BHDave

I can only suggest getting another opinion. A random dyno run at another workshop and another tuners opinion won't hurt before commiting to either injectors or engine rebuild. I'm still a bit concerned by what he has said, particularly about the injectors only being at 80% when the pinging starts, yet your log shows you can easily push the car past that point as it stands....

Mate, he's yanking your chain. 2-3 years ago there were a heap of guys from perth claiming big numbers from wolfs and stock injectors. Simple fact, 370cc/min injectors cannot flow more than 370cc/min at 100% duty. More fundamentals.... Make him guarantee it. Make him agree to the engine rebuild at his cost when it all goes pear shaped because you don't have enough fuel at 1 bar and the engine pings itself to death.

doh, i've said SP instead of SR again.....

wakefield does, but you need your own pressure gauge

I had dunlop dj01s (i think) on the front and some old bridgestone re55 on the rear. They were on a set of wheels i bought. noisey as f**k. I never bothered to check the type but i'd hazard a guess that they were hard compound (SP on the old re's) $250 rim repair when they suddenly decided to let go on me one cold morning while i was driving around a roundabout about 2km from home. I've driven home from wakefield on my current re55's once when i couldn't be stuffed swapping wheels at the end of a day and they certainly weren't quiet. SP2's all round. I don't think you could call them fantastic in the wet. I'm quicker on my street tyres around a track in the wet until there's a reasonably dry line.

235/45 re55's are a big tyre. they will not be stretched on a 9 inch rim. i would say they are close to a 255 street tyre in width. I have run semis on the street and i will never do it again. terrible when cold, scary in the wet.

If those are peak values than you are clearly out of fuel if it's pushed any further. The 3 (maybe 4) important ones there are 1) peak rpm of 5625 is still 1200 less than the stock rev limit so it would use more fuel if reved higher 2) 13.4psi is nothing. the turbo will happiliy stuff 20 odd psi into the engine if you let it and use more fuel if the boost is run to make decent numbers 3) duty is at 85 already so you have no more head room to play with already not even considering that you haven't really pushed it yet and maybe 4) as i'm not 100% on this one but if the wolf is reading throttle position as a percentage you haven't even given it 2/3 throttle... So even as it sits right now i think it is unsafe and if you do decide to give it a hit you could potentially cause damage. This is basic stuff and it should have been brought it to your attention. get the fuel pump and injectors sorted as a matter of urgency and turn the boost down in the mean time. You should have an adjustable actuator so wind off some preload.

yeah, i'm tops. Just ask my mum. Now that you've said that i'll be very very disappointed if you dont.

can't, crashed.... there's only so much you can pull out of a 255rwkw r32gtst before you bin it

i wouldn't be overly concerned for a streeter but i wouldn't track it. It's pretty unlikely they will shatter or anything catastrophic. Probably warp on a track though.

I hope for his sake he's reasonably quick. It'd be a bit embarrassing if he was slow.... Isn't andy mac a British comedian?

even lansvale is a fair hike..... though not far from the office so certainly an option if i can arrange a trip in there thanks for the input guys

you can use either alternator, though you may need to drill out the eyelet on the cable to suit the 25 one you only swap the single wire temp sensor as that's the one for the dash, oil pressure is probably the same but you may as well swap it just in case. The rb20 computer is easier and cheaper to get remapped but does not support vct. If you were going to use a 20 computer i'd use a 20 loom as well and the 20 sensors, ignitor, afm and replug the injectors, iac etc just to simplify the whole thing. Add in a separate vct controller if you want to retain it and trailer it to your tuner to get remapped and tuned. Or go the 25 comp and loom which requires redoing the dash plugs and power feeds and a bit of messing about with the wipers ac etc. With either you would have to add the wiring for the secondary idle control valve as it's not controlled by the ecu in the 25 anyway. If you aren't looking for a piggy back of a stcok rb25 ecu or an rb25 pfc then i'd stick with the 20 ecu and loom if i were to do it again now. I went with the 25 ecu and loom as i had an intermittent misfire issue and wanted none of the original components to ensure it was resolved. It was also a lot harder to get a decent remap when i did mine so wiring to suit a 25 ecu made sense when the pfc's were readily available and cheaper than 20 ones. What actuator are you talking about? rb20 and 25 actuators only have 1 signal....

go a 44mm tial to be on the safe side. There's a manifold for sale in the classified atm thats already done to suit for something like 140.

