BHDave

The fluctuating a/f ratio on the gauge is just a standard nissan thing, dont worry about it. It doesn't show up on a wide band o2 sensor funnily enough.

You could always bolt a steel plate on instead of the wastegate and see if it has an effect (though you'd want to be pretty careful)

Intake restriction? It's a long shot. Try reading the pressure at the compressor outlet and at the inlet manifold and see if there is a significant drop. Should be easy enough to plug the ebc in at one side and the boost gauge in at the other and have a look.

td05 18g's seem to be good for around 220-230rwkw on sr20's. I think you'd really be pushing it on a 25 as it would choke up at the top end.

3040 is a bit big for just over 200awkw It can flow enough air forcloser to 300. Have a look at a 2530 or discopotato which are better suited to your power goal.

What sort of boost controller? Drop the boost back to 12psi and see if the car runs as it used to. If not then try removing the controller temporarily and see if it runs properly. Just a couple of ideas before you spend the cash on a dyno run.

I'm with godzilla, it is the most obvious thing that would explain your problem. On the bright side, atleast you know your hose clamps are tight enough.

I've helped remove the box on a couple of cars and in all honesty it made bugger all difference. We removed it on a mates sil80 because it had a very spongy pedal feel (which turned out later to be the clutch) and it made no difference at all. So if your clutch is leaking from the box i'd just remove it and hook the metal line from the master directly to the rubber line that runs to the slave. The threads the same so you shouldn't have too many issues other than having to bend the metal line slightly.

thanks, mate. no worries

Series 5 turbo injectors with part number 195500 2020 (i think) are high impedence and can be run in an rb20 as well as later model series 4 turbo injectors with the pink/red plug and offset guide with p/n 195500 1320 or 1370 (it's been a while since i had any to check). The earlier series 4 turbo injectors share the same part number as the late model ones (the 1300 suffix) but have a brown plug and centre guide and are low imp so could be used in a GTR if they are still ok. Remembering that they are now close to 20 years old.

you read my post right? i dont see anything written in yours regarding ca de injectors, only the det injectors in which you agree with what i've already said.

It's probably because the engine isn't turning the pump as fast at idle and so the steering becomes a bit heavier. There should be a fast idle switch that kicks up the revs by about 2-300rpm when you turn the wheel at idle.

rb20 injectors have a lag time of .88ms, rb26 have .73 so you'd be putting in -.14 or -.16 if you can put negatives in (never tried)

yep

Some of them are, some of them aren't. An early model rb25 (series 1) and an rb20 are definately interchangeable (i have swapped between the 2 with no problem), later rb25's aren't due to the different cam. There are additional dramas with the part numbers as some that may look identical wont work on a different engine. Something to do with the pick up in the cas

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the CA DE injectors are high imp, the DET injectors are low imp.

Thats the driveshaft but it wont effect the alignment of the rear end. You've got me stumped

vg20e. I pity all the gloria owners who got stuck with this lump almost as mush as the r32 owners that got stuck with the CA18i

Mine started playing up and it would just turn the rear wheels at random times. It's a bit funny having to correct the steering when you are driving at 110 in a straight line on the freeway. I found that the subframe will still move around a fair bit with the stock bushes when you load up the suspension. Even with the hicas locked i found that my car would passive rear steer on hard cornering. I just put in some solid alloy cradles and it worked a treat. Also get the rear wheel alignment checked out as the alignment may have been knocked about. A bit of toe out on the rear wheels makes for a very twitchy rear end, particularly on rough surfaces and when accelerating.

If you have an earlier model r32 then you may need to change the water lines as the banjos on the turbo are a different size. Later model rb20's use the same fittings so you may be lucky.

It runs to a rubber hose that comes off the back of the inlet manifold casting right down the bottom.

You forgot about question 3) have you used the search function? There have been clutch threads started once a week since forever relating to all types of cars. In my opinion for an rb20 id be looking at a decent single plate setup, probably a 9puck with an ugraded pressure plate and retain the stock flywheel. I am running a 9 puck with 1060kg pressure plate behind an rb25det and it is easy to drive and bites when it has to.

I'm with blind elk about the dumb comments, it can be a pretty cheap conversion if you are handy with a soldering iron and a socket set and well worth the effort. I've carried out the exact swap you are contemplating (except i had a manual to start with) and retained the rb20 flywheel/clutch combo as it was already upgraded and the rb20 box to minimise cost and hassles with tail shafts. It's happy enough putting 200rwkw through it. All up i paid under 3k which included a new exhaust manifold, braided lines and custom piping, engine, loom and ecu from an s1 r33gtst. All work carried out myself with a little help manhandling the engine and box in and out and some welding.

Having seen the rest of the wiring in your car i would also suspect neither. Easy enough to check. Your ecu should spit out an error code when you go into diagnostic mode

The pump has the additional outlet for the hicas as you figured. I dont know that blocking it off is a good solution for the pump but you could probably grab an r33 pump or maybe see if your old sr/ca pump can be made to fit. The red circle is air regulator valve which should have a line running in (yellow circle) and a line running into the bottom of the plenum. It is open when the car is cold and closes as it heats up. It gets an air feed from the cross over pipe before the throttle body which is tee'd to go to the idle air valve and the air regulator valve. Looms are fun. The 2 4 pin plugs are for the eccs and ignition relays, the remaining wires are a combo of climate control wiring, fuel pump speed control, o2 sensor power, wipers, tach out, temp gauge, cranking signal, eccs/ignition trigger and some other stuff i cant remember. Time to get out some pinout diagrams and start tracing wires. It isn't a plug in job, and it isn't a quick job. It's the hardest part of an engine swap imho. good luck