BHDave

And i've just confirmed both mounts are snapped. Also up for sale a set of my old track rims with fairly worn out semis (on the indicators and a few cuts in the tread block from rubbing on stuff but still good for another day or 2) wheels are Desmond xr3 (basically a super advan copy). front 17x8+30 with 215/45-17 AO48's, rear 17x9 +35 with 235/45-17 RE55's. $700 pick up pics are with the old street tyres. I can get photos of the current tyres if anyone is interested i ran these wheels before i ever touched the guards. You'd probably need to roll the rears on a 32 to clear the re55's though

because you're an idiot! No wait, because you're smart! Since crashing my 32 i'll probably be heading down the s chassis sr route myself....

Yep, but it's a 90% chance it's stuffed. I hit the tyres at maybe 140km/h on the front passenger side front corner and a lot of stuff in that area is bent.

On an s14 it's a pita. You have to take the top half of the plenum off. Luckily the gasket is reusable.

Hi sam, I'm hanging onto the rear subframe and arms for now though with the weight of the thing you'd probably be better off getting one from a local wrecker as it will cost a lot in freight

I bent my r32gtst yesterday so i am parting out the salvageable bits of the shell and misc bits and pieces of trims and panels. I also have a few aftermarket bits and pieces and the rb25det and box. The aftermarket parts listed are all i am offering on that front but obviously i am not listing all of the available stock parts from the wreck so please ask if it's not listed. If you are interested in something but need more details please pm or post as i am keeping this ad brief due to the number of parts. I'm negotiable on prices to a certain extent but low ball offers will be ignored. Almost all parts are still on the car. I would prefer to sell the engine before removing the pfc, coils and looms so that prospective buyers can see it run before removal from the car. After that goes it can be a free for all. I will remove listed parts from sale if i find that they are damaged when i start dismantling. I have not listed any parts that i know are damaged (like radiator, intercooler, z32 afm or power steering pump) r33 S1 RB25DET long motor with extras inc HKS 256/264 cams and adjustable exhaust cam gear. No turbo, coils or injectors on engine but a rail and 6 stock injectors will be provided separately $2000. Includes all sensors but no looms or alternator/power steering pump/AC compressor. 6x550 side feed blitz injectors in rb25 rail $500 r33 rb25det Power fc inc hand controller $1000 r33 S1 RB25DET gearbox with custom 1 piece tail shaft suit r32, modified GTR speedo drive, slave cylinder and modded cross member $1850 rb25 det engine loom modded to suit late r32gtst manual. Minor changes will be needed to suit stock afm (4 wires) and o2 sensor(3 wires). currently wired to suit z32AFM $250 GTR front drivers side guard with lip rolled and a small dent above the wheel arch, silver, $200 GTR front drivers side indicator $100 GTSt indicators, pair $150 GTSt front guards with compliance indicators, pair $300 rb25 ignitor $125 rb20/25 CAS $100 And the after market bits Trust remote mount oil cooler $500 Xtreme XHD 9 puck clutch kit $500 Cusco comp coilovers damperand height adjustable front and rear 8/6 $850 Cusco master cylinder brace suit 32gtst/gtr $90 Whiteline 24mm front sway bar $180 rb20/26/s1rb25 splitfires $400 Trust type R bov $200 Just jap B pillar brace $100 Cusco castor rods $150 Maltech braided brake lines ADR compliant $250 Just Jap adjustable front upper control arms $250 Stock front upper arms with nolathane adjustable bushes $150 2 Davies craig 14inch thermos $100 ea. I'll throw in the controller if you buy both. I can probably pull together the parts for a 32gtst manual conversion (minus box, clutch and flywheel) for $150 or so. Master and slave less than 3 years old. I have the full interior in reasonable condition except the drivers seat and the carpets a bit rooted. misc bits and pieces like rb20 and 25 alternators (1 each) rb20 and 25 AC compressors (1 each) rb25 starter motor, various AC lines, full boot trim, etc etc Most panels rear of the A pillar are ok, though the passenger side door would need repairs to the leading edge. Thats about all i can think of. Front brakes, diff, rear arms, rear brakes and rear swaybar are not for sale. cheers Dave

The hks 256/264 cams are good. They work for me. I'm not saying you need them as you could probably max the turbo with out them but you would make your 260rwkw with less boost, with a slight trade off in light throttle drivability around the 2k rpm mark. Good for a track nugget if you want to look at it that way

no. It can be made to fit but not really worthwhile anyway as it will make around 10rwkw peak more than your rb25 turbo can.

so the shocks aren't seized, it's just the height adjustment? Any mechanic with half a clue and a set of C spanners should be able to sort it if he has some decent penetrating oil or a big enough hammer.

is this an external gate setup or internal gate with stock style turbine housing? Something is choking the power and killing the response, it could be the turbine housing, it could be a cam out by a tooth or a heap of other things. First you need to confirm the details of the turbo i think. If it's a big turbine in a smallish housing with cut back blades then you have a problem.

Thanks mate. I'll have to give him a ring.

