BHDave

I have run dedicated 30 amp wiring with a 20 amp fuse for my external pump (044). A relay is triggered off the factory power feed to the intank pump. The intank pump (walbro) is still running off the factory wiring through the stock 10amp fuse with no problems. I also run a surge tank with the return line feeding back into the top so the 044 is effectively feeding itself once primed if the walbro cant keep up. Only problem i have is the PFC doesn't prime the pump long enough for the 044 to build up rail pressure so i have to turn the car to reds, then off, then back on before cranking.

Did anyone check the fuel pressure when this happened? It's pretty easy to spot when the pressure stops rising with boost. If the pressure increases and then hits a wall then it's the pump. My malpassi allows fuel pressure to fluctuate by about 1 psi eachway. As nismod has stated it is worthwhile running a dedicated power feed to the pump with a relay triggered off the current pump power feed. It also eliminates the fuel pump speed control. The 910 may be a bit undersized for your application, an 040 intank pump is pushing it at 260rwkw and the 910 is a bit smaller (i think).

If you are talking about the cap with the 2 screws you may need to remove the small plastic/rubber bit in the top of the cap to clear the top of the injector. I dont have these in mine and haven't had a problem. If you are talking about the machined alloy ring that sards need to seal than you may have an issue.

I never had a problem with mine. I had a misfire on the old engine and swapped the loom at one stage and it made no difference. I am running it on the current engine and dont have a problem with it either. Best bet is to check the resistance of the wiring and check visually for any signs of damage. If anything you will find the plugs will be damaged rather than the wiring, even if the conduit is all cracked and flakey

You will need to pick up an alignment tool with splines on it to line up the plates. My mate has 2, one is an old main shaft and one is a proper tool that he reckons he got from snap on. Or you can do what i did the first time and try and align the splines by eye after using a non splined alignment tool. Only took 3 goes to get it right

You'd probably want to limit yourself to around 250-60 for any longevity in which case the t67 is probably a touch big. May be worth having a read of the 260kw rb20 thread to see how those boys are doing it

If the new ecu has a switched output that can be configured to switch on and off at certain revs you could run it. I know 5 year old microtech have one that could switch on only based on the selected input but a higher level ecu should have multiple auxiliary outputs that can be configued to suit.

It'd be fine if u like lag. Id say 4500 plus before any reasonable amount of boost is developed, unless you want to run a shot of NOS to bring it on quicker Though if all supporting mods means rb24 bottom end it'll be a bit different....

You should be able to read a number on the belts themselves. The number is just a generic thing that describes the number of ridges and length of the belt.

I've had an ignitor drop a channel. Ran quite happily on 5. Another easy way is to remove the plugs from the coils one at a time and see which one doesn't effect the running of the car. The swap the coils between that cylinder and another one to confirm it's the ignitor and not the coil.

If your getting a needle roller bearing to replace the bush make sure it comes with a seal. I have had one fitted with out a seal and a year later i was pulling the box back off to remove a bunch of bearing bits from the clutch.

The 33 radiator is about an inch or so taller than the 32 radiator from memory. It's been a while since i saw them side by side

I thought only the32 GTR had a clutch type, gtst still has a viscous On a side note, i've also done the swap and it is great. Same turbo and i now have full boost at 2800 rather than 4200 Also have an extra 25 kw at the same boost with a shitty home tune on the emanage, though i now have a pfc in it and it feels alot stronger with even more midrange punch. Retained the rb20 box, retained the rb20 diff (but that was already dying). It's next on the list of replacements.

I think he means a premodded harness to suit the dash and body plugs rather than a loom to plug into the CA ecu. It's not a particularly hard job, you just have to match up the ecu outputs to the dash plugs and the power plugs, patience is a virtue and if you can figure out how to read a pin out diagram you can do the wiring. A good auto electrician should also be able to do the work for you if you provide both looms and pin out/wiring diagrams good luck

That would be 25, S6 injectors, not S4 or 5

S6 rx7 injectors can be made to fit with some minor mods to the bottom screen to allow them to fit into the rail. They are a slightly longer injector but still seal ok. Unfortunately they are only single pintle. Mine has them in atm, though due to a niggling missfire issue i have no idea what duty they will be running at what max power. edit: Forgot to mention that the s6 rx7 injectors use a denso plug (rather than a nissan plug) which can be picked up from any old fuel injector specialist. The plug needs to be notched to fit due to the large lip on the r33 rail.

You could well be hitting the rev limiter you know.....But i doubt it. Just an idea. RB20's dont seem to suffer the same coil issues as rb25's for some odd reason, considering they share the same part number in alot of cases. Youd find you have the occassional misfire under load at lower boost if the coils are on the way out, and then complete breakdown at higher boost.

Late model 25 with the bigger exhaust housing

If the current highflow with vg30 exhaust wheel is anything like the old stage 2 highflow expect full boost around 4100rpm with stock manifold, pod, front mount and full exhaust. I found mine would start building boost from about 3000 make about 5psi by 3700 and then just shoot up to 14psi by 4100.

Your car wouldn't run if it was running injector duty of 80% at idle, it would stall instantly. It should be running around 1-3% duty at idle. Yes an afc will allow you to adjust the duty the injectors are running, how else are you going to adjust the amount of fuel going into the engine down? Your duty should increase as revs increase and as load increases. For example 7000rpm on 12psi at WOT may be reading 80% where as at half throttle only 60% (only an example) and at 3500 rpm at half throttle maybe 30%. The duty of the injector basically tells you how much fuel is getting put into the engine (assuming fuel pressure and injector size is constant). The fact that your AVCR is stating duty of higher than 80% at idle tells me that your avcr is reading incorrectly.

Id check the engine number and VIN aginast the rego papers as a start. Then check with REVS https://online.revs.nsw.gov.au/revs/public.htm or the victorian equivalent for any vehicle history, outstanding finance, etc. But if in doubt, walk away. It isn't worth the risk.

You'll need the pinout diagrams for both the current engine and the new engine as a minimum. wiring diagram for the sr will help but isn't essencial as you can trace everything you need with the pinouts. An SR engine crossmember, engine, gearbox and loom/ecu would probably help. RB g/box crossmember can be modded to suit, same with an sr crossmember. Tailshaft may need modification, though i dont know for sure. SR shaft has the right splines and diff flange though. couple of adapters for the heater hoses and some custom pipework for inlet/intercooler piping and a modded front pipe. Thats about it, it's a pretty easy swap.

Yep, lengthen it, set it for the lowest boost you want to run with the avcr off. Then reset your avcr for 1.2 bar as it will need to run a higher duty to make the same boost

genuine rb25 ex manifold gasket goes for stupid money, around 130 last time i got one

Could be a sticky relay. Try tapping on the top of the relays in the engine fuse box see if it drops out