BHDave

the iac is on the back of the plenum. It can get a bit clogged up so it's usually just a matter of hitting it with some degreaser and cleaning it out. If the car is sitting and you turn on the air con does the idle increase at all?

A couple of things to check would be the iac valve, ac on input and out put connection to the ecu (which controls the idle up). It could also be something to do with your tps or it's adjustment.

Hi guys, as the title states, i have a set of second hand tein struts for sale. They have travelled close to 50k on my car and were bought second hand and are in reasonable condition with no obvious leaks. The rears are height adjustable via circlips at the bottom seat. asking $400 ono pick up in sydney only. Cheers, Dave Edit: ok ok i get the message, $300 ono

I think your hicas has dropped it's bundle and is turning the rear wheels at random if it is only sometimes. It has happened to me, so i shimmed up my rack (r32 though). I think the 33 will need a lock bar?

? He's asking about a tailshaft not a gearbox bearing. It's been a while since i looked at one and my memorys a bit sketchy but it's not a hard job, unbolt the tailshaft at the centre mount and the diff, slide it out of the box, take to the centre uv with a couple of spanners and split the tail shaft in half. There is a big nut that holds the flange on that you will expose when you split it. Undo that and slide the flange off, then slide the bearing off. It may need persuading with a big f%$koff hammer. Installation is the opposite of removal, just make sure you mark everything beofre disassembly so you can align it all properly when putting it back together. If you have the back of the car jacked up you can get away without dumping the gear oil everywhere when you remove the shaft.

It all depends on whether you are willing to change the plugs 3 extra times per 40k. The copper bcpr6es-11's perform as well as the iridium or platinum for less than a quarter of the price, it's just that the copper life span is closer to 10k rather than 40k. Personally, i'd slap in a set of iridiums or platinums as changing the plugs is a bit of a pain if you a have all the stock gear on the car. Also if you are just going to drive it and not play too much.

kinda, but you really want to get a multimeter to test. what you have shown should work though the ecu will need to be plugged in for it to work as the ecu will ground that pin.

I didn't comment on the turbo inlet flange before, but it looks to be common t3 sized so you shouldn't have an issue. You can always wander into gcg or garrett with the manifold and ask to trial fit a t3 flanged turbo. check the centre to centre spacing of the studs, T3 is 86mm/43.5mm (long/short side), T2 is 73/38.5.

Hks just happen to list the exhaust housing sizes for the 2835 in cm2. Lucky boy. But the bastards don't make ex gate t3 inlet flanged turbos anymore http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...Flanguage_tools

the relays will be working because you are powering up the other pins, there's no point in swapping it. to check that pin 16 is working just jam a probe in there, earth the other one and check for continuity when the ignition is switched on. If thats working and it is all hooked up correctly and you still dont have the delay, the next step is to make sure that the power going to the relay is constant and not a switched ignition as well. You can run a temporary wire straight off the battery to the power in pin of the relay.

Is there a delay between turning off the key and 49, 59 and 109 dropping power? There should be. 45 should click off instantly. As your's is an engine swap, just check to see that pin 16 is triggering the eccs relay.

In a nut shell yes. Though you can get your exhaust shop to make up custom flanges for you to if your in a bind and cant find any off the shelf As the manifold is cast it isn't as easy as lopping off the flange and welding on a new one. It does look like the wastegate flange already has an adapter on it as well which you should probably remove to tidy the whole thing up a bit. Where you will benefit though is by having the adapter you can cutsom make it to fit the wastegate pretty much where ever you want to mount it. And atleast you know the manifold won't crack.

That was all fine too. Installation of the splitfires had everything running perfectly both on and off boost with no other changes. What model coil are you running james?

92's ok, mine was fine with an r33 highflow and it's a sept 92 model. lines are cheap anyway.

CHECK THE WATERLINES!!!! I can't believe there are all these responses and no one thought to ask whether it was an early or late r32. Late rb20 has the same size banjos as the rb25, Early rb20 does not. You may need custom lines for it.

Did you get the things working properly? I tried in vain for a good 6 months with an almost identical setup and tore them out in disgust by the end. Works fine at the bottom end, the increased smoothness was nice but mash the throttle, or make any more than about 4psi and it suffered complete ignition breakdown. Seeing as i was in denial, i tried the following (not necessarily in order) rewire power direct off the battery using 20 amp cable - no improvement Swap ignitor from rb25 to rb20 - no improvement Swap rb20 ignitor for 2 CA ignitors - no improvement Swap fuel pump, fuel filter, remove emanage ignition loom - no improvement Swap in a pfc - got worse as the car made more power with less boost due to the slightly aggressive base timing map which made the miss occur Rip out external coils and reinstall stockers - massive improvement but still missing rip out stockers, install splitfires, reinstall rb20 ignitor tidy up wiring - fixed. I was in denial as i had a mate running the same setup on both a CA and SR silvia with stupid rich mixtures, plug gaps out to 1.4mm and no missfire.

It's the cars way of saying "i hate myself and i want to die, how could you do this to me!" It's probably trying to hit any solid object on the out side of the corners in a vain attempt at suicide.

the clicking is your vct as when the idle fluctuates you are crossing the engagment point. nothing to worry about.

A busted pcv valve wont pressurise anything as there is a straight vent on the rocker cover running to the inlet pipe. The pcv valve is an emmisions device that it sucked open by vacuum in the plenum and it is blown closed under boost so under boost any blow by will go out the breathers anyway.

You have to remove the whole rear light assy so you can access a few screws on the back side of it to take the cover off.

Due to the increased volume of fluid being moved and the altered bias as a result of the caliper change i'd be swapping the master. If you have swapped on r33 brakes all round then a 32/33 gtst master is the go. If you have maintained the s13 rear brakes then look at an s14 master as it has the 4 pot front, single pot rear combo from factory. That way you have a master that can cope with the changed brakes for both volume of fluid moved and bias.

It will require a custom dump due to the 2871 having the 5 bolt turbine outlet as opposed to the 6 bolt t3 type. It will require the t2-t3 adapter as mentioned. It will almost certainly require oil and water line changes, and the oil return has a different flange on a t2 turbo so thats an extra. You will need a custom elbow off your compressor outlet to join into the rest of your piping. That said, i have seen one of these turbos make 240 odd rwkw on an rb25.

petroject in parramatta can service/repair the power fc.

I have replaced bearings in alternators before. If you can do without the car for a couple of days it's just a matter of pulling the thing apart and pressing the bearings out. I think it cost less than 30 bucks for a front and rear bearing from cbc (one was an odd ball one so took a day to get). While it's apart replace the brushes which are easily gotten from any decent auto electrician and is usually whats at fault when they aren't charging properly. This was a mazda alternator though. Total cost of under 60 bucks for what is effectively a new alternator.

not really a big job. It's pretty easy to check the pins and see if they are getting power. pin 45 should get power when the ignition is switched on. That should then ground pin 16 to trigger the eccs relay, that will then power up 49, 59 and 109. If your relay is triggered directly off the key then you will have a problem.