BHDave

It's also worth looking at the plugs on the cas and air flow meter. I had a problem similar on my last car that turned out to be a pin on the afm having a bad connection

You've also got to consider that it's a bit of a circular system, that is air in air out. If you WOT it in first it takes all of 3 seconds to go from 1000 rpm to 7000rpm. You aren't going to spin up a reasonable size turbo in that time to the point where it's making a lot of boost. Then take the 5th gear on the freeway response trial that we all like doing. You plant it at say 2500rpm and within a second or so the car is making a couple of psi, that extra gas flow into the engine is going through the turbine side and speeding it up so at 2600rpm, 100rpm higher which in an NA car means squat in terms of extra airflow, you have started to spin the turbo at the point where it is actaully starting to push a bit more air into the system and you are making 4psi. Then at 2700 you are making 6psi and all of a sudden the turbo is helping itself make a decent amount of boost as you have more air going in, bigger bang, more exhaust, spins the turbo faster and boost starts to rise rapidly. It's easy to see this on a typical small engine big turbo setup. It will take forever to make 5 psi but once it passes that point (or somewhere around there) the turbo is feeding itself so to speak and the boost rises exponencially (sp?).

If the hose is blowing off it's possible that there is a boost leak there aswell. Replacing the hose with a decent one (either reinforced rubber or silicone) is a pretty cheap bit of insurance. But i doubt that's your problem. As cubes has said, either modding the stock actuator or getting an aftermarket adjustable type will help hold boost to redline and so make some more top end power. Something else worth considering is adding a bit of base timing. 1-2 degrees max. You don't really want to do this unless the car is on the dyno to check for ping though.

search for "r32 rb25" it should yield some decent results

Do another search, seriously there's a 25 into 32 post atleast once a month. But seeing as it's a friday and i'm bored at work: 1) Use the rb20 engine mounts on the rb25 with rb20 crossmember 2) R32 driveshaft can be used but needs to be shortened and a new yoke and uni's installed to fit up to the 25 box 3) A brake upgrade is a good idea as the 33 has bigger brakes. rears are the same. 4) Use the r32 power steering pump and bracket to avoid hassles with the lines 5) Yes. (search ) rb20 dump fits. did i mention search? There's a bit more to it than you think, but it's not particularly difficult. Wiring is the fun one.

I've found that the bigger single pintle injectors are a bit louder, but i would call it clicking rather than tapping (yes i'm a pedantic bastard). my 550 rx injectors (both s5 in the rb20 and s6 in the 25) are considerably louder than the stockers.

You can run your fuel pump directly off an ignition source in a pinch until you can find the right pinout diagram and then rewire it correctly. This assumes that the rest of the pins are the same, as cranking the engine has nothing to do with the ecu.

The oil pressure drops to nothing because the engine is stopped and so not pumping oil around. It can drop to as low as 10-15psi at idle depending on engine speed. It is probably stalling because you have short intakes and the afm's are copping a bit of reversion off the comp wheel of the turbo. It's not a major issue.

That should just about do it. You can get away with just a regular old 3 inch cat as opposed to the metal cats. There won't be a hell of a lot left in your injectors but it's easily do able.

I've seen a set of sr injectors high flowed up to 690 or so and they seemed to do the job. Like all aftermarket injector swaps it just needs the tune to be adjusted to match. As paul has said, your car sounds like it is running stupid rich. An adjustment on the injector correction will get it close and then a touch up of the maps and you'll be fine.

It's a damper that stops (some) vibrations in the gear stick. Your's is probably just flogged out from a previous owner not knowing how to use a gear stick, nissan replacement will solve the problem. You are the only person on any nissan forum i read that has had a problem with this part. I'm 99.999999% sure that if you replace it you won't have a problem with it again.

When you say the thread is different, do you mean different pitch and spacing? or just a longer threaded section so it is bottoming out? I really hope you don't mean different pitch. If the banjo bolt is simply too long, grind a bit off it. You dont want to pack it with washers.

I'd just turn the engine over slowly with it loose. Bit more effort to turn it but alot less work than pulling off the cam covers. Once you do lock it in place, turn the engine over by hand a couple of times to check for any contact between pistons and valves. It shouldn't be a problem with stock or low lift drop in cams but it pays to be paranoid sometimes.

Have you considered getting a line made from somewhere like pirtek or enzed to fit the adapter and then remote mounting the temp sensor? It wouldn't be much different than mounting the sensor in a remote mount filter. It would also be a lot easier than having to remove the entire sump and welding in a fitting. On a side note: Aren't the pressure sensors usually the big ones? My temp sender is tiny in comparison to my pressure sender.

remove the hose running off the right hand cam cover to the intake pipe and plumb the catch can in there. While you're there. Check that the stock blow off valve has a plate or something installed underneath or it will be venting under boost (assuming thats your engine).

I'm running the same as SK but in a 7, so BCPR7ES, gapped at .8, also rb25.

