BHDave

Not another bov vs no bov thread. Your car will be fine, It may stall after a big lift off if you have a really short intake pipe, it will be a little slower coming on boost between gear changes. For those reasons alone i would install a plumb back bov but it isn't essencial. I am yet to see one of these damaged turbos as a result of running no bov, i have never been told by a tuner/mechanic/workshop that i should install a bov because i'll kill my turbo, I've yet to kill a turbo by running no bov. Can someone please provide some evidence that no bov is pure death for turbos so that when ever someone asks this question we can post a link that shows a comp wheel with no blades and say "see"? Then whenever someone in a mirage drives past and has some massive wheels and even bigger flutter we can all smirk even more.

There is a mounting hole different between the rb20 and 25 pumps, the small one to the top right of the impeller when looking from the front is in a slightly different position. The N1 pump has an elongated hole so fits both. I also picked up my last genuine pump (for an rb20) for about $130.

Vacuum leak after the throttle body? Have you definately got all the hoses reconnected properly? as there should be bugger all difference to the idle.

For online sales and a list of distributors for the extreme stuff: http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/

I run the same as cc with a 1060 pressure plate. Thats behind a 225rwkw rb25 with rb20 flywheel and gearbox. Seems happy enough for now.

the search function is your friend. It has been done and there are some pretty detailed threads in the archives.

I only asked about the compression because it's a lot of boost for that sort of result, where as a lower comp engine would require a little bit more for the figure. The actuator is the bit bolted to the side of the turbo that looks like a cylinder with a rod sticking out of it that attaches to the wastegate flap. If the actuator spring is too soft (which i suspect it is) then the AVCR wont be able to hold boost no matter the duty you run. It's not the stock one is it?

Just a couple of questions: What actuator are you running? As the spring may be a bit weak What comp ratio are you running? As you have a built engine (so can specify the compression) and metal head gaskets come in a range of thicknesses (so can further alter the compression). One other thing worth noting as well, your dyno runs have the intake temp at 40 degrees and the room temp at 20 degrees. Please tell me you were running with the bonnet down as otherwise you are probably making less than 210 and the figures have been skewed.

Check the wiring between the ignitor and the ecu for shorts possibly. Check that the output signal at the ecu is correct (or swap ecus with someone who has the same engine). Check for error codes on the ecu. Wire up a consult plug and visit your friendly local Nissan workshop for a check.

You really need to get a multi channel to suit coil on plug ignition as your ecu is outputting the ignition triggers rather than a single coil with distributor type ignition. Autrtonic have a multi channel CDI that can be used with external coils as well as MSD and Motec and the HKS twin power units.

Just to add fuel to the fire... I am running an HKST300s on an rb25 which is basically the same turbo as what you have (T04s comp wheel, .7 a/r comp and .63 a/r exhaust). It makes 17psi by 3100rpm and it's only a plain bearing turbo. My previous GCG highflow would make 14psi on the rb25 by about the same revs (3100), i also ran the highflow on my old rb20 and it made 14psi by about 4300, so we're talking about a 1200rpm difference. This was on the same car with all the same supporting mods. So based on my own experience i can't see why your turbo wouldn't be making decent boost by 4200-4300 in all honesty. It will need more than 1 bar to make that sort of power though, probably closer to 1.3 or so. As for low mount, are you using the stock side mount manifold? it might fit. It would definately fit an r33 but i don't know how the engine bay width compares. They will fit low mount on an HKS cast manifold but it's a bit of work to massage the engine mount to clear the comp cover.

Whats the going rate for the ferodos? I've been told they are the best bang for buck performance pad. Who sells them?

I saw an exterior shot of that ages ago but this is the first time i've seen engine bay pics The thing thats bugging me about it there looks to be a fair bit of work to make the thing and with minimal extra effort (or fore thought) he could have had something that was actually good. I also can't beleive a scrutineer let him on a track.

