BHDave

you have a wiring issue. The original settings have been memorised as they were inputted prior to the issue showing it's ugly head. The problem will most likely be that the pfc is switching off immediately when the key is removed, which means that it isn't writing to memory any changes made. The first thing to do is check that the ecu is getting the ignition on signal (pin 45) as this is what tells the ecu that the car has been switched on/off and to write to memory.The ecu will maintain power for a second or so after you switch the car off (assuming it is properly wired). It's this signal that also tells the ecu to kick in the eccs relay and hold it on after the engine has stopped. The constant 12v is just a back up but the ecu will run off it. This is a big issue in cars that have had engine swaps as the car will run fine without the ignition signal so it tends to be forgotten.

1) You can tee the boost pressure signal into the line for your stock boost gauge. I think it is a 3mm hose and there is a nipple on the back of the head for it. I also run my aftermarket boost gauge off the fpr line, though i wouldn't want to start running multiple things off it. Some don't like it, some do. The good thing about having your boost gauge on it is it is really obvious if you have blown the hose off as you have no vacuum at idle showing on the gauge. 2) The pressure inlet to the solenoid that you have mentioned will be fine. If it doesn't work right then the easiest way is to get a nipple brazed into the compressor outlet pipe.

I'm running the titan Kai's or HC plus (it's one or the other, p mu has recently released some new version pads and discontinued some others). Mine are the current generation 0-800 rated pad anyway. I also run p mu scr pro 2 piece rotors. I have no complaints. Cold stops are good (but not great. once warm they are fantastic. I haven't had them fade once, but i haven't had the car on a track either. They are a bit dusty, a tiny bit noisey at slow speed with slight pedal pressure. They shit all over my old rb74s for performance.

I'd be installing everything you can, start it up without the dump and do a quick bleed in 2 mins or so (it won't be perfect but atleast drivable). That way you know it runs. tow it to your exhaust shop of choice and get the work done. drive it home and bleed it properly. What are you doing about intake piping? If it needs to be custom then you are in a bit of trouble.

What type of manifold were you considering (high/low)? It's pretty tight in the back corner of the engine bay but if you mount the turbo high you will have a heap of room. Even mounted low and forward as far as possible there is a reasonable amount of space behind the exhaust housing. I think the biggest issue would be making sure the turbo isn't mounted in the centre of the available space but over tight to the block as well (or even angled slightly to bring the exhaust in closer to the block). You would then have room to loop the wastegate pipe around between the front pipe and the inner guard and mount the wastegate right down low and upside down with the outlet pointing straight at the back of the car. Alternately, mount the turbo out a bit with the wastegate pipe tucked in close to the block. That would also give you mounting options for additional supports.

$1850 through shift performance in lansvale

The fuel pump can be accessed from the boot. Remove the carpet and you will see a cover on the right hand side with 4 bolts and a small metal cover that protects a plug. remove them, and you can access the top of the fuel tank and you will see the top of the fuel pump carrier.

The speed sensor is on the back of the speedo and driven by the speedo cable. It'll fix itself when you swap in the new speedo cable.

I use graphite/lithium on the thrust bearing carrier and a tiny little bit of high temp bearing on the end of the spigot (so that it isn't leaving goop on everything when installed) with a little bit more in the end of the crank on the bush. lithium/graphite will overheat if used on the spigot.

I was wondering what that bank of batterys in the boot were for Anyway, the ecu has no input from the fuel level sender so will not be effected. It doesn't give a shit if you run out of petrol in the middle of nowhere

Sounds like a slight misfire which isn't uncommon. Change the plugs first. A set of copper bcpr6es or bkr6es will cost about 20 bucks. Or pull out your existing plugs and check that they are gapped correctly. Factory recommended gap is 1.1mm, gap them down to .8 as you will be running a bit richer with the mods you have which will contribute to the miss. Then start looking at the coils. There's a sticky thread at the top of this section all about them.

The map sensor is on the firewall just to the left and up from the brake master cylinder looking from the front. It should have a 3mm hose running to it and a plug on the bottom.

