BHDave

On your first photo you can see the large slot on the right of the pivot ball. That should have clean square edges, it looks like the edge has been damaged, and thats where the bits of metal are from. Nothing major to worry about, it wont affect anything as long as the little bit's of metal are cleaned out.

It's probably worth getting a new piece for it while it's working as it is likely to happen again eventually. The other thing is the metal filings look like they have come from the top edge of the grooves on the right and left hand side of the pivot ball. How that bit has been broken i dont know but its likely a result of the stick coming loose and so moving further than designed.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...71_452203_1.htm you mean like this one? It's also a fairly common arangement on hitachi, mitsubishi, and as a result trust internal gate turbos from the mid 80's to the mid 90's aswell. The v band arrangement isn't uncommon either. You're talking about a turbo that is obviously old tech (at least the core) but it makes it's claimed power apparently and it costs bugger all. It doesn't mean i want to go out and buy one as i think you would be better off getting something a little easier to install (read common t3 exhaust arangement) and so save some money there that can then be spent on the turbo itself. What i do like about these turbo's is they are obviously aimed at the performance enthusiast on a budget, the same as the china intercoolers and the china manifolds and the china radiators and the china coilovers, they offer 3 versions to suit your application, they have warranty, and they offer install if you can't do it yourself (which means warranty support).

All i know is it's a little cylinder shaped thing about 12mm in diameter and about the same high (i could be completely wrong on the dimensions by the way). It has a hollow centre that is shaped to be a tight fit over the ball on the bottom of the stick

If you dont have an r33 one it will be quicker and cheaper for you to get one made. I knocked one up out of a bit of 3mm plate steel, a 2 inch 90 degree bend and a 2-2.25 flare in mild steel. Took me all of 2 hours from start to finish.

Can you please confirm when it happens. Either when you are accelerating with the accelerator held in one position (which would be surge). The car would then like to bounce back and forth and generally act silly. Or when you lift off so you get a bit of flutter (reversion) before the bov opens. Or when you do a partial lift off the throttle when on boost (so all of a sudden all the compressed air can't get past the partially closed throttle body) and then it bounces around and acts stupid again. You'd have to have modded the stock bov and blocked the bypass for it to do this though.

These thing's pop up on a forum from time to time. Whats so hard about putting a spanner on the sump plug? You've got to get the car up in the air anyway, which is the hardest part. My three reasons for not spending the money. 1) 12 years of car ownership and i haven't had a leaky sump plug 2) I don't know how many oil changes and i have never bothered replacing a copper washer as ive never had a leak 3) As above and i have never stripped a sump plug. And i bet my 14mm spanner was cheaper than the valve and has a few more uses

Why did everyone jump to the conclusion that it was clutch related when the guy is telling you the problem is with the gear lever? The first thing to do is pull the gear stick out and check that there is still a little white nylon thing attached to the bottom of the lever. While you are removing it i suspect will find any other possible causes of your problem. It's about the only thing i can think of that wouldn't cause a leak short of major internal damage as you would probably tear the bottom gear boot if you managed to lift the shifter out and it's un likely that you have damaged the circlip when you have screwed on your new gear knob as you aren't applying any pressure to the circlip, but rather the locating pins for the lever pivot.

I agree with security. If it costs a couple of grand to fix you can still sell the thing for a minimum of 10k without rego. There's a bit of mucking around either way though.

Thanks for the heads up cubes. I did this today as part of my whole upgrade intercooler/radiator/thermos package seeing as i had the fmic and front bar off anyway. I went with a davies craig 14" which from the pictures is fractionally smaller than yours (and almost double the price). I could fit it easily without removing any lugs or the bonnet latch (it actually just slid behind the latch support and held pretty tight). How deep was yours, it looks chunky? Mine was just on 75mm which just cleared the back of my original intercooler so should clear the new one aswell. I'm still deciding whether to wire this one up to the original A/C plug or wire it in through the thermo switch for my other fans. I think it will be a bit of a waste to only have it come on after the others seeing as it's the biggest of my 3 fans

I just did it tonight, 600x300x75 core will fit behind the support on an r32. If i wasn't worried about half the core being completely covered by the bar i could even reinstall the the stock front bar (not a type m one either) without cutting it to clear the core. In order to try and get a bit more air flowing to the top of the core i will be removing the bottom of the reo bar and about 1 inch up the front of it and making a bit of a guide out of sheet alloy. Thats the plan anyway. I'll probably get lazy.

