BHDave

You can modify your existing tailshaft. A specialist like hardy spicer (they're in sydney unfortunately) can do the work for you. Best to speak to someone before hand to find out the measurements they require so it can be done once the engine has been dropped into the car (so you can measure) but while you are still finishing everything else (so it doesn't hold up the process). They will have a new spline section and yoke and uv joints in stock to make it all work. I've seen 25 boxes go for anywhere between 1000 and 1500 from importers. My 20 box is still alive with 238rwkw so i don't see a swap as really necessary myself.

lol. sorry, for everyone i confused there i will elaborate. The conversion is much simpler from a mechanical point of view if you keep the rb20 gearbox as you use the rb20 engine mounts with the rb20 gearbox and mounts so it all lines up. If you want to swap in the rb25 gearbox you will need to modify the tailshaft and gearbox mount so it adds to the complexity of the swap. You also have to mess around with the speedo drive. No matter the gearbox used you will need to carry out some modifying of the engine loom. You can do it a couple of ways, either modifying the rb20 engine loom by changing a few plugs on the engine side and adding/swapping a few pins at the ecu so you can plug in the rb25 ecu or my prefered way which is use an rb25 engine loom and modify it to plug into the rb20 body loom (2 under dash plugs and the main power feed near the airbox in earlier model gtst's, 4 under dash in later ones plus adding a dropping resisor for the fuel pump and wiring in a water temp sensor for the climate control). Which ever way you do it, keep the rb20 section of loom that runs to the gearbox, alternator and oil pressure sender.

rb25 box needs a modded tail shaft and a modded gear box mount. If you keep the 20 box you dont need to change these things.

The intake temp probe just sits next to the air filter, so assuming it was a bonnet up run i wouldn't expect more than about 10 degrees different even with an unenclosed pod no matter the time on the dyno. However, if the bonnet was down it is probably a legitimate power figure for an unenclosed pod.

If you are using the 20 box then the hardest part is the wiring. It isn't a plug in swap. Best get the wiring diagrams, a multimeter and start tracing the 20 and 25 looms. The mechanical part of the conversion is as per the write up in the above link.

7s will work fine at that boost and power

Holy crap! I wouldn't have thought something like that could cause the problem. congrats on sorting it out (and cheaply too!)

I get anywhere between 19 and 16 (when the air con is on). All gauges will read a little differently but as long as you are around there somewhere you're right.

yay! gotta love response. So the big question now is: when's the tune?

Sure, but like everything 10% of the damage will be because of the type of clutch and 90% will be the way you drive it. A heavy clutch wont f**k the box on it's own. If it has a heavy pressure plate it may bend the clutch fork, snap the pivot, or cause premature failure of the hydraulics. If it's unsprung it may damage the gear faces and eccessively wear the bearings if you have a lumpy idle. If it's a puck type clutch it will wear the stock flywheel more than an organic (not that you have this problem as you get a new flywheel) So unlike the other guys, i'm willing to say you won't kill your diff or box solely because you've installed a twin plate. If you've installed a twinplate behind a 400kw engine then it's a different story as now you can transfer all that torque and tear the teeth of 3rd gear

enjoy. I'd use .2 or zero and just leave the injector correction at about 52-54% until you get it to the tuner. rich is safe(er). SideFeedInjectors.pdf

push.

picsorban

You'll find that most operators don't really start loading up the car below 3k so it doesn't give your turbo the opportunity to start building boost as it would on the street. On the dyno i hit 20psi by 4k, on the street it's more like 3200.

I'm trying to figure out why you did it that way randy. The pcv is only open when the car is in vacuum so sucks oil vapour in under low load. There is little or no risk of ping in this situation. Unfortunately, when the pcv closes due to positive pressure in the manifold all the oil vapour still gets blown/sucked into the turbo inlet and coats the pipes and intercooler (reducing it's efficiency) and increases the potential for knock as oil reduces the octane level of the inlet charge.

lol. I got my project mu rotors and pads from them. They are well priced considering you are paying duty and gst.

I run an identical fuel setup but with rubber hose. I haven't noticed a fuel smell in the cbain but it is definately there in the boot (i have kept the rear seat in mine to block out the 044 noise).

I'm running bcp 7. I noticed no difference between the 6bkr and the 7bcp at startup or during cold running. And the 7's didn't break down and miss once i wound inthe boost About the only thing i have noticed is if i start the car and move it out of the garage then shut it down it will usually start on 5 the next time until i blip the throttle a couple of times. Cubes is right about the height thing, though why the 20 and 26 run bcp's and the 25 runks bkr's from factory (well the platinum versions) i dont know.

SR's with r200 rear ends run 3.9s i think. Maybe it's worth buying a full unit second hand, swapping out your internals (or even getting an aftermarket lsd) and selling off the 4.4 r33 diff on nissansilvia to some wannabe drifter?

It's too big for run of the mill earthmoving equipment. Maybe some of the really big gear run up in the mines in FNQ. They tend to get painted too. Maybe diesel train, or boat.

Try unigroup at girraween. They have tuned a lot of rb powered cars and offer good prices. As the car is running, it will likely only be a bit of a touch up (depending on how the current tune looks) so you could get a surprisingly cheap quote.

It will be fine. I mounted the original fmic on my r32 like this. You wouldn't be able to do it with a wider core as you don't have room for the 180 degree bend. If you're not worried about the engine bay looking stock then run the cool pipe up under the battery tray and across the top of the radiator and save yourself a couple of feet of piping.

It's thinner by 2mm

All 33's with 25's had VCT. the RB25DE in the 32 didn't have it

Nah, there are a lot of little differences. I think it was blind elk who ran a modified rb20 loom with an r33 ecu? I modded the 33 loom to the r32 body plugs. The underdash plugs are a headf$%k to get right and i had to add a couple of the r32 plugs to the loom to run the water temp sensor for the climate control and also the fuel pump dropping resistor and also wire up the main power plug on the passenger side front near the airbox. It's a good days work if you have done Nissan wiring before. A bit more if you can read diagrams but aren't fully familiar with the way nissan likes to do things (things like earth triggers and the like)