BHDave

If you've already got the manifold and gate just get a new rear housing for the turbo with no flap or braze up the existing internal wastegate flap. What type of turbo btw? If it's a garrett you could get a housing off the shelf probably.

Price Dropped on turbo

Gday abcent, It's one of GCG's early stage 2 highflows rated at 480hp as opposed to the stage 1 which is 450. Basically its a fully rebuilt stock rb25 turbo with larger steel wheels, new cartridge and machined housings. I don't know the exact specs of the wheels or final a/r ratios I only ever saw 199rwkw with this turbo on 12psi and about 10.5:1 A/F ratios. I later tidied up the a/f ratios bringing them back to about 12:1 and ran 14psi which felt alot quicker but never had it back on the dyno with this setup so can't say what sort of power it was making when the turbo came off. Cheers Dave

Sorry Nismo,i dont know if the lines will fit a 3540. The oil and water fittings at the turbo are different sizes (the close up shot shows an oil and water fitting at the turbo as well as the barbed fitting that connects at the back of the head). Cheers, Dave

Hi guys, I have recently upgraded my turbo and have my old setup for sale - GCG highflow stage 2, approx 30k old, excellent condition, $1200 ono *SOLD* - Trust style high mount manifold with some fairly big cracks starting to appear, modified with T3 flange, also has provision for external gate, repairable $150 ono *SOLD* - Pirtek braided oils and water lines to suit $100 ono *SOLD* - HKS adjustable wastegate actuator (original braket and new bracket to suit highmount) $140 ono *SOLD* This was fitted to an R32 GTSt with rb25det I'm located in sydney, would prefer sydney buyer so that all items can be inspected prior to sale. Prefer cash or direct deposit Attached is a (bad) shot of the installed setup where you cant really see too much. I will post up some pictures of the individual items tomorrow when the lights better (as my camera is a bit ordinary in low light) Cheers, Dave EDIT: Added more pics EDIT: Prices dropped EDIT: All sold

the second loom is used for connecting other blitz products together so isn't needed. I'd have to check the back of mine to be sure which way the switch needs to go as i know it's currently set to suit the internal wastegate, but will be swapped to suit the external shortly. The file is only operating instructions, not installation instructions so wont help at this stage but you will probably need it later on to figure out how to set stuff. If you need it pm me and i'll email it over unzipped.

It's just a matter of getting a new bit of vacuum hose from repco/autobarn/supercheap or where ever else sells the stuff. The hoses tend to get a bit brittle over time and once disturbed they will split at the end. Mine did a similar thing a couple of years back with the stock 3mm hose that runs between the plenum and the map sensor.

Plumbing is easy, it just needs a boost signal which you can pick up of the manifold somewhere. The wiring is fairly easy too. blue and white (from memory) run between the head unit and the solenoids,the colours should match at each end. Black is earth and red is a switched power. Attachment updated for anyone who was having trouble with it blitz_dsbc.zip

Put the 2 grounds together, it is how you have to do it on SR equiped cars.

I hate roofless, i'm too bloody tall and my head gets smacked around by the wind and i cant hear anything for 3 days afterwards.

Pain in the arse job but not particularly difficult if you have a 1/4 inch drive socket set and a few spanners, just take your time and dont force anything. And dont drop the plastic spacers or rubber o rings

Any chance the alarm/immobilizer cutout is still open open circuit? Are the relays at the ecu clicking on when the ignition is switched on and the ecu getting power? Because the injectors are fired directly by the ecu (negative trigger) with a switched power to the other side. Is it turning over (as in the starter works) or not at all?

I agree with gtst. I have seen these coolers and they look to be pretty good. No better or worse than a genuine hybrid kit and half the price.

I'll go you one better scathing, i want an Exige, pure and simple. I can afford it.......maybe

The hoses start to perish around the end and the fluid seeps out through the end of the hose. I have replaced the reservoir to pump hose as well as the 2 return hoses as they have all gone the same way

This will be a bit vauge as i'm not all that familiar with the red top engines. If the current engine is running coil on plug ignition (which i think they do) then there's a fair chance that the tacho signal is coming from the ecu which is the same as in the r32 ecu so it should simply be a matter of splicing the r32 output into the r31 dash loom. Otherwise you will have to find where the signal is picked up on the existing loom and add that into the r32 loom. The abs may be affected. The r32 has abs outputs but they may not be compatible with the r31 outputs. I'm assuming the r31 runs a separate abs computer with inputs from the ecu. You would need to find the wiring diagrams for both the 32 abs and 31 abs to see if all the signals are there as a minimum (whether they are compatible will be a different story). The body loom should be pretty much identical, you may need to swap a few plugs around and add in a plug for the factory oil pressure sender (if you want to use it) but thats about it. If you want to keep your existing power steering and AC compressor it makes it a bit easier too.

I did the run to pirtek. The hose isn't cheap (about 30 bucks a meter) but you can get away with a straight 400mm or so length. Just make sure you get some hose that has a bit of flex in it, they have some thicker walled stuff that is too rigid for use with the reservoir in the stock location as you cant bend it tight enough.

That ecu wont fit an r33, the brackets are wrong. The brackets are for an r32. But the internals dont match what i found inside my r32 ecu either and the part number is slightly different. could it be an rb25de ecu? got picks of the loom? Thats pretty easy to confirm r32 or 33 from the under dash plugs.

The diffs are the same (bar the ratio as mentioned by cubes) so an r32 diff isn't really an upgrade. They are both r200 VLSDs, there may be some differences in the half shafts and hosing depending on the year your s13 was made/engine type originally fitted/abs/non abs/hicas/non hicas/input flange pcd. Thats assuming you already have a factory LSD. If not, then the dirty r180 open wheeler comes into play....

The easiest way to get around the whole low/high speed issue with a big bosch pump is to run dedicated 20amp wire from the battery to the new pump and use the existing wire as a trigger for a new relay. Then run a new earth wire to the chassis (or back to the battery if you are paranoid about voltage drop). That way, whether the ecu is outputting high or low speed, the relay is still closed so the pump is getting a constant high voltage (which the bosch pumps need anyway)

Add boost. R32's don't have the rich/retard thing like r33's so it's worth doing. Put in 12-13 psi, check it for ping, if no ping advance the static timing to 16 or 17, check it again. It makes for a fun car. Don't run more boost than this for a couple of reasons, 1) the turbo is out of puff and really only heats the air, 2) hot air means ping. The stock boost gauge is a slow piece of crap btw, it takes a long time to start registering changes. Get an aftermarket, they're cheap enough and good insurance.

Skyline model = r32 gtst Wheel diameter = 17 Wheel width =front 8, rear 9 Wheel offset =front +30, rear +35 Tyre size = front 215 45/17, rear 235 40/17 Modifications to fit = none. Very minor front scrub on the outer edge when cornering and hitting a bump. Rears would require lipping with wider tyres

I've replaced my clutch fan with twin 12inch thermos. They struggle a bit in traffic to be honest but that could have something to do with a highmount and bugger all heat sheilds too. Once i'm driving my temperature stays between 75 and 80 degrees consistantly.

Out of interest, when you replaced the spring, was the new one alot higher rated than the one you removed? Because thats what throws me. Is the outlet a vband as well or a 2 bolt flange? No hope of blocking that off?

Mine turns on without aircon too. 3 thermos running at once makes quite a lot of noise