You seem to have identical response to mine when i ran a highflow on my rb20. Unfortuanely the shift between 1st and 2nd drops you below the boost threshold (as more than likely you will have the tyres spinning through first) which is something you just cant fix short of installing some form of antilag system. What should be happening is when you plant it in second it will break traction when boost comes on about 4k. And the 2nd-3rd shift should keep you on boost with minimal lag on the shift. Unfortuantely you have to be on the ball now to drive it quickly, you have to keep the revs up and run it out to redline and your engine will get tired as a result.

It's 5/16s you want, NOT 3/16.

lol....

The 2 monsta turbos are probably a bit bigger than you want to run on an internally stock rb25, not withstanding the unknown quality issue. The gt28rs is probably a bit small (and t2 flanged) something like a 2871 with one of the bigger exhaust housings would give a good result (ive seen 240 rwkw on an rb25 from one) but also it is t2 flanged so requires a new dump, adapter plate, oil and water lines, oil return and possibly a bit of custom work on the intake side aswell. Once you cost all that up it is probably about the same money as ripping your turbo off and sending it off to GCG for a highflow then bolting it back on when you get it back. No messing with lines, dumps or piping and good for 250+rwkw.

A couple of questions and a couple of ideas/suggestions: What actually happens above 6k? Does boost increase rapidly above the 14psi you have stated or does boost stay stable and the car just all of a sudden has a spurt of power? And does it build boost to your base pressure (which i am assuming is 7psi) by 3k, then stop, then start building again after 4 or does it just slowly build right the way to 14psi? Your ebc will be doing nothing to help at this stage. you're trying to run boost at a level lower than the actautor can do by installing something that bleeds air out of the system. And i'm assuming you are still running a stock r33 actuator and have blocked off all the unused factory hoses and are only using the boost signal off the factory position (which is on the cool side piping?). By running the stock actuator on an aftermarket turbo you have no guarantee of stock boost levels. The whole rb25 actuator has a 7psi spring arguement is a bit simple as you are talking about a spring with a spring rate and a preload and a diaphram with a certain area and volume. If boost just slowly builds all the way to 14psi then you have the same problem as a lot of guys who complain about excessive lag on aftermarket turbos, just you are thinking about it a diferent way What i would suggest (don't worry it wont cost thousands) is get a new aftermarket adjustable actuator. It has a heavier spring and you adjust the boost level by playing with the preload by shortening the arm. I'd accept the fact that you probably wont be able to run as low as 7psi and set your actuator (remove the ebc temporarily) for around 11-12 psi by shortening the arm until its a few mm shorter than the stocker and then stretching it over the wastegate pin. This is the first step in trying to get stable boost as opposed to me telling you to run more than you want. Once you have installed the actuator and have good boost response and it's stable, then it's time to start reducing the preload in small increments, and then when you get it back to a point where you're happy with the stability and the boost level for day to day driving, then reinstall the ebc and stat messing around with higher boost levels. bit of an essay there but hopefully it helps some. And it all assumes the problem is the actuator rather than wastegate creep! That's a whole nuther issue that needs the turbo out again

What about the bcpr7es as opposed to the bkr7es, the only difference is the length of the plug really. i run bcp's in my 25. I think that may have been what cubes was getting at as well. EDIT: Who said bc's cause misfires in skylines? rb20 and 26 both use bc's from factory (obviously the platinum ones) and i have never had a missfire issue that could be blamed on the type of plug. I've seen a couple of cars that didn't like copper plugs at all though...

zoom ran the boost 98 10% ethanol blend (i think it's from united), not shell 100. I have a united about 1 minute down the road and they sell it. I have been thinking about running a tank through and seeing what happens, maybe even use it on my next tune when i get cams in (though i'll talk to the tuner first)

Your problem sounds very similar to mine when i installed external coils. The car was fine off boost, ok up to about 5psi at partial throttle but as soon as i put my foot down i would experience what i could only describe as complete ignition breakdown. No acceleration at all and it happened instantly. Long story short, i checked everything except the coils (as i bought them new and had seen the exact same model work perfectly on a CA and SR), swapped cas, upgraded fuel pump, ecu swap, ignitor swap, pulled the injectors and cleaned them, replaced all filters, the lot, no change. In the end out of desparation i wired the stock rooted coils back in and the car was instantly better (but still far from perfect), so i ordered a set of splitfires, installed them and haven't had an issue since. I think the problem will most definately come down to the coils. If it can be fixed by adjusting the dwell and firing time, great. If not then it may be worthwhile swapping in a set of stockers for a test.

The dsbc has a boost cut function. This has a peak boost where the cut happens and a duty that the solenoid drops to for a second or 2 before going back to normal. If you have set your gain too high then it will spike, ebc goes "SHIT! better cut this" it drops it down to nothing for a second or so then tries again. I would be looking at your boost cut settings as they are probably set very close to the max boost you are running so a cooler night will allow you to overboost and also the duty reduction setting as it sounds like it has been set pretty high, drop it back to 5 or so. the screen will flash red when it over boosts and it will beep at you. All this relates to the old dsbc by the way that only has one level of boost cut and one gain setting, the newer ones have multiple adjustments for each setting so you may find you're boost cut in the low setting is too low as well?