BHDave

Don't chop the speed signal wire. It messes with the steering weight, can cause issues with stalling and the hicas doesn't work. It doesn't automatically lock either, it actually flops around (for lack of a better term) when loaded up when cornering unless you shim it up. The oil pressure gauge uses a pretty common tapered thread. You can get a tee piece from a hydraulic supplier and tap into the stock pressure sensor location. It is quite likely that it is the same size thread as your old KA seeing as rb and sr's have the same size thread but different factory sensors. Best to remove the sensor and take it with you (it's not a hard job). The correction is 1- (270/440) or (270/550). Series 5 rx7 injectors are the ones you want, they dont need a dropping resistor. Idle will be crap unless you get some decent aftermarket management. safc will probably run either of your choices ok, except for the idle of the 550s.

Are you talking about the tie rod end or the ball joint on the lower control arm? Tie rod end is sold as a unit. They aren't expensive. Ball joint on lower arm is held in with a circlip by the look of it so should be removable.

The elbow that comes off the turbo is different between the 2 turbos. An rb25 turbo with the elbow will put the outlet in near enough the same place as an rb20 turbo with it's elbow though so the rest of your piping will be fine.

To optimise it, yes a retune will be required. At the least a dyno run after messing with the position to make sure your mixtures are ok.

yes you can still use the monitor setting, it just limits access to the tuning side of the ecu. You think i'm joking about the kinks don't you? Mine doesn't like kinks/twists in the cable and doesn't get past the start up screen if it is too twisted.

Check for kinks in the cable

I ran them, my idle was a bit ordinary but not too bad. Throttle response was fine. s4 injectors require a resistor, s5 dont. they are about 100% bigger, you probably couldn't drive it.

If nothing else has been touched and the install of the cams has netted a gain of -80rwkw then you had better take a look at the cam install. plain and simple, not pointing fingers, pull the front covers off and make sure the base cam timing is correct. My money's on the cam gears being out a few teeth (it won't be the first time), or a massive boost leak second. The most basic problem solver question in the world: What was the last thing i changed before everything went to shit? It has served me well for the last 29 years

They are a standard delco sensor, you can get one from almost any efi specialist, or holden (but you cant get a plug from holden)

I think someone hase chopped it on you. Mine has the slotted bit that covers the whole pad and a solid one that sits behind it as you describe but they are both the same size. If the shim is so short that it is only sitting half way down the piston i think you should be looking for a new set. if it makes it past the pistons then there's nothing to worry about

have you confirmed that the ecu isn't sending the eccs trigger signal. And confirmed that the ecu is getting the ignition on and cranking signal? If it is getting the ignition signal then i suspect it is a faulty pfc. If it isn't then time to look at why.

I find mine will switch on if the car is stationary for 5 minutes. It will also light up after about 2 minutes if there is no speed signal getting to the ecu, i found that out when my speedo died as the sender is on the back of the speedo. The steering weight goes to shit too. so the obvious, check the power steering fluid level (there is no separate hicas reservoir in an r32), check that the speedo is working, check that the speed signal wire hasn't been cut in a stupid attempt to remove the speed limiter at the cost of many other things (like functioning hicas), and check that the speed signal sender is working properly (thats one for a pro).

The metal pipe at the back of the block is a water feed. Get a treaded bung from a hydraulic fittings joint (take your old banjo bolt in as a template for the thread and size) and block it off at the block. The other water line runs from the back of the head. Remove the rubber hose at the inlet manifold and get a rubber bung and a hose clamp and block it off. The oil feed is the metal hose with the spiral in it. You will need a custom one to fit your turbo most likely. You will also need an adapter that will bolt to the top of your turbo and has a treaded section in it to accept either a screw in fitting or a banjo bolt. See link below. http://www.gcg.com.au/Catalogue_Menus/Turb...d_-6fitting.htm Your oil return can likely be reused as it looks like you have a t3 based core same as the stocker. One question. Where's the wastegate supposed to go as it looks like you have a non wastegated exhaust housing. For everyone who wants to run a line between the water line fittings when you go to a non water cooled turbo, think how it's done on a NA rb. I can tell you now there isn't a random line running around the back of the head.

I'm after a front right five stud hub/upright assembly for a 32 gtst, preferably in sydney. The bearings in mine are shagged and you've got to remove the thing anyway to press the old ones out so i just want to swap it over. cheers Dave

I have a 20 flywheel on a 25. If there's a difference i can't find it. Even aftermarket clutch kits for 20's and 25's have the same part number.

It's possible i suppose but probably harder than just removing the turbo and doing it on a bench, also the potential to damage the turbine wheels is considerably higher. Have you thought how you are going to get the exhaust housing off the back of the turbo and off the manifold studs without bending your lines to shit though? Considering new copper washers for you banjo's will cost you maybe 50c why make it difficult for yourself?

You didn't put k&n in there which is probably the most popular aftermarket filter on the market for the simple fact that it can be cleaned and reused. The apexi's are one use only by the way (though 1 use is good for 20-40k) and do a very good job of cleaning and have high flow. Blitz, you may as well run no filter, i've seen a 5k old turbo look like it's eaten sand after using a blitz pod. The blades were rooted.

Then it's probably been installed wrong. What boost did the car make prior to installation of the dsbc? Check the little switch on the back of the unit is set to "ac" and not "wg". The stock 32 actuator should make a maximum of maybe 12psi before dropping back to 10.

Turn the boost controller off. That way it defaults to your actuator pressure only. That's the lowest boost you can run without modifying anything.

It depends what you have it running. If it's just stock injectors and afm, just chop it out, reconnect the afm signal and drive like normal, it will likely be a bit rich if anything. If it's running bigger injectors or a bigger afm, keep it in until you install the pfc.

I know of one with a 2871 making about the same

The bottom one is 300zx/32 gtst, not 33. 33 (and 34)gtst calipers are much chunkier looking without the round bits where the pistons sit The pic below is of a 34 caliper on an r32gtst, the 33 looks pretty much the same but sit's a little further in due to a smaller rotor.

Mine wasn't, swapped all 6 no change, i also swapped ignitor, ecu, rewired ecu to ignitor,swapped ignition loom, regrounded everything, swapped cas and afm, removed emanage, which also required swapping back to stock injectors. In the end i got the shits and got an rb25. Problem solved

How's the cat? could be blocked and causing a fair restriction in the exhaust.

Is it only when on boost or completely random? Miss on boost has been covered many times and can be found by searching, most likely causes are old plugs, old coils, too rich. Random is a pain in the arse, and you are in for a world of pain trying to track it down.