BHDave

Could have something to do with the lack of a cat converter.

Yeah, some minor wiring as it's a universal rather than direct plug in and you'd need to change a couple of base settings on the unit which is a piece of cake as i have all the english manuals for it to show whats needed.

If that's your rear brakes, i want to see the fronts.....

Gday Stuart, It come out of my r32gtst. It was running an rb25det with z32afm and 550 injectors and previously an rb20det with 550's. I have upgraded to a power FC Cheers Dave

If the fuel pump relay is the only problem, i'd be inclined to wire the trigger directly off the ignition switch rather than try and rewire the ecu power feeds. The r33 has a power plug in the front passenger corner that should give you a swtched ignition source, splice a wire in and run it across to the fuse box to trigger your relay and youre done.

Ive seen the stock bovs start to vent at higher pressures when they are disconnected but not blocked. This would cause a rich, rather than lean stuation. as predator said, if your return pipe is open then that would cause problems as it will suck air in after the afm.

bump

Yeah, i'm running s6 rx7 injectors which are rated at 530cc/min according to the apexi literature. No dramas yet but i only installed the fc last night. The other important info you need is the injector lag time of both your original injectors and the new ones so you can program in the difference in the injector correction table. Info on common injectors attached, it atleast tells you what the original injectors are.

Selling emanage main unit, injector and ignition harness', english support tool and cable. $450 ono **SOLD** Cheers Dave

I think you need to be registered on Nengun for it to work. Worked for me.

The r32 gtst uses a cable drive to the speedo and the sensor is mounted on the back of the cluster. The output runs to the ecu under the dash.

You are going to have to trace them back to the ecu/engine loom, i never found a diagram for the under dash plugs. Pick up a cheap multimeter with continuity tester to make it easier. It looks to be a late model r32 gts-t loom (same as my old one) and the plugs have a combination of tach out, fuel pump trigger, water temp gauge, speed sensor input, all the consult outputs and a heap of other stuff i cant remember. The other 2 plugs are mainly for the wipers from memory with a few other bits and pieces thrown in. Somewhere in the 4 plugs there is the wiring for the dropping resistor for the fuel pump speed control, the output wire for the fuel pump speed, 2 wires for some water temp sensor for the climate control and a couple that run to the main power plug in the engine bay.

I wish they had that when i found mine snapped in half on the side of the road where my car used to be.

My last car was a series 4 rx7, cost me more in maintenence than in mods

Old mazda 808 with a 13BT and old school T04, microtech, shortened 9inch, supra 5 speed and custom tailshaft with 8 inch slicks jammed under the rear end with some suspension work. Total cost would be about 17k including car

You need to adjust your gain settings down. The gain will be set too high causing the boost to spike when it comes on. You can also adjust your boost cut level, thats assuming it's the same model as mine.

It depends on a few things. For a start is it an rb20/25/26. I'm assuming 25. The diff will probably be alright though it may wear out the LSD a bit quicker. The clutch will happily hold 200rwkw in an rb20/25 if you baby it, but will slip like buggery if you go for a big launch or the turbo comes on hard so i'd say you'll need to replace it.

You may have to modify the bar with either core due to their thickness. Provided the inlet/outlet is at the base of the cooler there shouldn't be a problem fitting either of them, you will probably need to chop off the driving light brackets though as they will be in the way of the piping.

Is your car always that clean?

Pull the plug on the cas and crank it for a bit to build a bit of oil pressure before starting as all the oil will have drained back to the sump. Mine takes a bit longer to get pressure than i'd like and it only sits for 5-6 days at most.

Check the cat. If the car has been lowered and the exhaust hits things then there's a chance the honeycomb is smashed and causing a restriction in the exhaust. It could also be past it's used by date too and clogged up. edit: I haven't seen an sr lose power with a SS manifold installed ever and i've seen a few installed.

Does it still have the oil pressure light working? If not then the factory sender may be unpluged, removed or dead. It'd be the first thing to check. If the engine has a lot of top end noise while running then it is possible the oil pump is dead but i wouldn't jump to any conclusions until you check the sender.

You have PM

ah, everything becomes clear. Thanks

And is this the model that doesn't require the afm?