BHDave

Time to make a custom double brace....

You really want s13/a31/r32 castor rods. They are all interchangeable. Mine came out of an s13.

Sounds pretty normal. The bushes are just transfering all the mechanical diff noise into the chassis now rather than damping it as they were previously.

Everything work as it should?

sounds fun. good luck with it. Atleast you dont have to rewire the under dash plugs and main plug next to the air box

There's a charcoal canister purge? News to me. Seeing as my rb25 is in an r32 it is plumbed to suit the 32 with one connection from the plenum to the charcoal canister and another from the throttle body to the little reg looking thing on the top of the canister. The other line i assume is the tank vent. I know the valve you are talking about under the plenum. I removed it on my rb20 and the only problem i had was the odd stall when cold. Other than that the car still drove fine. Once it was up to temp there were no problems. It may be that the r34 ecu controls it through the aac or iac valve rather than the other one. With the CAS, you are running the r34 cas and r33 loom and ecu right? If so then yes you have wired it correctly and the signal wire will be shielded. Is it possible to swap the r33 iac and aac valves to the r34 plenum? could save alot of hassles.

I'd be inclined to swap the CAS wiring at the ecu to maintain the sheilding as the CAS signal is one of the more important inputs to the ecu. Will the r33 vvt solenoid physically fit the r34 engine? just an idea. I have no idea what the canister purge solenoid is. If it's one of the 2 that sit on the back of the r33 plenum witha purple and brown plug (i think) then they are the solenoids that control idle air and idle step up with ac and power steering input. keep them both if possible. If it's the one that sits underneath the plenum, it isn't needed if you don't mind the car stalling occasionally when it's cold, that would be the last one you are refering to in point 5. It is only a switched power and an earth anyway as the valve opens/closes based on the water temp.

Are you still running the factory 1.1 gap on the plugs? Try dropping it to .8 or .9mm for a start. Also what mods do you have, as a stock car shouldn't have any issue with ignition with new plugs even with a stock plug gap.

RB25 trubo comp cover doesn't have a nipple to hook the boost signal up to like the rb20 turbo. Either way the boost drop between the plenum and turbo wont be so excessive to cause the problem, if anything it'll be making the turbo work a touch harder.

Depends on how the power feeds are set up in the rb20e r32. In an sr20de to det conversion the relays are all in the engine bay fuse box and there is no relay to power the coils. Same model car but different body looms, even though the det loom will plug straight in. As the relays for eccs and ignition in the rb looms are located next to the ecu i'd rule that out, but there may still be a fuse/fusable link needed in the fuse box. Easiest check would be making sure that the coils have 12V. If not, then you can add a switched power feed direct to the coils or try wiring power to the ignition relay. Knock sensors should work fine if they are ok as they are wired as part of the engine loom, which you have complete. The big plug behind the air box are your main switched power feeds, as well as ac on, power steering idle up, and a bunch of others i cant remember right now. There's a fair chance the ecu is running solely off the back up constant power and not the eccs and could also explain the coil fault code

Did the rb20e have coil on plug ignition or distributor? There may not be power to the coils. It happens with sr20de to sr20det conversions too. I haven't seen an rb25de pinout but there may be differences in the pin outs to the det ecu

Try it without the bleed valve for a start. Also put your rb20 actuator on the r33 turbo for an extra couple of psi. Your mods will also have an effect but i wouldn't expect the boost to be held that low by stock intercooler/exhaust.

They now make a CDI unit to suit multi coil setups. I haven't seen or heard anything about a drop in coil on plug setup.

The s1 CAS is different from the NEO cas though i think the s2 is the same. Problem is that the keyway is different meaning you cant fit a series 1 cas to the neo engine without modding the cam/cas. EDIT, just looked at the picks. You have a series 2 engine there so you may be able to fit the CAS. Based on what you have said above i take it your keeping the r33 loom and ecu? Biggest problem i can see is you will lose the constantly variable inlet cam timing of the neo and have it replaced by the on/off r33 vct if it works at all. And that would be a damn shame.

I paid about 130 from Just jap about 6 months ago for a s/h one.

It's possible. Have you tried jacking the car up off the diff and see if the subframe pushes up against the body? That would be shagged bushes Or tightening the nuts (if it's possible)?

By putting the 20 crank in an rb30 wouldn't you just end up with near enough to a 2 litre engine anyway?

Aftermarket steering arms have the stopper slightly further out with a milled down section that will slide inside the rack housing. There are also aftermarket tie rod ends that sit the ball joint lower at the hub though i'm not 100% sure how these ones work (but it has something to do with a change in geometry).

That looks rather odd. If it only happened when the car was jacked up i'd say it's probably shagged bushes but as it maintains a gap when it's down i think you could have a twisted car/subframe. Is it only the one corner that has the gap?

Nice to hear. It always seems to be the odd ball controllers in these situations....... Cheers Dave

I'd be leaning towards a second hand hks2510 or 30 for that sort of power or a second hand gcg highflow r33 turbo and sell your stock one. Either could be had for about 1500 or less. You could also pick up a new genuine garrett turbo with your budget. i have been running a s/h gcg highflow that i bought for 1500 for a year and a half now, total of about 60k since i've owned it and it is still in beautiful condition, no shaft play or thrust movement. The highflow r33 turbo will also be a bolt on option as opposed to the VL turbo which will require a modified dump pipe.

Shouldn't be too hard. the dash plugs may be a bit different and the wiper wiring would need to be removed from the loom and kept with the car it came out of. Other than that there should be no real probs.

If you have air in the line the clutch will try to stay engaged rather than disengage. I ran into a problem a couple of months back when i changed my master and slave cylinders. The master wasn't retracting far enough and maintaining pressure in the system. As a result as the temperature of the fluid got hotter (say from sitting at traffic lights for a couple of minutes) it would partially disengage the clutch which resulted in slip when accelerating away. Easy one to check too. Jack the car up, grab the piston on the slave cylinder and see if you can push it back. If you cant then thats your problem, if you can then you get to keep looking.

16yo car with genuine 66k on the clock, not likely. I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole, even for the price (which would be pretty good if not for the oil pressure concerns). On the other hand, if you can hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and do a proper test and it come's up good. Go for it. The cost of the the other replacement parts wont total more than 1k in parts and labour and you've still got a bargain. Mine had a bit of rust in the boot. It hasn't got any worse in 2.5 years. It will be related to your leaking rear tail light most likely. Fix that and hit the rust with some converter and it'll be fine.

Looks like trust have put a bit of effort into it, though i reckon they would have been better off starting to manufacture stand alone units and just give the old emanage a face lift.