BHDave

60amp is a big relay for a fuel pump. The 044's only pull about 15-20amps max.I'm running a 40amp on mine as i had one lying around. I've noticed that the bigger amp fuses (EDIT Should have said relay here but i had fuses on the brain) have a diode built in (typically 30amp up) as mentioned by SKYBEE. Something else worth considering is the way the relay is mounted. A 60amp relay has a (relatively) heavy set of contacts. If it isn't mounted upright they can stick easily due to gravity. I've seen this problem with the factory relays located next to the ecu in the footwell as they were mounted upside down. Turned them 90 degrees and the problem went away.

Narva are cheap but don't last long

$40 from gcg is the price i've paid for my last few

I don't know about other people, but my external gate had such a horrible note that i plumbed it back in. That was an HKS low mount manifold and HKS 38mm ex gate.

It could be surge (but i doubt it), it could be a bad miss due to bad coils or really rich mixtures. Eliminate the possibility of a miss first i think. Get it on a dyno for a power run. An experienced operator will be able to tell you exactly what it's doing.

I bought a set of cheap r33 gtst front coil overs the other day as they had alloy strut tops and springs. I didn't expect to be able to use them on my r32 anyway, but i figured the bits were worth the $50. Turns out one strut was bent Anyway, got bored last night and decided to see if they fit and they do. They even had enough adjustment in them to get the car as low as it currently sits but it was as low as it could go without the spring flapping around. The only thing i could think of was that the travel would have been pretty short. Is this the reason the r32 and r33gtst fronts are different?

I had mine set for about 12psi (.8bar or so) It could have gone lower again with reduced preload. I never had it spike. I think the max they can do is about 1.1 bar without some form of controller (and you'd have to be a strong man to get the thing hooked up with that sort of preload)

Probably the first thing you need to do is see what other housings are on the market that will fit it. As it's a pretty small turbo i would expect an rb20 or 25 stock housing (machined to suit) would be your lowest cost option (thats assuming it will bolt up to the back of the hks core). I suspect the exhaust housings that will fit will be gt25 style though so you will be up for an adapter plate aswell

My mates actuator stuck on his td05 as the shaft angled slightly when the wategate flap was open and so jammed the shaft against the bracket. You dont have any factory boost contollers or that sort of thing hooked up do you? And how is the actuator plumbed in? Can you remove the boost contoller from the loop completely as a test?

The thing that bothers me when looking at the dyno print out is that the power is already rolling off before the car even hits max boost. And it seems to take forever to hit it. It may be a whole different story on the street as the settings on the dyno may not load the car up like on the street. Something else to consider is there is no shootout data on your printout and so (i assume) no correction. In most cases correction pushes the figure up. For example, an 8 degree difference in ambient and inlet temp will give a 3-4% increase in the figure shown on the printout. and thats only one correction.

Just noticed you are running an rb25 exhaust housing. They are pretty small and may be restricting the flow, but on the up side improved response. I thought the internal gate gt30 hybrids were using vg exhausts?

The lag time won't be an issue as you have tuned the car at the current setting. With a similar setup i found about a 3rwkw loss dropping mixtures from 12.4 to 11.9 with no other changes. Out of interest, what sort of response does it have? Any dyno sheet?

I'd stick with a replacement stock fan if i were you. I have 2 12inch thermos sitting against the radiator and they struggle to keep the temps down on hot days and in traffic. I will probably be making a shroud for them eventually. I cant fit the stock fan in mine anymore. I wish i could as i never had a problem with overheating even on 40 degree days with the AC running flat out.

Why crank up the pressure? By doing that, when you tune the safc you will be taking out even more fuel and so the ecu is looking at a lower point in the maps and so it will be running more timing (than if you maintain stock pressure)and will be more likely to ping under load.

You mean like this? I used a bit of 3 inch pipe and welded a nut to suit the brass fitting for the iac valve inlet. You can't run it any shorter in this configuration due to the breather hoses. I couldn't get mine over the top of the engine as the wasn't anywhere near enough room between the top of the engine and the bonnet as nismoid has suggested. That was how i would have liked to do it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...500/ppuser/2863

At least it is still a government owned road. I tried a while back when a pretty big depresion open up in an M5 onramp. As the road is privately funded and maintained you have to approach the company, rather than the RTA (though i tried them first). I got nowhere.

I lost 3rwkw between 6500 and 7000 by dropping my af ratio from 12.5 to 11.9. I'm happy with that little bit of extra buffer.

Mine's finally running properly and has been tuned. It only took most of the year. R32 gtst with RB25DET PFC s6 rx7 550cc injectors Frontmount, pod, pump, yadda Hks cast manifold, Hks T300s turbo and 38mm hks ex wastegate (plumbed back) 3-3.5inch exhaust (depending which end you look at) Running optimax 238.8rwkw at 20psi

Can you hear the turbo spin up? And does it sound like it stops when the boost drops to nothing or is it still spining? Dyno is your friend, get it on and have a listen/look to see whats happening in a controlled environment. If you have a leak it'll be easy to find if it's big enough to bleed off all boost. If your turbo is suddenly seizing you will hear it.

What sort of ecu are you running? Does it still have closed loop mixture control? I suspect your tuner isn't correctly setting up your low load mixtures and that is why you are fouling plugs. You should be aiming for 14.7:1 for cruise and up to about 11.5-12 (depending on boost and timing run) under load. If he is seriously talking about running 14:1 under load then cut and run as fast as you can and get yourself another tuner before you pop an engine.

Which pollution hoses and bottle are you talking about? There are only the bov return and oil breather return on the intake. Are you talking about the charcoal canister and the lines running off the manifold and throttle body? If you dont mind your car smelling of petrol fumes it wont hurt the engine, just remember that one of the hoses runs back to the fuel tank breather. It's not hard to reroute the 2 hoses back under the inlet and across the front as they are only a 4 and 5mm vacuum hose.

Is it more of a ticking sound rather than a rattle? I've noticed that my last 2 sets of single pintle 550 injectors were pretty noisey and that was a ticking/clicking sound. The last set of buggered lifters i heard were more of a rattle that got significantly louder with revs. There's a big difference in the sound. What sort of car are we talking about here as an rb doesn't have tappets.

If you stick an aftermarket turbo on and retain all the factory heat shields and piping, no one will really notice unless really looking for it. Though the comp cover on a gt30 is pretty massive so it will stand out, 2530 or gtrs is a bit les obvious. A GCG highflow is a nice piece of gear. Mine made an easy 199rwkw with similar mods to you and was making 14psi by 3100rpm or so. I would recommend one if you really want to maintain the factory housings. I swapped to a full HKS kit and will never look back, but it doesn't look very stock anymore

Just trying to get my head around a few things regarding aftermarket jap cams for rb25's, For starters you can get step 1 hks 256/264 which are about 8.8 to 9.0mm lift, and poncam 256/256 about 8.8mm lift which are drop in with stock springs, retain vct and give a nice gain without requiring cam gears, though a retune helps. Whats to stop me dropping in tomei procams that are (say) 270/270 with bigger lift (10mm plus from memory), swapping the valve springs and getting an exhaust cam gear but retaining the vct. Or even running a low duration around 256/256 with the big lift. Is there an advantage in running short duration big lift? Or on the flip side is there an advantage running big duration low lift (like the old apexi drop in 280 cams)? Where is the happy medium and is there any advantage/disadvantage to retaining the vct with big lift cams or will it just put a valve through a piston when running long duration/high lift cams? Thanks guys

You serious? I have the same clutch and pedal effort is barely increased over stock. I wouldn't have thought the pedal box would be flexing much. I'll have to check one of these days.