BHDave

Stay away from the vg turbo. it will probably make the power but it is fairly laggy due to the large exhaust housing. Why are you running a highmount manifold with a stock turbo? Sounds like a fair bit of work for little to no gain? Id save a bit more and get a new garrett turbo or a high flowed rb25 (theres one for sale for about 1100 atm in the private sales section). If you really want to swap it now, the best compromise will be an rb25 turbo. It'll almost make 200 and retain reasonable response.

The ignitor is on the coil on the s2, not in the ecu. The r33 power fc is the same model number for both series 1 and 2 which means pinouts and out/inputs are identical.

could be, i never really paid enough attention to figure out where the plumbing ran to.

I've seen rb20 rails with single regs and dual regs. From what i've seen the earlier ones only have a single one at the front. my 92 gtst had one at either end.

instument cluster. The speed signal sender is on the back of the speedo.

It takes the car a good 5 minutes to realise it has no signal. Mine still throws it up occasionally if i have the car idling in the driveway for too long.

The hicas controller is getting no speed signal. i assume your speedo still works as you havent mentioned it, which means either the sensor on the back of the cluster has spat it, or someone has chopped the speed sensor input to the ecu.

Thanks mate, you're a wealth of information as usual. I think i'm going to have to do a bit of reading to try and improve my general understanding and will definatley be having a chat to gcg before making a final decision.

I'm thinking seriously about a hks 3037 in a non gated housing but the issue is that hks skip the t3 flanged inlet in their ex gate turbos so i was going to be looking at a custom garrett based equivalent. the hks turbo runs 52 trim comp 55/76.2 inducer/exducer and .6 cover with an 84 trim 60/55 turbine. hks offer a variety of 5 housings from memory starting around .6 up to 1.xx, where as the closest garret, the 3076R only offers 3 different housings. the 3076r has a 56 trim comp aswell where i would prefer to keep the 52 trim based on some of your earlier posts regarding the difference in response due to the change in trim, and hence the custom jobbie. I want to remove some of the guess work from the selection of the exhaust housing size, as i will be getting the new turbo to make more power obviously (and better transient response due to bb core as opposed to my current bush core). If I was to select a .6 odd housing for example, would i be choking the turbine side and not making the most of the bigger compressor and ultimately have a setup that is laggier than a 2835 based turbo but makes the same max power, say 275-300rwkw roughly, which is around what i'm chasing. What i'm trying to figure is what is the best combo that can give me around 280rwkw with minimal lag and best transient response but has a bit of headromm to just crack 300rwkw if i decide i want to go further. I'm not after a specifc number but i want to find the best compromise between power and response and decide from there. That and i like having formulas to work shit out

It's the backpressure issue i'm getting at. You can get the turbine map as well as the compressor map but the turb one is generally ignored and it's just a general statement that smaller for response, bigger for power. There has to be some way of using that turbine information combined with the compressor map to get a more accurate idea of how the turbo will perform on a given engine. I dont disagree about finding others with the same setup, I'd just like to look at it more critically is all in an attempt to improve my own understanding.

Has anyone found any documents or equations in their travels that allows you to accurately gauge the effect of the turbine map on the compressor map? Other than the obligitory big A/R = poor response, small A/R = good response. The problem i have, is we can all figure whether the comp wheel will be able to flow enough for our power goals and then plot a few intermediate points through the map using fairly readily available formulas but it all falls apart in real terms because you are only looking at half the picture. And it really falls on it's arse if you choose the wrong turbine or turbine housing for your application. What i'm trying to figure out, is if i move from my prefered .63 housings (yes i like response and am willing to for go top end for it) and picked up a .8x housing will i then be looking at say 300 rpm more til the boost threshold but gain 25rwkw for example which would be acceptable or would i add 700 rpm and only gain 30? And how is my choice of .63 housing skewing the comp map by causing a huge restiction in the exhaust and so limiting flow potential? Anyone? :

I have nothing against coil overs in general, i just have issues with unknown brands of coilovers that seem a little cheap. I have tein super streets and am happy with them. The spring rates listed for the G4's are excessively high for anything other than a drift car. Street driving would border on painful and they'd struggle maintaining contact between the wheels and the road when braking on rippley corner entrys.

Series 1. The difference in price isn't proportional to the difference in performance. But if you can get a series 2 plastic compressor version for around 350-400 i'd get that.

I've seen 2 SR's producing around 230rwkw on about 1.2 bar with versions of the TD05 18G, one was internal gated SH and the other was an ex gate version.

The g4's are still a bit of an unknown where as the bilsteins have a proven track record. I had a quick look on JJ's website a while back and was a bit shocked about the posted spring rate of the G4's aswell.

As am i. No unnecessary bells and whistles, just a good simple controller that does the job well. My only gripe is that my version only has one overall gain setting but this was changed to have adjustable gain for each setting in the later models.

The only possibility will be the gtst NON m spec or someone got a base model optioned with the turbo option from new in japan

Twin plates are all modular so it should be a matter of finding an authorised dealer in which ever model you decide to get. I know that os giken offer a few different versions of their rebuild kits that range from just new friction plates, to all intermediate plates, friction plates and pressure plates, and you can still get cages and flywheels separate aswell. Parts can be sourced through otomoto. Just have a look at prices before commiting to a purchase. A full replacement kit for mine including friction and pressure plates was about a grand from memory. That was a TS2A which is the smallest twin plate offered by OS.

the mu scr pro has something similar to the kangaroo paw, though just short straight sections as opposed to the more diamond shaped dba type. There area also a lot less vanes in the scr pro, so reduced weight. And they are pretty 2 piece rotors. C'mon roy, i know you have a brake fetish!

noltec sell an adjustable upper arm that uses poly bushes. Tuneagent sells a pillow ball type. Ikeya formula is the only adjustable lower arm one i have seen, and there are quite a few tie rod extensions available, also from tuneagent i think.

SOLD! Thanks to everyone who pm'ed

First step would be to check that it is still getting power from the ignition on pin 45 and also whether it is still getting the constant battery back up. Try www.petroject.com.au the parramatta branch definately does work on pfc's but there are branches all over australia which may also be able to help.

Bump price drop to $300ono

Ouch! that works out at 450 for installation based on what i paid for a set about a month ago! Retail is only $1865. Seems a bit pricey to remove 12 nuts and replace if you ask me. It'd want to include a 4 wheel alignment at least. For reference, the first time i ever swapped struts it took under 2 hours from start to finish with no outside help. That included removing and reinstalling the boot trim

I've had a lot of success with keeping all the bolt in but backed off about half a turn, supporting the comp cover/core in a vice (not too tight but enough to support it and prevent it spinning) then using the handle off a hammer inside the turbine inlet and levering it to break the seal (for lack of a better term). the bolts prevent it from trying to come off at an angle and damaging the turbine in the process. Once you get it going it's pretty easy to spin it/remove it completely.