BHDave

Simple, all you are doing is chopping the wires either side of the resistor and connecting them back up. You may need to modify the injector plug to fit the GTR plugs as the rx7 injector has an offset locating pin. All you need to do is file it flat.

I looked at doing this swap, 3 things put me off it. 1) You will have to adapt a gearbox to suit or pick up a box off a 350z or v35 skyline and a custom tailshaft. That shit is worth close to 8k on it's own. Then you have to sort a clutch for it. 2) Bugger all aftermarket for them atm and i think there are some major differences between the early VQ30 in the cimas and the later one supposedly going in the GTR so any aftermarket support will be limited even in a few years. 3) I'm ****ed if i could find any wiring info or pin outs on the VQ30. And that is what breaks it for me because if i can't find that, i cant get it running.

Yep, that'd do it. Mine starts off light then after about 3 minutes it goes heavy as ****, then after another couple of minutes it gets the hicas light come on. If the speedo works then it shouldn't be the hicas unless it has another issue

If you still had hicas you would have noticed a big difference in that too. Mine died a couple of days back too, same thing. Problem is that the little square drive isn't supposed to come out of the cable so it's likely it'll die again soon. Mine fell out again today, luckily i picked up a s/h speedo cable on christmas eve that'll be going in tomorrow.

If they have a brown top they will be low impedence and suitable for drop in replacement. If they have a pink/purple top they will be high impedence and will still work but you will need to remove the factory dropping resistor pack from the loom. I cant remember part numbers off the top of my head but it really does come down to the colour of the plug as there are series 4 high imp injectors out there with low imp part numbers (i have a set) the difference is the plug colour.

Did you get the dump on properly? Have you considered allen key bolts if not? Just an idea.

Looking at the second pic where i can see your bar in the background i'd say it's so the bar fits. Have a look at how thick the stock front bar is at the top where it fits over the support and you'll see what i mean.

s15 turbo is actually a much better turbo than the s13, particularly if you get a JDM one, not to mention atleast 7 years newer. k&n filter, 3 inch generic exhaust, generic front mount, x force manifold, s15 turbo, 264 cams and a bleed valve. On 11-12 psi you will see better than 180rwkw on stock ecu and injectors. And yes i've seen it done twice on 2 different cars with similar results. Ecu, injector and afm upgrade will have better than 200rwkw.

I'll take them for $800. I'll pick them up whenever your available I already sent you a pm a couple of days back. pm me or call to arrange payment and pick up cheers Dave

bump

Yeah i know that, but there are still people out there that just cut the thing without considering what else it affects.

Yeah, the hicas seems to have been sorted out with the speedo cable bodgy fix. Which makes me wonder how screwed up is the hicas/power steering for all the guys who cut the speed sensor wire to the ecu.

I have an R33 series 1 turbo, come out of a front cut i bought recently, still had stock lines and dump front pipe on it, less than 100k old. Looking for $400ono, prefer sydney buyer so you can inspect it. I also have an adjustable cam gear, used. It will definately fit rb20/26 in/ex, r33 ex(unless you want to remove the vvt then it'll fit the inlet too). $150ono, will post.*SOLD* 6x RX7 550cc injectors, high impedence, plugs modified to fit rb20 plug. Cleaned and flow tested 15000ks ago, been on car since. $350ono. *SOLD* Turbo still available, price drop to $400.

Speedo cable is falling apart from the look of it at the dash end, jammed it back together temporarily and it has fixed the speedo for now, will now see if it fixes the hicas issues when i go out in the morning.

Can anyone tell me if the speed sensor on an r32 is dependent on the speedo drive? Problem is like this, I got in my car this arvo, left work and noticed the speedo wasn't working. I was pissed. Then the car decides to stall everytime i pull up, which it does occasionally when it's hot started so i wasn't that worried. Then i noticed the steering was really bloody light, and then the Hicas light came on. Now about the only thing i could think of for the 2 going at the same time (other than me being unlucky) is that the speedo drive is used for the HICAS speed input somehow off the back of the dash. Hicas is already locked. Already checked all the plugs on the hicas are in and the fluid is full. Checked the speedo drive is plugged in at the gearbox end and that it still turns freely, haven't pulled the dash out yet to see if it's come off there. And will probably pull the speedo drive unit out of the box over the holidays to see if the teeth have stripped off it. Any other suggestions? Cheers Dave

Whats with the big arse dip? dud coils would have had your car missing all the way to redline, i wouldn't have expected power to pick back up again that high in the rev range.

Have you considered splitfire drop in replacement coils, they retail for around 500 bucks for a set now on Nengun and wont cause problems with the PFC.

Well if fuel pressure is dropping off as boost rises then yeah, it's more than likely the pump. No matter what the pressure is supposed to be

Use the r34 loom and ecu(or an r34 pfc), there are a few bit's and pieces that the r32 ecu wont run, like the vvt which in the r34 is constantly variable, unlike that r33 which is on or off so easily controlled with a simple switching module. You would also be swapping plugs on the injectors and lengthening bit's of the loom to suit the different positions of the air regulator. You'd also need to get the ecu chipped/tuned to suit the rb25 where as the r34 will run it no problem. On the other hand there will be a fair amount of work required to get the r34 loom plugged into the r32, particularly the under dash plug

About the only thing you can do short of installing cams and will be to back the boost off, or if you have an ebc that references revs then bring the boost on a little softer at this point.

Fuel pressure is 2.5bar base (unless you have an aftermarket reg and have set it higher) so around 37psi (2.5*14.7psi). so 50psi at 14psi boost is pretty much spot on. What this means is your fuel pump is fine and your reg are fine. The 2 things to check at this stage are your base timing and your a/f ratio for an accurate a/f reading get it on a dyno. Before you do that get yourself a timing light and a 1 foot plug lead that you can connect to number 1 spark plug and jam the other end in the coil, take your reading off this as it gives a much better result than using the loop at the back of the head. Forget about the knock sensor at this stage, disconnect it when the car is on the dyno, theres a 2 pin plug near the ignitor that plugs into the 2 sensors that you can trace. If it is running lean then it may be the injectors, or a possibly a single injector. I have seen a good dyno operator diagnose this problem with one power run and he even pointed to the cylinder that was running lean and causing the car to ping.

You dont need the s1 ignitor with the s2 coils. It "should" simply be a matter of tracing the power, earth and signal wires from the s2 coils back to where the s1 ignitor plugs in. There will be 6 wires (for 6 cylinders funnily enough) running direct from the ecu to the s1 ignitor, these are the signal wires that i am assuming have to be directly connected to the s2 coils. The other wires are self explanitary (the pinouts will be written on the coil itself). I'm not saying it wont pop your ecu though as i don't know if there is any difference between the ignition signal circuitry in the s1 and s2 ecus.

It could just be me, but why would you run a turbo that small and a supercharger that big, it's back to front.

Thats why i can remember it then, seeing as i'm getting old and watched motorsport religiosly every sunday as a kid

I know the name but have no idea where it is or was