BHDave

I considered a VQ swap for my r32 but the lack of a cheap box put me off. The only manual boxes come off the 350Z and V35 skylines. The engine probably came out of a Cima or Cedric (i think), which are all autos. An adapter plate would probably be the best option for cost as the above boxes fetch stupid amounts of cash

When are you doing the work? Dumhed still booked in? If it's still off the road in a couple of weeks and you need a hand with it pm me and i'll help out. I've done 3 in the last month now so am getting relatively good at it. SR boxes are easy.

Sounds like your clutch is dragging, have you bled the hydraulics to make sure you haven't got air in the system? As steveL has said, if you can get the car out of gear when it's switched off then it'd point to the clutch not fully disengaging rather than the box being stuck. Even with the clutch dragging you should still be able to pull it out of gear when the engine is running. If you're really lucky you have a dragging clutch and a rooted box Swap them both.

Just don't drain it first or you'll have a heap of fun trying to get fluid back into the master cylinder. Just fill the reservoir up and pump the fluid through, topping up the reservoir as you go. Do it the same way as you would your brakes. Stop when the fluid coming out of the slave bleed is clean and bubble free.

Why are all these cars off the road? Clutch swap is only a 4 hour job at worst.

What sort of info are you after? A couple of things come to mind. The under dash plugs are different between early and late model r32s so if you have an early model Car and a late model front cut there will be some rewiring required. The brakes would need to be upgraded. The DE cross member can be used. Worstcase the DE engine mounts on the DET would solve any problems. Used your DE powersteering and AC pumps to save you having to remove them from the car, Change the bracket on the block if needed. Gearbox and tailshaft should be alright, same lengths etc. Does the DE have an LSD? You will probably need to cut a couple of holes for IC piping.

Have a look at the adjustable actuators sold by gcg. hks make them too. My hks one was set to 12psi and held perfectly on the stock turbo.

Yes it will work. The gtr and gts have different mounting brackets for the pump. The gts bracket will need minor mods to fit the gtr style pump, and thats it.

I have just installed DCBXHD and it drives fine in traffic, gets a bit juddery when crawling along but nothing too bad, dunno how the hd will go for power though.

Very dirty grey r32. People tend to miss it as it doesn't stand out.

I've seen you twice in the last week. Drove past you near Petersham station and then past it parked this morning on my way to work. Looks nice and fat, how low is it?

You say that now but after a couple of weeks driving around with 200atw you'll want more The good thing is with the items listed you can have a bit more power fairly easily.

You mean t3g? Water cooled, plain bearing, odd ball dump bolt pattern that requires the matching hks dump pipe to bolt up to an rb frontpipe. Dunno about the oil and water line banjo sizes though.

Probably worth pulling the kick panel off and seeing if the pfc has the power on light working. The fuel pump is triggered by the ecu from factory so i would expect the pfc has power to start the pump.

My stock bracket was a mangled mess when i got the car, i made a new one out of the one that came with the stereo and bit of strap steel.

I know there are different part numbers between some rb20 and 25 coils. They are interchangeable though. My Late model rb20 r32 had the same coils and part number as the coils in my rb25, where as some of my replacement coils i had as spares that i took out of another rb20 had a different number.

A mates sr20 is pushing out 219rwkw with a 2510 on about 18psi. You should be able to manage something similar. This is about the limit of the 2510.

Aslong as you have a late model r32. Otherwise get yourself some late model water lines. And thats it.

I have a 9 puck XHD on the way as well after the diaphram in my twin plate snapped in 2 and it was in need of new plates as well on opening it up. As it was only a TS2A (380hp rated) i dont think it would have been up for the caning it would get behind the rb25 anyway. I'm currently driving around with my stock RB20 clutch in, so nice to drive after a 1000kg bitey unsprung super light clutch and flywheel combo. So hopefully the new clutch is nice to drive. I'm a bit more confident after reading this thread.

I had to refit my stock clutch this weekend as the diaphram on my twin plate snapped in half, and it is very happy holding 200rwkw. This is a 140 000km old clutch too by the way, with original plate and no machining. I am picking up a new xtreme 1060 pressure plate and 9(?) puck plate for 750 bucks as the twin needs a full rebuild due to the buggered diaphram and worn plates ($1200) and i am a bit sick of it for daily driving. If money is a bit tight you can have your stock pressure plate recoed with a heavier diaphram and a button clutch for less than 350 bucks if you look around. But the you have to rip out the box to replace it

They will fit up perfectly and you wont have a problem. The rb20/25s1 coils are externally identical and rb20 coils can be run quite happily by an rb25 ecu. I'm pretty certain all the rb's with stand alone ignitors use the same splitfire coils anyway.

Was the crank angle sensor replaced prior to the problem starting? there a few different types apparently. The missfire could be a result of stupid amounts of fuel. Have you checked the fuel pressure? It may be the problem, could also be bigger injectors if you're really lucky

It's not particularly difficult if using an rb20 gearbox as it saves with custom tail shafts. The wiring is the hard part as Ryno has stated though i didn't have the same problem as him. To avoid it you can keep the RB20 body loom (for lack of a better term) and strip the knock sensor and air regulator out of the equivalent r33 section of loom and use that bit only. Also, under dash plugs on the r33 engine loom need to be changed to match the r32 under dash plugs and the big rectangular plug up near the airflow meter needs to be swapped to the r32 plug. All this requires a heap of tracing but isn't particularly difficult if you take your time. You also need to wire in a couple of r32 plugs into the r33 loom for the fuel pump speed control dropping resistor and the climate control temp sensor that sits on top of the heater hoses if you have a late model r32. I also wired in a relay to activate the secondary aac valve when the air con kicks in. Thats the basics of it. Doing it all takes a bit longer. Good luck.

Nope, they are a completely different design. You would be looking at a full custom rail to suit the injectors. Youre better off getting a set of rx7 top feed or GTR injectors that will fit straight into the existing rail.

I had a similar problem the first time i fired mine up after the engine swap. Turned out to be the fuel pump speed control wasn't plugged into the dropping resistor and so when the ecu wanted to drop the fuel pump speed at idle it would stall. An easy solution to the problem if you cant find the resistor is to chop the wire at the ecu for the fuel pump speed control and it will have the fuel pump work at the normal speed all the time.