Thanks cc, I've had others recommending the project mu gear, i've been quoted 380 by mu secret for the top end street pad (can't remember the name, but it's the replacement for the TItan HC). They are one step down from the 777 which are race oriented. I also asked about r34 GTT 2 piece rotors while i was on the phone with them. They told me 1100, i fell off my chair.

I like it, I never realised there were so many different type of steam engine....

I found they took a second or so to start doing thier job. The cheapy 50 dollar interim pads i've chucked in are instant

The pic is of the new front compared to the old r32 GTSt front

Well, i think i have found out what they are off. WHC34 stagea, 305mm, 31mm thickness. Now i have to find some. Why couldn't they just be r34 brakes?

I'm one of them. I tried running 6 bosch coils and leads after the astounding results of a mate with a CA and then an SR. He could run 1.4 plug gaps and a/f ratios deep into the 10's with no miss (and this was still utilising the stock ignitor). I could make about 5psi on my rb25 before blowing out the spark if i eased onto the throttle, if i planted the throttle it would just break down and miss instantly. It was wired exactly the same as on my friends SR, i even went and got 2 CA ignitors thinking the internals were bigger as the pins were bigger and ran 3 channels on each, no difference. Went back to rooted stock coils and it was 200% better, got splitfires and it didn't miss anymore.

Hi guys, The time has come to replace my pads and rotors. The rb74's i ran have chewed the rotors so much that the slots are just about gone. As a result i am a little reluctant to run rb74's again. And to make life interesting my car runs an odd ball disk and caliper combo. I have 305mm slotted disks and what looks like an r33 sumitomo caliper with a bigger offset and larger bolt (i think it was 18mm vs the stock 16/17mm bolt) where it attaches to the upright. What i'm looking to do is get a set of r34 GTT 310mm rotors and have them machined down to suit. So my questions are: Is this possible? What disks are people using? (the car is a street with plans to be an occasional track car) and what pads? I know, fairly general, but i'll be looking to do this in a month or so when i have some more money and wouldn't mind being able to research and get quotes up front. Cheers Dave EDIT: added a pic. Anyone actually know what they're off. I was sold them as r32 Vspec 1 brakes.

Hey cubes, what would you class as lag? the reason i ask is i think the gt30 with .63 rear will be absolutely tiny on your rb30. I run an old HKS T300s kit with .63 rear and T04s/.7 front, plain bearing (the wheels look identical to the current crop of GT30 turbos) on my 25 and have full boost (atm 17psi) by 3100 rpm and this is without the benefit of ball bearing centres. I'd have thought the next size up on the exhaust would be beneficial on the 3lt as you would free up the exhaust and be able to make some pretty good power without the need for stupid amounts of boost. Interesting reading about the different comp cover configuations, funnily enough there was little difference between the WOT performance of my old highflow vs the t300s at the same boost level, they even acheived full boost at the same time (which was 14psi until i had the car on the dyno with the new setup) the t300s was within 5rwkw of the highflow at that point. Transient response at light throttle was completely different, the highflow shat all over the HKS (probably to do with the ball bearing core)

Check what the boost cut is set at as a start and whether or not there is a duty reduction that is tripped when you hit the boost cut. It is probably worthwile to increase the boost cut well above the 10psi you want to run as a trial.

The temp gauge signal is just a single wire plug in the inlet manifold casting just above the thermostat at the front. You need to wire that directly to your gauge. It would have been in the original under dash plugs on the r31 dash loom and in the r32 engine loom

With a .63 rear and cams i reckon you'd see decent boost around 4, maybe a touch earlier with a gt30. Should make 220rwkw or a bit more. Bigger exhaust housing will mean more lag and more power.

Mate, that doesn't sound too healthy. I think your first point of call will be checking the electricals, in particular where you have spliced into the VL body loom for power and ignition for the new engine loom. Something is pulling a hell of a lot of power and/or shorting on the same circuit that the alarm and stereo are connected to i'd say.