I had a different issue. Mine cleared the sump but not the whiteline sway bar gtst not gtr though I gave it to a mate and it is now happily sitting on his s13 track hack in my back yard and it clears the whiteline bar on that

who did the welding on the turbine housing for the gate?

You can do it in a 2wd as well though, the committed driver has the out side wheels loaded right up and will take the tightest line possible. I don't have a particularly well setup or powerful car so i will take any advantage i can get! There's a great pic of boz in the s2000 with the front inside wheel in the air over the back of a ripple strip too. Markers on the inside penalize the experienced drivers, not the car type, on anything but the tightest corners. I can understand it on a hill climb where you have genuine 1/2 gear hairpins but a hair pin on a track is generally 2/3rd gear where the 2wd guys need to maintain corner speed and adjust their lines to make up for the improved drive out of a corner that the 4wd's have.

simonr32 had very good results with that turbo. He'd be the guy to comment on it. I know cubes has commented how well that turbo works with an rb25 somewhere on the forum

I have no problem with GCG as they are local to me and so it's convenient. They are a bit pricey on a few things but having local support is worthwhile so it doesn't bother me so much. You don't want a malpassi reg. Waste of money. My other issue is the fitting kit. It is handy as it has all the bits you need to fit up the turbo but if i were to do it again i'd look at getting the water lines in braided speedflow or earls lines rather than the heat sleeved rubber the gcg kit comes with. I have already cooked one and have since redone the water lines. If i were you i'd find a local turbo supplier for all of the little bits and pieces like gaskets and lines, check the traders forums for good deals on the turbo and wastegate, manifold etc.

Don't forget rwd vs 4wd as well edit, looks like boz beat me to it....

It'll depend on the engine really. I couldn't run more than 21psi with my old setup before valve float, others have run more. Because of the boost control problems i haven't really been able to push mine but it was making 255-260 pretty easily on 16psi. You may need a bit more boost as you don't have cams in there.

bollocks, heat the shaft with an oxy, then you can straighten the wheel, then chuck water on the shaft to cool it down.... though seriously, install the wheel, get a wheel alignment. You will have a bit more lock one way than the other which you probably won't notice anyway.

I've been there every time my car has been on the dyno. I don't know that cautious is the right word, but he is certainly very careful during the initial stages of a tune making sure all the basics are covered before starting to chase power. I can guarantee he will push you to jam some boost into it. Or maybe he just does that to me because he knows i'll let him.....

fc rx7, it also broke towards the end of the day. Funnily enough within about half an hour of the first rx7 dying Dont get me started on Mazsport! They are the reason no workshop touches my car, but also the reason i'm fairly handy with a set of spanners these days so i suppose i can let go of my 10 year grudge....

what sort of difference are we talking? I have the .63 and no surge issues. boost control, shit yes, surge, no. I do have 256/264 cams though. -33- also has a .63 IW. He hasn't mentioned surge either, just the boost control problems good choice of tuner too btw Gary

Have you even cleaned the wheels since you picked them up jono? I'm sure there was still one of my finger prints in black on one of the fronts. Chris, Don't write off the current combo just yet. If you still have scope to adjust the bars then do that first. Put the rear on hard and then play with the front until you are happy with the balance. After that you may want to look at bigger bars again before playing with the springs and dampers. You need more front camber. If the car isn't really street driven i'd look at 2.5-3 degrees up front and 1.5-2 at the back. You need more caster. Dial in as much as you can with waht you have and make sure it's even both sides. 2mm toe in for the rear, I run 4mm toe out on the front which is probably a bit excessive but it seems to work. You are also now playing with a mechanical diff which will increase the cars tendancy to want to drive straight. You may need to alter you driving to suit it.

Exactly the right spot to destroy the alignment, Duncan! i drove mine for the first time on sunday after taking that line around 30 times a couple of weeks back. Something is bent.... I noticed both lotii stayed off the ripple strip through there too. Everyone else in open was mad for hopping over it. Lots of sparks. Come on Marty, 99% of us weekend hacks will never be as good as boz no matter how much practice we get

I think the constant bullshit commentary was a negative. I had to yell to be be heard over it and eventually went around to the other side of the track to get away from it. The plus was watching cars through the flip flop. The Lotus's (Lotii?) were by far the most composed through there. It looked like they were going to the shops for a litre of milk while everyone else was bouncing over ripple strips and fighting the car, especially the landcruiser (and all credit to him for keeping it on the track) I witnessed middleton run up the arse of the 34. Rank amateur fu(k up by a so called experienced campaigner and he didn't even have the decency to apologize. It's actually the first time i've witnessed car-car contact at a track day so it makes you wonder how guys with no experience know how to keep a gap and read what the car in front is doing and he doesn't.... I agree with jagr33 about pro driver in clubsprint too (sorry boz) but i'd go one step further and make it privately owned and run cars. There were quite a few cars in clubsprint which were heavily backed by workshops and were obviously entered in that class as they didn't stand a chance in open. While it's not against the rules i think it goes against the spirit of the rules....I'd change them for future events (because i'm not that much slower than that s2000 when it's driven by it's owner ) All in all i think it was a good day and hope to see more.