BHDave

Unless it's been swapped or rebuilt it will be a steel front wheel and ceramic exhaust.

That's the trottle switch, not the throttle position sensor. It's either on or off and i'm pretty certain it's only used by the auto ecu. The manual r33 actually has it blanked off. It's seems to cause a bit of confusion. The TPS has a variable voltage from almost 0 when the throttle is closed to about 4V at WOT where as the throttle switch drops to 0 as soon as the throttle is opened slightly.

I only paid 130 for genuine nissan master and slave cylinders. I was pleasantly surprised.

Trust me, i have been logging these thing for the past few months in the hunt to get my emanage running properly (stupid emanage, i'm getting a pfc). TPS maxes at about 3.8V, afm is seeing the high side of 4V as i'm not maxing the Z32. Previously, on my rb20 afm it would be seeing 4.9V plus from about 4500rpm.

I never found a boost cut on my rb20 and was making about 175rwkw by the end, it's worth removing the FCD just as a trial. If you hit a mystery cut at some point then reinstall it. The line to the charcoal canister is a vent for the fuel tank to let excess pressure/vapour out. If you remove the canister then let it vent to atmosphere but it will smell a bit.

First step is to check that all the internal dial settings are correct, the 5 screw adjustments are set to 0 and it is wired up correctly. If there is a problem with wiring or the dials it should be flashing error codes at you. Plugging the unit in with everything set correctly and 0 correction will have no effect on the running of the car. I have wired up 3 engines, rb20, rb25 and ca18 with no problems on start up.

TPS at WOT reads around 3.6-3.8V, AFM is maxed at about 5V typically.

It's a common problem as the plenum sits a little higher on the rb25. You can give whiteline a go as they can manufacture custom strut braces on request. Mine fit luckily, but it isn't a name brand and came on the car so i can't really help out there. It's only got a few mil clearance though.

I agree. If it's a rising rate reg then you will find there is more fuel being put into the engine than the ecu realises and as a result you will have very rich mixtures and associated misfires when the ecu switches to open loop. If you remove the reg and run the turbo at 10psi then you will be reaching the limits of the stock injectors and AFM too as some of the other guys have mentioned, but in all honesty you can get about 180rwkw fairly safely with the stock ecu/injector/afm combo. If in doubt, put it on a dyno and see what the top end mixtures are like.

I'd be inclined to remove the FCD, the r32 doesn't need one and the remapped ecu would have removed the cut anyway (hopefully). Also at 150rwkw you will not be hitting a cut anyway. Next would be to remove the adjustable reg. Is the new reg inline with the stock reg or have you removed the stocker? Fairly stupid question but is it a 1:1 reg or rising rate? With the A/M reg removed and a stock reg in place plug in a stocker ecu and it should run properly. Check the AFM is in fact a stock rb20 unit and check that it is giving an output proportional to the load on the engine. But after all that, i reckon your FCD is clamping the AFM signal at around 4.5V and it isn't putting enough top end fuel in Once you are flowing enough air to make 150rwkw it should be reading close to 4.9V. Thats why it'd be the first thing i turf.

Yeah, it'll fit. You basically end up with a S1 r33 turbo so it'd be cheaper to just buy an rb25 turbo.

Last month on the M5 travelling home heading north. Freeway closed at the Casula exit for M7 bridge works so i get to drive through Casula to get around it. Half road closure before the King Georges road turn of so traffic backs up a k and a half. Freeway closed at King Georges road for M5 East maintainence works so i get to dirve through back streets to get home. 30minute trip took closer to an hour.

Stock engine could be bolted in in under a day and wiring loom mods seem to go for around 450-600 bucks so i'd say it could be done for less than $1200 bucks all up with an rb20 box. A bit more with an rb25box due to tail shaft mods.

bingo. That is the way it is. You could probably throw the defect in the bin with no harm done to be honest. There's a bit more to defecting an out of state car than a local one.

