BHDave

What model car? R32 has cable drive which normally just dies completely, R33 has electronic which may become intermitent

The davies craig instructions state swaping the polarity on the fan engine and swapping the blades over make it a pull type. Worked for me.

The factory map sensor only runs the dash guage, there is no input to the ecu. The afm signal is what will cut the fuel (if there is a cut), though i could max mine at about 4500 rpm and never had an issue with fuel cuts.

Simple answer: Yes. Long answer: Yes, but you need either 4 stud disks the right thickness and diameter or redrilled stockers, you also need to shorten the s13 banjo bolt and make sure your wheels will clear the new calipers. It's also worth upgrading to an s14 master cylinder as they had the 4 piston fronts though not absolutely necessary.

$450! where are you guys shopping. Picked up a newie s14 master and a new slave 3 weeks ago for $130 from Nissan. Minor mods to the lines were required for the master and the thread had to be shortened to get the adjustment due to the cylinder being set a bit further back but the bore size is the same, total travel is the same.

With the turbo smart ones you have to have them wound out a touch for them to work properly. I cant remeber exactly how much, it was in the setup instructions, something along the lines of wind it all the way in and then so many turns out for your initial drive then adjust it up from there. Sorry, it's been a couple of years since i owned it so can't remember exactly.

Couple of easy fixes and a speculator. The cold start is fairly easy, just make sure your auxiliary air valve has power when the ignition is switched on as this is the only part of the loom that needs mods. Pretty certain i had to wire in power for it. Idle step up for the aircon requires an additional relay wired into the loom triggered by the aircon on signal to the compressor. Power goes to the secondary valve next to the idle contol valve. And the specky: No HICAS or front spoiler are probably related to having no speed sensor signal to the ecu.

So the diff itself actually bolts up no prob. I wasn't aware of the spline differences but was pretty certain the drive shafts were bigger. Also i think the gtr uses a 6 bolt hub. Thanks for the reply.

Gotta love the death rattle, mine gets it anywhere below 2k if i put my foot down a little. One more think to spend money on

If it was a late model rb20 turbo with the same water line banjo size and it has had a decent increase in wheel size then i don't see why not. If it's just been rebuilt with steel wheels than probably not.

The speed sensor is on the back of the dash cluster. Check for continuity between the plug on the back of the dash and the ecu,if you get nothing then run a new wire, if its ok, check the pcb on the back of the cluster for a broken track, if this is ok then look at getting a new sender. Note, early and late model dashes have different senders on GTSt's so check your's before getting a new one (if you have to).

It's the speedo cable, it's either come un done at the gear box end or has chewed out the speedo drive at the top end. The speed sensor on the r32 is connected to the back of the speedo drive so when the cable goes, the hicas goes bonkers and power steering weight initially goes light, then the hicas light comes on and weight is increased over standard, but it doesn't stop working completely.

Just wondering whether it's possible to swap diffs between models, say for example r33 gtst viscous LSD and driveshafts into r32 gtst. Or even r32 gtr rear diff and shafts into 32gtst. Also does anyone know the type of LSD used in the gtr rear diff? Plate type or viscous? What mods would be needed to the tail shaft/mounting points for either to fit? Or worst case (more expensive) is an r32gtr rear subframe a bolt up to an r32gtst using the gtst suspension components? Just looking at my options as my diff is well on the way to open wheeling and i'm not really keen on an aftermarket diff atm as the car is a daily driver and harsh enough to drive right now.

You're no fun. But seriously, ask too much boost what a difference removing the 2 way in his cef made to his steering.

It's the 2 way. Swap it for a stocker and the car will turn. Or just turn in really aggresively and go around the roundabouts sideways. I'll take the diff off your hands

You will need to pick up a tee piece from pirtec and connect into the factory sender position, use the tee so you can keep your stock sender.

They are a standard denso plug, pretty much any fuel injection specialist will have them. If you were in Sydney i'd recommend petroject.

Yep, i run 2 x 12 inch fans plus the factory electric fan, had to remove the viscous fan to fit my cooler piping in when my engine swap was done. There is bugger all clearance between the engine and bonnet to get anything over the top of it as i had originally planned. I dont know if the gtr radiator is a 3 core, my gtst also has a twin core. As someone else mentioned on the r32 temps, mine was almost always smack on 75 degrees with the rb20, It would peak at about 85 in traffic or after a prolonged flogging. Only time it ever came close to overheating was a 40 degree day with the air con on and stuck at the toll gates on the M5 for 15 mins.

I'm with Cubes on this one. A couple of thermos stuck onto the radiator isn't as effective as having a proper shrouded set up. I have noticed this on my last 2 cars. On the other hand, my r32 gtst back up fan still kicks in at about 85 degrees, which means i have 3 fans running at that point and she still gets close to 95 in traffic every day. I will be swapping to a bigger radiator, flushing the whole engine and replacing the thermostat very soon as well. Probably look at making a shroud of some sort as well.

As MR R32 stated, there are hours of fiddling. You have to trace wires and swap the dash plugs and the main power plug in the front corner of the engine. But all the info you need is the pin out diagrams for both rb20 and rb25. The rest is just tracing wires from these plugs on both looms so you can connect it correctly. And then run the wiring for the other plugs i mentioned above. I probably spent close to 6 hours on the loom when i did my conversion, not including the z32 afm and emanage wiring. But the car fired first go. This is the second loom i have done, the first was for an sr20 into a cefiro which took a lot longer as i had to figure out what i was doing first and then run new power as the sr loom picks up its power on the drivers side as opposed to the passenger side.

One of my mates is using remote mount Bosch type r coils run off the standard ignitor on an sr, he ran the same setup on his Jun 2.1 CA. On his CA it ran 1.4 gaps with an AF ratio deep into the 9's at one stage with no misfire, was making about 160rwkw at the time as he was taking it easy on a new turbo. He had made closer to 200 prior to that.

As for a hybrid loom, thats a load of shit. R33 engine loom will be used with the exception of the wiper section of the loom. You need to swap the main power plug in the front passenger corner of the loom for the r32 one and trace a few wires, and the same with the under dash plugs but thats it. If you have the fuel pump speed control connected at the ecu you will need to wire in the dropping resistor and if you have a later r32 then there is a sensor on one of the heater hoses that needs to be wired in for your climate control to work properly but that it pretty much it.

The body loom (if thats what it's called) that runs on the drivers side of the engine in the r32 is a direct plug in on the r33 engine. It should be un touched with the knock sensors and air regulator valve removed form the eqivalent r33 loom and plugged in. In that situation the car should crank at the very least as the loom is un effected. I would be checking that power is connected to the CAS, Injectors, Ignitor and coils as these will prevent the car from firing. Fuel pump obviously needs power but that is a fairly easy one as there is a single trigger wire from the ecu to the fuel pump relay that can be traced by looking at the r32/33 pin out diagrams. I'm pretty certain it's the same pin as well. Even with the fuel pump speed control, that i mentioned earlier, not connected the fuel pump will work.

If you are keeping the fuel pump speed control then you need to wire in the dropping resistor. Power for the injectors can be picked up by one of the 2 relays near the ecu. I think factory it comes from the big ugly plug in the front corner of the engine bay Wipers can be done easily by stripping that part straight out of the r32 loom and adding it to the r33 loom

Not all of them. RB25 has a bump, for lack of a better term, in the timing cover for the vvt cam wheel on the inlet side.