If it's not overheating when driving around, but does when in traffic then your issue is most likley the thermos. What size are you running and how are they configured? Ideally you want to get the biggest fan(s) you can fit purely because they can blow/suck a lot more air than a smaller one (davies craig claim that a single 16 can flow more air than a pair of 12's). Also, the fans can have the blades flipped over and the polarity of the wiring reversed depending on how its mounted. It would be a good idea to check that they have been set up correctly for your mounting style. And last. Most fans seem to do a better job when blowing air through the radiator rather than sucking it through. If you can mount your fan infront it may help a bit too. And flush your radiator while you are at it. Good luck, overheating sucks arse.

The piece you have is supposed to sit inside the end of the cable. There is a little lip in there that wears over time. You'll see it when you get a new cable.

Jack the car up, spin the wheel and listen for the noise. Then remove the wheel and check the hub for up/down play. Mine made more of a rubbing noise when it was shot (as water had gotten in past the seal). It had no play though. You can get a new bearing from nissan for not much at all. You will need to get the old one pressed out and the new one installed. I can't give you a definate price as i removed the hub myself and had a mate press the bearing out and install the new one for nothing then reinstalled the hub myself.

It happened to me twice in the space of 2 weeks. first time i replaced the speedo cable (the bit you have falls out on all of them eventually, it should be captive). The second time i replaced the cable and the speedo drive as the original one ate a s/h cable in 2 weeks (actually under 500kms) the speed sensor is on the back of the speedo so when the speedo goes, the hicas goes. It comes back when you replace the cable. In the mean time you can get away with putting the cable back together, it'll work for 50km's if you're lucky before it falls out again.

The cheapest new coils will be a set of splitfires, roughly 600 delivered from perfect run or nengun or greenline. It's probably the best solution in the long run for you.

32 or s14a. don't even consider the early s14 (ugly) Obviously depending on km's and condition. I personally prefer the look of a 32, but the sr does alright.

Have you kept the factory restrictor on the oil feed?

Are you letting the revs bounce off the limiter at all (~7k gear change)? Does it do it if you short shift at say 6-6.5k?

Not quite. There are still variables that have to be entered by the operator (such as the barometric pressure as mentioned), as well as the temp correcton on the intake temp that can be used to fudge results. Something for you to have a look at on shootout printouts is the difference between room or ambient temp (RT or AT) vs intake temp (IT) and consider that an 8 degree difference between ambient and intake netted me about 10rwkw on the print out. I'm often a bit sceptical when there is a difference of more than 10 degrees considering mine was an unenclosed pod and the car had completed about 10 200rwkw plus runs and only recorded a difference of 8 degrees. I recently saw a 250 plus rwkw s14 go through the same situation with the same sort of temp increase. As a result, that is often the second thing i look at when a dyno sheet seems to be a touch high (first being the power figure).

If you have gone through the side wall then it's a goner. Same goes for all tyres, not just the space saver.

The s15 wheels will most likely not clear your front calipers. I fitted r34gtt callipers to my 32 and had to remove some material so theyd fit inside the stock 16's. And punch your mate in the head for running on bald tyres. Or better yet, give me his address as i am also in sydney's west

And the big question is: Who's car is blowing the blue smoke?

I've seen this problem a few times in the last couple of months and every time it is the actuator, either set too loose (when adjustable) or still running a stocker. This is on cars running decent ebc's aswell. As for the highflow on an rb20. I ran an old stage 2 GCG and had 14psi by about 41-4200rpm using only an hks adjustable actuator. The current highflows are a bit more responsive than those ones. nF, you'll find the boost curve will be an almost vertical line once you start winding boost in on the highflow. It will slowly build up to about 6-8psi over 1000 rpm or so and then just shoot up to what ever you decide to run in the next 200 (big turbo/small engine type response). You probably wont be able to spot the difference in spool time unless you plot runs back to back on a dyno.

Unfortunately it doesn't. the bolt pattern is different.