Fuel pump would be pretty important, particularly with the bigger injectors. With the turbos you have listed i'd say you'll be aiming for a bit under 200rwkw which the stock injectors could stretch to with a rising rate reg. You could then use the safc to tune the on boost area only and not have to worry about the bottom end. R32's generally maintain decent A/F ratios with the stock ecu at higher boost, they are nowhere near as bad as 33's. 2.5 inch piping would be fine, the stock piping is only slightly smaller than 2.5 anyway. I'd be leaning toward the rb25 turbo but as it has ceramic exhaust wheels it may not last too long in a drifter.

It's for sale on English Ebay

Any turbo specialist worth the name will have a gasket kit to suit the stock turbo. Studs can also be picked up from Auto One. 12 studs and new nuts cost me under 50 bucks.

JMS did something similar a few years ago and got about 180rwkw i think which isn't a hell of a lot really, especially considering an RB25 turbo is capable of that with less lag and less boost. As S3_Girl has said a T04 front wheel fill give you bit more to work with but i think the RB20 front housing may be a bit small to fit a big wheel in.

You'd want the late model series 4 injectors for straight plug in. They are a high impedence 550 cc injector, pink top with part number 195500 1370 i think, some minor shaving of the plug guides is needed to fit straight into the rb20 loom. Or Series 5 high impedence with part number 195500 2200 which are also pink but have a slightly different plug requiring a bit of modification of the injector loom to install the new plugs. Walbro pumps can be picked up from a heap of places. I got mine off ebay. You can also get them at http://www.importbitz.com/enginenew.htm . They will quite happily flow enough fuel for over 250 atw. If autobarn has a pfc with hand controller for 1500 to suit r32gtst in stock then get it now, seriously. You won't see that every day. You could probably get it cheaper online but as i said earlier, you will have to wait. Make sure it isn't for an r32 gtr or r33gtst as they aren't compatible.

For a drop in fuel pump get a walbro. The kit suits r32gtst/s13 as it uses the same bracket in the tank. The r32GTR pump needs the bracket to be modded a bit to fit but isn't too hard. I went the walbro solely because it was new and i have quite a few mates with them and no problems to date. You can pick them up for about 200 bucks. For GTR injectors 300 is about the going rate, it's also the going rate for rx7 550 cc injectors which are high impedence and will definately flow more than enough. I tend to lean towards the 440 GTR injectors as you can pick up 6 of them easier than 6 rx injectors, dropping resistor is a bit harder to find. PFC is also a bit harder to come by for an R32gtst, you may have a long wait for one even though they are advertised on Nengun and Greenline. It is possible to re write the stock ecu though with good results or go for another stand alone type ecu such as Haltech or Wolf. You can safely acheive about 180rwkw with the stock ecu and injectors a new fuel pump

As you are only after about 200rwkw a HKS2510 would be ideal. They are also ridiculously cheap as no one wants them because we all want over 250atw Combined with a new fuel pump, 440cc gtr injectors and a programable ecu as well as a front mount it would be a weapon with good torque (for an rb20) right through the revrange. Around 16-17psi should see it make a tad over 200 at the rears. With 264 drop in cams you cold expect to see another 15kw atw at about the same boost. Then i'd be looking at a better exhaust manifold, high or low doesn't matter, provided it flows better than the stocker. If you eventually want more than 220atw then a larger turbo like a 2530 would be the go.

The rx turbos are steel wheeled, though you may find it to be a bit laggy as the rx trubo has a pretty big turbine to suit the high exhaust flow of the rotary engine

hmmm. The comp housing is identical to the t300s i have but mine has a .67 exhaust housing with old school oil only core. I'm expecting it to be a bit of a lightswitch on the rb25 with the small exhaust but a bit choked at the top. Hopefully should see the high side of 250rwkw.

Hey cubes, the hks manifold and turbo combo you have pictured looks to be identical to the kit i have picked up recently. Is it a HKS T300s turbo on there? Any info on response/power?

Problem with the SR injectors is they are the same size, unless you manage to pick up a set of s15 injectors. As for rx7 injectors, the rb20 rail doesn't fit. You would need a custom rail. Other than that no real issue with using them. I was in the same position a few months ago when doing and rb20-25 swap. It was easier for me to sell the 550 top feeds that were fitted to the rb20 and get a set of 550 side feeds.