+1 or 2 and -4 is generally what is recommended, but this is realy only a starting point. You you may be willing to sacrifice response for power which will mean a different setting. Ideally you want to set it up on the dyno and do a few runs to see what effect (if any) each adjustment makes and make an informed decision from there. As for adjusting, just loosen the locking nuts and turn the engine with a socket on the crank pulley and tighten it back up when it's in the right position. Just be careful that you check that the engine will turn over without valves hitting pistons before restarting it each time.

Just my opinion (which is inline with what alot of the others are saying) You can get a screamer dump that will fit up to the stock turbo, typically the splitter in these dumps is not a tight fit in the back of the turbo so your car will sound like it has a constant exhaust leak (because it does) even when driving around normally. If you have a stock exhaust you may see a power increase because you are allowing the excess exhaust gas to bypass the restictive stock cat converter and mufflers. If you have a decent 3-3.5" exhaust with a decent cat you will see no gain as the exhaust will easilly outflow what the stock setup can push through it. They are highly illegal for both noise and emmisions reasons in NSW. Some sound nice, some sound like arse (mine sounded like arse), you will also be surprised how early the wastegate starts to open which means alot of noise everytime you come on boost which gets very annoying very quickly if your car is daily driven. My personal opinion is put the money towards a catback exhaust first, then get the cat and a front/dump pipe. As i've said earlier, there will be no gains from a screamer once you do this.

Does it by any chance have overboost protection similar to blitz units where the duty cycle is dropped by a preset amount when x psi is reached? from you description of the response your gain is set very high as well which could also be contributing.

type of boost controller?

do you mean manifold to turbo or turbo to exhaust? I am assuming manifold to turbo from your description. Not a difficult job, obviously requires the removal of the turbo to replace the gasket. You can also do the turbo to dump gasket at the same time. Both gaskets will cost you under $50. You are paying for labour as it is a 2-4 hour job depending on familiarity.

Assuming the the thinking behind the NA 33 brakes is the same as s13 brakes (which also have a banjo) the banjo has the same thread and can be shortened to fit into the 4 pot caliper with no problems.

It can be done using the stock engine bay piping but you will still have to replace all the piping below the inner guard. You will have to make a pipe that crosses back behind or underneath the core and you may find that there isn't alot of space (depending on your car), particularly if you are using a typical 600x300 core with bottom inlets. I did this originally with a 400x300 core on an r32 without cutting the front bar or reo, so it can be done, it's just a matter of thinking about where the pipes are going to run before mounting the core. You will end up with an extra 600mm or so length over the typical over the radiator route of piping though.

the end tank design on the far end doesn't look the best for flow and the top pipe will end up pointing straight at the mount for your front bar reo. I noticed they had an apexi looking core with a crossove type outlet which would be considerably better flowing but the down side is that you end up with 2 feet of extra piping compared to the regular across the top of the radiator method.

the ebc you are running has a boost cut. check where it is set and what the gain reduction is at that point. it sounds like your problem

I fitted a t300s low mount hks kit to my rb25 r32. It required some minor mangling of the engine mount (it's an rb20 mount though). However i have also seen a t04e mounted on an rb20 that only required the removal of the sheet metal piece from between the top of the rubber mount and the bottom of the engine mount (if that makes any sense?) The comp cover of the t04e is a .50 from memory and is a fair bit smaller. The r33 uses a different mount to the 32 and appears to be a bit thinner and they mount flat at the base which should put them well away from the compressor inlet on a t04e kit. Ive added a pic of the t300s and the slightly bent r32 engine mount to show how close it is but in all honesty i dont think you will have a major problem with fitting the t04e, also considering it is only a 2.5 inlet as opposed to the 4 inch on mine.

Keep the 4inch cat back. Your mate has no idea what he's talking about. On a turbo engine (actually any engine) you want the least back pressure possible from a performance point of view. Even in a NA engine the scavenging effect is due to the runner length of the headers and collector design, not the backpressure in the exhaust. The only reason the get rid of your current cat back is if it is too loud/drony for you to take in day to day driving. Anyway, you don't need to spend 1-3k as you already have the exhaust. A one piece front/dump pipe and a decent cat (say 3 inch minimum) is all you need to get/replace. Thats well under a grand.

I'd remove the cas plug and crank for a few seconds to get oil up to it first. then fire it up.

Nice. Out of interest, what sort of afr's wer you running on cruise and wot to get so much carbon on there?