BHDave

The one in yellow is the air regulator valve (basically adds air when the engine is cold and slowly closes as it heats up), the other is the idle control valve. The yellow circled hose should be plumbed into the under side of the plenum somewhere. The 2 bare fittings can be connected and the green circled hose should be tapped into the intake pipe just in front of the throttle body. They aren't water fittings. The water fitting on the side of the block i have no idea but the 2 smaller fittings off the top are for the stock throttle body water feed and return. The oil feed is the one directly above the oil return fitting with what looks like a bolt in it and the water feed is at the back of the block right up the top. The other water feed runs around the back of the head and hooks into the back of the intake manifold i think. Is this an rb20 or 25? as you have what looks like an rb25 aac valve but no water cooling on the oil filter which may be what the other 2 fittings would normally connect to.

Is there an off the shelf fuel rail to suit the gtr style top feed injectors into the r33 rb25? Just wondering as this will be a dilema i will face in the next few weeks. Dont forget the injector plugs would need changing too.

I'm with Roy, mains and big ends are the most important. Unless you've holed a piston they should be ok. I'd do the rings as well though. With new rings you'll need to have the block honed to bed the rings in. Also as a minimum i'd get the head skimmed so it's definately flat, the block should be ok. Do the oil and water pumps and the timing belt while it's apart, it'll make life easier to do it now rather than to do it 6 months later once the water pump starts to leak on you. As you are now getting forgies check the clearance required as you may now need to machine the bores to suit.

The walbro kit makes it so easy, just remove the carrier, cut a couple of wires, undo a couple of hose clamps and slip the old pump out of the carrier. Then sit in the new one, do up the clamps, connect the power and earth wire with the crimps provided and bolt the carrier back in. 1 hour total if that.

I have being called Davo, but i'll live. There are 2 separate wires coming from the ecu, one is the fuel pump relay trigger, the other is the fuel pump speed control. The Trigger would be the one that would cause the issue, but that seems to be in the past now. Your main loom will be running up the chassis beside the turbo, if that has started smoking it's pointing towards a short in the wiring (again)

The fuel pump is triggered by the ecu through the main under dash plug, incidently one of the wires that gets chopped off the rb20 loom and re connected to the sr loom during the conversion. It may be worth checking. It could also be an issue with the fuel pump speed controller, also triggered by the ecu which may explainthe issue occuring when you try to accelerate. May also be worth putting 12V across the fuel pump terminals and see if it is ok or has seized up. When you get the injector clicking is the car actually turning over? If so then i'd rule out battery and dud alternator and dud connection between them.

no idea, thats why i'm asking. apparently there is one in the stock oil feed line but that will be going.

Hi guys, I'm going to be installing a braided oil line and probably water lines on a stock rb25 turbo (high flow) as i have now got a high mount manifold that moves the position of the turbo significantly. I'm wondering if anyone else here has installed braided lines to the stock turbo and if you had to install some sort of restricter on the oil line or whether it isn't really necessary. I've seen both on redtop SR20 turbo swaps and neither of them blow smoke so i'm left wondering if it's needed on an rb turbo. Thanks Dave

I spotted the cameras on the M4 today (thanks BDP). I still say i should have been pinged by now.

Whatever it is bounces like steel, hand still holding the handlebar? eep Even if it didn't rip his hand right off i'd say he'd have lost it later anyway as it would be too damaged to repair after severe trauma like that. Massive tissue damage and multiple breaks of the bones.

It will probably run, though idle may be a bit ordinary and it will likely be a pig and like to stall every time you pull up. As long as you dont flog it you will probably be ok as long as you aren't driving too far as you will be getting a lot of extra fuel in and at the bottom end of the afm range the signals wont be too different from the rb26 afms.

I drove past 3 bp stations yesterday in western sydney and they all had ultimate (filled up at the third one), drove past a few shell stations too and they were definately out of optimax. On a side note, i noticed some bp stations now have unleaded(91), premium(96) and ultimate(98) on the same pump so in case of emergency i know where i'll be looking first.

My mate just had his turbo rebuilt by GCG. They recommended 1500km at less than 10psi boost and not holding boost for too long. Also recommended disconnecting the bov too for some reason.

I think hpi wrote that the Auto box was costing about 20rwkw about 18months back so around 155 would be about right which isn't bad at all. I'd be interested to know what was done on the chip because all i found when making 165 was that my a/f ratio got down to about 11.8:1 You've also found that the stock turbo isn't going to make much more power with more than 12psi which is a good thing, so now you wont stuff in 14psi and shorten the turbo life. I found that running more boost ramped up the power quicker but peak power was barely affected. It also tended to ping coming onto boost.

