mount rb25 manifold and it took a bit of work to make it fit in my r32 but i got the bastard in there with a little cursing and a lot of bashing. Not that that helps you

Don't do the external coils. You will only save yourself a couple of hundred dollars for something that is a bit of a punt. Splitfires can be had for well under $600 lately if you buy from perfect run. The aussie dollar is above 85 yen atm so you will save a mint.

Put a CA in it and pull the coil out of cylinder 4. Then not only does it sound like a 427, but you have the fuel economy to match

my rb20 o2 sensor was identical to my rb25 one. If the thread is right then it will work.

Thats good. Just had me worried when every bit of documemtation i have seen on poly bushes specifically says don't over tighten, and by the amount they deformed when everything was tightened up i figured it was the same thing.

But whats even freakier is an entire thread in the general discussions section without the words "flutter", "BOV" or "misfire"

I had a similar issue, except neither side wanted to play. I was wondering whether gtr and gtst have different brackets and that was the issue? I was more concerned about the bushes deforming too much and eventually tearing once i did get the brackets back on the car after a lot of swearing.

I had issues but i think it had more to do with poor manufacture. Basially the rear flange was slightly angled so i could never get the thing to seal properly at the top until i replaced my cat converter and had the new one custom fitted.

I saw one sitting on the shelf at mu secret a few months back. give them a go, www.musecret.com.au I also noticed that my regular exhaust shop had a few flanges hanging on the wall that looked remarkably similar to the pro S style flanges when i was in buying a few bits and pieces last week. Thats Sureflo in ingleburn NSW though so not a lot of help. Any decent exhaust shop can get a flange made to suit if you take the turbo in for them.

I have been reliably informed that it will fit the housing but the splines on the out put shafts are different to all the other vlsd diffs so you have to use the s15 ones. I have seen it done in a couple of s13's. What that means for skyline owners is that you will also need to swap driveshafts. In an r32 not so much of an issue as s13 6 bolts shafts will fit. The extra cost of the shafts and the reduced drive shaft diameter may be an issue. Thats what's put me off that idea.

Next step is a fmic, and unfortuately thats the end of the pov mods. Turbo, injectors and ecu are next. You will need a turbo to make 180 as the stocker doesn't like to play much past 160 odd. An rb25 turbo will do it though and they are cheap enough.

I also ran into valve float at about 21psi. It started around 4k according to my tuner. That was on an HKS t300s turboed stock cam'ed s1 rb25 making about 240rwkw up top. I've got my rev limit pegged at 7300 more due to worries about the stock rods than the valve train.

It might be a thermostat. There is no other reason for it that i can see as it isn't a remote mount setup so it is a fair assumption. Just remembered that ca and rb use the same oil filter so no thread problems

Worst case you will need a different threaded section for the sandwich plate, but i suspect they use the same thread. You will have no issue with the length of the lines, and the core will likely need some custom brackets made up anyway as mentioned by usherly.

Thats because it's in jap. Run the page through a translator to get an idea, it'll be a bit rough though. http://www.google.com/language_tools

It really depends where it is knocking. If it's on over run then not a major concern, or if you are bouncing off the limiter then it isn't uncommon as the pfc cuts fuel creating a lean condition

Did you buy the car with the current radiator setup on it, or have recently swapped it and the overheating issue has started since the swap. Does it overheat when driving on the freeway or at a reasonably constant speed? If it doesn't cook when driving there are a couple of quick things to check, 1) that the fan has the blades around the right way to pull the air through the core (or push if you have it on the front) 2) That the factory thermo mounted to the front is still working (it should kick in at about 90 degrees). I suspect that it is an airflow issue and the single 14 can't pull enough air through the core as it's a pretty thick unit On a general maintenence front, it's worth checking that the thermostat isn't stuck shut if it overheats no matter what and also run a flush through the system to clean out any scale and shit from the block.

If you already have the uprated pressure plate i'd really consider either a re-puk of the friction plate if it's a puk type clutch obviously or a replacement full face plate. It's easy to do while it's all apart

When you talk about the whiteline kit are you talking swaybars and bushes (handling pack)? It would be worth checking out the group buy section as there is an r32gtst buy on atm i think. As for coilovers, there are heaps, i wouldn't recommend many of them for street work, as the spring rates are way too high. You are really just going to have to do a lot of reading and gather peoples opinions on the various types available and what sort of driving they do. Also consider the whiteline spring and shock combo if you will only ever see street driving. The wheels are less important, sure the 34gtr rims are nice but they will be difficult to fit and are bloody expensive to boot, mainly because they look hot!. Some second hand jap lightweight 17's will be your best bet as far as cost/performance goes.

If the 2500 includes the engine, then do it. If your mate is charging you 2500 for the install only then punch him in the chops. I installed my own and including the cost of the engine had it installed, wired and running a new timing belt and water pump for about 2500 all up. I still run the rb20 box. If i were you, i'd consider spending money on suspension and tyres at this point as you already have a fairly nice setup that only really needs an ecu upgrade to give a nice responsive 190rwkw. A stock r33 engine will put you back to the exact same point you are at now with only a bit of bottom end poke added

Standard is 1:1. I removed my malpassi during tuning aswell and went back to standard.

The kai is good for about 215rwkw on an rb25 with near stock response. The car in question is pretty bloody quick, dont let the low peak power fool you. I haven't been able to find specs on the turbo either, HKS only have specs for the old one on the web site. Whatever hks did to it they killed the top end as on the same dyno with the same tuner an sr with old 2530 made about 225 the day after the rb25 was tuned

No way. If you cant afford to buy it, you cant afford to run it, and there's no way you are going to respect it. If the kids don't have a job then there would be no way they'd get one as you know who would be paying for insurance and repairs and petrol. Treat it as a life lesson, there's no free lunch and when i die there will be no inheritance!

With your budget: 3inch turbo back exhaust, get a knock off front pipe, new 3inch cat and second hand jap 3" cat back ~850-900 installed, or consider a full x force system for about the same money. Intercooler and piping kit off Nissan Silvia sponsors for about 450, install yourself. If you can do your own pipework you will save some money there. Second hand r33 turbo, install yourself 350-400 plus $50 for gaskets. Leaves you with about 200. Buy an adjustable actuator with it. The car will run reasonably well assuming your fuel pump is ok, if not another 200 to replace it. Find another 3-400 and have a chat with dr drift about a remap of the stock ecu. Forget about the emange, forget about the head gasket, forget about the garrett turbos, forget about the bov. you cant afford them with your budget. This is based on your initial 2k budget. It'll cosy about 2.5k though. With the 3k you could look at s/h highflow turbos

I also run super streets and am happy with them. I can't comment on the G4's other thna the spring rates seem high, but steve has addressed that above. Just be aware that prices from perfect run and nengun are ex tax and duty, so its a bit of a lottery if you get stuff cheap or if you get stung by customs. It is the importers responsibility to pay, so if it is being shipped direct to you, then you are the importer.