BHDave

I'll beleive it when i see it, but it is on the cards and once people start moving into the new developments in the area it'll only be a matter of time

It helps to look at what you have first. Both of the stock banjo bolts have a restrictor too so now i dont need to find one That makes a total of 3 factory restrictors between the block and the turbo, i guess Nissan were trying to get it spot on.

Could be a VG turbo. I'm pretty certain there were bushed versions

Even a VG30 turbo isn't that laggy on the rb20, maybe it's had a highflow but even then i'd expect it'd make boost by about 4k. Any identifying numbers on the housings?

Damn, you really want it all don't you Ever considered a V8? I wish i had stock response. You could try Jap Import Spares at Lansvale 9755 7533 which is where i got mine, Maybe Ichiban at moorebank if they are still around, they've been doing engines for years, Jap performance while your in moorebank, Auto disposals (can't remember where they are though). Aria Jap at Yennora reckon they are cheap too, can't say for sure, 9681 6444.

UAS have a stainless high mount manifold for about 1200 from memory. There are cheaper ones around on US ebay too.

Forgot to mention you need to mod the tailshaft if you use rb25 box and yes an rb20 clutch will fit. You will find the engines coming out of front cuts seem to have a better chance of being healthy. I actually did a deal and pulled the engine out of the cut in the wreckers yard along with loom and ecu, didn't want the box (it was rooted anyway) 4k+ seems to be the going rate for a rb25det manual frontcut from wreckers. You will probably be able to find one cheaper if you keep looking around and go to some of the less known import wreckers.

I'm in the same boat. In a month i'll have rb25 power too. It's already in the garage getting timing belt and water pump changed and cam gear installed. My rb20 is well rooted and badly in need of replacement, compression well down, problem with random misfiring that i could not find after swapping every bloody thing attached to the engine. So for about 1k extra for a replacement engine loom and ecu and a lot of work in the back yard i'll have an extra half a litre to play with. And the 25 will actually match my GCG stage 2 highflow unlike the 20, particularly with the manifold thats going on it

Spotted a veeerrrryyyy nice looking r33 gts-25t at campbeltown today, which is saying something as i'm not a fan of the r33 shape. Dark orange, very low on dark grey 18's with a nice rear bar and skirts, couldn,t see the front. It also had the rear wing replaced with one of the small lip ones that sits flush with the top of the rear guards. Very impressive.

Nice to hear you're starting to get somewhere with it.

The horn problem will be due to a short in the wiring running to the seering wheel. Remove the horn button and check that the horn plug is hooked up and not rattling around inside the wheel causing the problem. I had to rewire the horn in my last car as i was getting the same problem when i went over a bump the horn would go off.

Thats pretty weird as i ran up to 16psi in my r32 gtst with no problems, no boost cuts or anything. What you are describing does sound like a cut though. The error code is not necessarily saying your car is experiencing detonation, rather that you have a dud knock sensor. Try un plugging the sensor and see if you get the same error code. Also remember to reset the ecu once the knock sensors are unplugged as it displays all the old codes if you don't. I would recommend winding the boost back to 12-13psi as a maximum as the turbo is at the edge of it's efficiency around this point anyway, once you start adding more boost you will definately start to get detonation without some sort of ecu mods

As gtst said, The profec A is a fuzzy logic controller that supposedly learns to hold boost settings. Reset and set it learning again

You haven't played with the wiring at all? or anything else that may help diagnose the problem?

Don't worry about it, it's blocking the stock BOV return line as they have fitted an atmo venting BOV. All you need is to tee into a boost signal point (basically any point between the turbo compressor outlet and the plenum will do, your diagram has it tapped into the fuel reg signal line by the look of it which should work okish) and a connection to the actuator. No tees in the connection between the solenoid and the actuator, just a single bit of pipe. If it's connected this way and you switch off the ebc you should have slightly less than the cars stock boost and so you have eliminated any problem with the plumbing as SK has stated.

Nah, i've just had an rb25 in the garage to look at for the last couple of weekends so everything is fresh in my mind.

Based on the other stuff thats been going on with the car would you be surprised if the diff was open wheeling as well? On a side note, thats a nice straight looking exhaust you have there.

Yep, the yellow ? connects to the green ? too. I'd say the two big ones will be the heater circuit and you can simply connect the two smaller ones off the top of the larger lines. I'd be guessing but i reckon the front would be the higher pressure one. For the turbo water return there should be a water connection at the back of the plenum and the other is a banjo as mentioned in my first post.

I had a snapped one at the back on an engine i bought and the front snapped off when i was test fitting a new exhaust manifold. I hate removing snapped studs so i swapped them all for new ones. Auto one stock them if your interested. With the water lines on the block one will be a high pressure and one a low pressure so as long as you plumb it with that in mind you should be right, even if you just connect them together. I'm assuming now as i dont know if the rb30 had water lines running to the throttle body.

Ah, thought you had the two in tandem as the new ebc is tee'd into something. The actuator controls the wastegate so we're probably talking about the same thing. So now i'm stumped because if you remove the facory boost controller the boost should drop as the wastegate is pretty soft so with the new ebc hooked up and switched off it should read about 6-8psi depending on other mods

Plumb your new ebc directly to the actuator and a point just after the compressor outlet or where ever the r33 gets it's boost signal from and bypass the factory solenoid completely. You can leave the solenoid hooked up but just make sure you block off any hoses that will cause a boost leak.

No prob, but you'd be surprised how many people don't know any better

I'd check the brake switch at the pedal to see if it is still working, than check for a signal at the brake light if the switch is working. There may be a short somwhere down the line. As for the fuel pump, you've got me. Has it ever done it before? Is it getting constant power or was the tank getting low and causing it to run dry?

Pod filter wont effect your idle and yes, it's as easy as getting a filter and an adapter to suit. You can use a cheap bleed valve to increase boost by a couple of pounds but until you get a front mount is wouldn't be going nuts and winding in any more than that.

While the exhaust manifold is off i'd be swaping the exhaust studs too as the stock ones like to snap off, particularly the front and rear one. It'll cost less than 50 bucks and save you alot of hassle later on