Nice to see someone else is copping shit from mates with sils. Have you had a look at mixtures? The r32 computer adds a fair bit of fuel in the midrange though nowhere near as much as an r33.

I think you have a short in or around the fuse box for the cranking signal to be fired off the acc switch. As the starter isn't disengauging it also suggests that the ign switch is also shorted to the starter switch. It'd be pretty easy to check youself as the most likely point is somewhere around where the fire occured.

Use the power steering pump to match the rack and crossmember that you use. The problem with the r32 power steering pump is it has hicas lines on it too so i'd be looking to use the rb30 pump and rack using the rb30 power steering pump mount (thats if the pulley lines up with the crank pulleys, you'd have to check). The rb30 gear box will bolt up, it's pretty similar to the rb20 box, rb25 is a fair bit bigger but the bolt patterns are all the same, ther may be different out put shaft configurations though. I am pretty certain that the flywheels are the same but by using the rb20 flywheel and starter or rb30 flywheel and starter as a pair you will eliminate that problem.

It will bolt straight up and all the lines will fit perfectly as it's the same turbo externally as your stocker. Just get some new gaskets and copper washers for the banjo bolts. It's just a case of removing all the intake piping and dump pipe, oil and water lines and then unbolting the turbo from the manifold. Then installating is just the opposite of removal. It's a pretty easy job with a basic socket set and set of spanners, just take your time and you should be fine.

Sounds like the easiest start for you would be to replace the body loom between the fuse box and the starter or atleast pull it out and have a look for areas where the insulation has been rubbed off. Finding a replacement one for a cef may be a bit hard though one off an r32 gtst may be the same. Which part of the loom is catching on fire?

When i talk about the egr i mean the second valve on the plenum that is effectively an anti stall for when the car is cold (or so i have been told). Also found out today that the second plug going to the aac valve on the rb25 is supposed to be triggered by the AC on to step up the idle speed rather than having the other side of the aac compensate as in the r32. There are a couple more wires in the under dash plug that you may want to hook up but they are not esssencial. These are the fuel pump speed control, exhaust temp light, engine check light, ac on input, and the consult CHK, TX, CLK and RX and i think, though i'm not 100% that the earth and power for the consult plug are connected in here too. In the big plug at the front i have found that the ac relay trigger wire and power steering idle up trigger are in it as well as the neutral switch to ecu input and injector power that ben mentioned. And then you need to run 3 wires for the constant power and switched power for the ECU and switched power for the ignition relay as ben stated. My r32 actually has the same big plug in the front corner as the r33 loom but earlier models that i have worked on have a 4 pin with the main power and power steering idle stepper.

I'm in the process of doing this at the moment. I'm sticking with the rb25 ecu and engine loom and using the rb20 loom to the starter, alternator and oil pressure sender. The rb25 has the egr valve under the plenum so runs into the loom running down the drivers side chassis rail and the knock sensors do too. Luckily both simply strip out of that loom and plug straight back into the engine loom. The biggest problem i can see at the moment is the number of wires in the under dash plug on the r33 loom compared to the r32 loom. The wiring for the Wipers can simply be removed from the r32 loom and pluged back in so the whole wiper amplifier setup and wiring can be removed completely from the r33 loom. I am currently trying to figure out where each of the wires in the big plug at the front of the engine bay go on the r33 loom, i know one is the ac relay trigger, one goes to the aac valve (i think) and one is running to the under dash plug (dunno what it is though). Most of the rest of the wiring is fairly easily traced back to the ecu or sensor plugs. Then it's a case of doing the same on the r32 engine loom and joining the appropriate wiring. Not exactly rocket science but time consuming when your working off bits and pieces of wiring diagrams scattered around the internet and some of the plugs aren't shown (like why does an r33 have 2 plugs going the the aac valve when the r32 has 1 and why dont my diagrams show this or the egr valve?).

The problem is you've installed a number of things at the same time. Makes it a bit harder to diagnose.

Yes, 13B injectors fit in the rail. I used the late series 4 rx7 injectors which are high impedence, had to modify the plug slightly due to the rx injector having an off set key way to hook into the factory loom but that was it.

There was supposed to be some getting set up on the M4 west of sydney around May this year for a 1 month trial where ofenders were issued a warning during the first month and then straight into full use. I can only guess that it never happened because i would definately have received something by now.

The air temp sensor out of the series 4 wont work unless the microtech has been calibrated for it in the factory. I actually had this problem on a series 4 where the stock sensor was still being used with the microtech and it read from well into the negatives up to about 10-15 positive which equated to about 80 degrees i discovered when i got the correct sensor. The default setting is for an AC Delco sensor that you can pick up for peanuts at you local holden dealer or auto electrician but is about 5 times bigger than the s4 one