Nope. the internal gate .63 is rubbish, the .63 with decent boost control would be fantastic, which is why i never considered a swap to a .82. While i respect Gary's opinion, i disagree, as i have watched my car see 20+ psi below 3k with no hint of surge and i have close to 50rwkw more between 3 and 3.5k before it evens up by 5k It's not for everyone, but it works for me. My car was track driven so it only really saw WOT. The .82 is actually showing worse response than my old plain bearing T300's (T3/4) and makes less power as well but i'm sure at light throttle it would be chalk and cheese. horse's for courses i guess

his used the cropped turbine so no real comparison. Great result though. mine has boost creep and tails off to 1 bar

i have a gtst one in gunmetal. original paint, straight, stock wing. sydney though.....

The issue is through the midrange, it stabilizes at the top end as the compressor starts to run out of puff and the amount of exhaust that needs to be vented via the wastegate is reduced. I'll happily state it here after playing guinea pig, DO NOT buy a 3071 in .63 IW housing for an rb25. It will not work. We now have 3 people with boost control issues, me, MR.E and -33-. I've spent the extra money on the 38mm wastegate flap which didn't entirely solve the original issue and added a new one. It sounds like MR.E has as well. I would only recommend the .63 if you were to go the ex gate route.

edited Yep gary is running the .82 housing and surge modded compressor housing.

Just make sure you make it around the kink. If you don't there's nothing to slow you down before you hit the tyres. Don't worry about turn 2, there's kitty litter to pull you up if you go in too hot, and seriously, you have about an extra 20m of track beyond the point where you should be getting off the brakes and turning in which is heaps unless you are sliding on someone elses oil. Advice on the track itself; There are 2 lines through the kink, the wide line where you stay about 4m off the apex and brake in a curve to effectively take turn 2 wider and the straight line where you straight line from the apex of the kink to your turn in point at 2 and it makes turn 2 a bit tighter as a result. Take turn 3 as fast as you can, don't worry so much about your line into turn 4. If you are back somewhere around the middle of the track when you turn in to 4 you are doing ok. If you can make it all the way over to the left again before turning into 4 then you are losing a heap of time through 3. 5 is just a regular old corner 6 i turn in late and hug the ripple strip down the slippery dip before braking in a curve into the fish hook. You want the car parallel to the right hand side of the track at the point you turn in to the fish hook. There's an access track that comes off the side of the track at that point. turn in as soon as you pass it and clip the ripple strip on the apex. If your car is a typical skyline it will probably drift to the out side here if you are going quick so just ease onto the throttle and keep it on the track and maintain the turn. You want to come out of the fish hook on the left half of the track to give yourself enough time to get right over to the left before turn 9. Regular apex but cut it as much as you're game to do. Lots of time to make up with that one as you can carry all that extra speed down the back straight. And turn 10. brake late and when you think you're about to drive off the end of the track turn in. You want to clip the ripple strip on the inside as you are coming onto the straight. It's probably less important in a 4wd NA but you really need to keep the car pretty straight on the exit of 10 or you just turn the tyres and lose time in a rwd. It's a slow in fast out line and great in the wet too. i've driven away from evos in a 160kw silvia with that one in the wet Thats my rubbish advice. It's probably useless until you have driven the track, but if you read it afterwards something may click. Hope some of it makes sense. My good advice. know your limits, keep an eye on temps, and if the car starts to act up pull in cos it'll only get worse. drive your car home. Driving on the track is not like driving on the street. When you start you'll be stunned about how wide the track is, by the end of the day you should hopefully only be seeing that one car width where you should be. raps has good advice for learning lines quicker, just don't assume that the guy doing 16's has the right lines because he's trying to copy a guy doing 12's who's copying a guy doing 10's etc etc Enjoy!

If you have a look in the group buy section you will find both radius rod bushes and upper arm bushes available in sydneykid's r32gtst group buy. Are you talking front or rear upper arm bushes btw? If you are stuck i have a set of nolathane bushed front uppers for sale at the moment. They have done maybe 5k on the car.

adapter plate on the manifold, custom dump to suit the turbine outlet flange, custom lines, compressor outlet flange adapter to suit the 3 bolt outlet, compressor inlet flange adapter to suit the 2 bolt inlet, custom piping to suit, oil drain will need work. The problem is that they were made to bolt up to an sr. There are no comparable fittings on the rb, even the oil drain sizes are different between sr's and rb's. You have the potential for compressor surge on top of that as the rb specific gtrs has the anti surge mod where the sr one doesn't....

simple answer, it'll be a pita. Lots of custom and dollars I can expand on that if you need me to....

it's either for looks or because there isn't enough space to fit it low mount. from a performance point of view you want it low and as far back as possible (ie COG and weight distribution concerns) but for 99.9% of people it makes no difference.

bingo! it cannot suit all of the applications he has stated. From some of the above posts it seems it is an rb20/sr20 box style shifter which is not compatible with rb25 and 26 boxes he is a scammer. report him to ebay and hopefully if there are enough reports he gets proper f**ked.