BHDave

For 160-165rwkw, which is the absolute maximum you are going to get with the stock turbo you will need a full exhaust, pod filter, front mount, some kind of boost controller or hks actuator and run no more than 13psi as the stock turbo is at the edge of it's efficiency at this point and only makes heat after that and so the engine likes to ping and thats about it. And i ran about 16 degrees base timing. Pretty easy really. But expect your turbo to die quite quickly at these power levels. Mine actually died at after about 6 months on 12psi. Stock fuel pump is fine at this sort of power, mixtures are fine but a little rich in the midrange though not by much and spot on at the top end (or atleast mine were at 163). AFM is maxing out at this level, injectors are generally running pretty hard with the stock pump too. for more power you need a turbo and management. My car had no boost cut. Cutting the speed sensor wire will effect the speed sensative steering as well and bugger up the automatic box's shifting if you have one.

I reckon your getting a bum deal there Roy. My insurance is atleast getting cheaper, whether it's cos i'm getting older or the car is i dont know If you make the r32 the full time track hack what would you drive on the road? A mira? insurance is peanuts, does about 2million ks per $10 tank but you dont want to get hit by anything bigger than a push bike or you can kiss your ass goodbye.

Try 3k. Is it the rear two cylinders that have spat valves? likely due to the modded plenum running the rear 2 cylinders leaner than the fronts. Maybe.

I'd say they'd be tein NR's which are a matched spring and shock unit. Some versions have an adjustable surclip to alter the height of the car, some don't and have an extended threaded section at the top of the strut so you can adjust the height by about an inch by preloading the spring. I am running a set of these atm and they are a very nice unit, not particularly harsh.

Yeah, it'd be easier but you're up for 100 bucks per line factory ic piping is near enough to 2.5 inch anyway so you shouldn't have a problem

It really is a straight bolt up. My only problem when i did this conversion was the compressor outlet pipe (which you have) that i had to fabricate on the day as the rb25 one is different from rb20. Get a gasket kit from gcg which included a new turbo flange gasket, oil drain gasket and dump pipe gasket and some new washers for the oil and water lines incase you drop one when playing. Probably be handy to have some new bolts, studs and nuts for the dump too just incase one decides to snap on you. Take your time and you'll have no problems. And use the rb20 actuator rather than the rb25 one as it will hold a bit more boost. I did the conversion in a day including the fabrication of the outlet pipe taking it really slowly.

Hopefully this works, it's the one from rb20.com you were trying to get. The diagram doesn't automatically open when you look at the doc but just right click on it and view it that way.

did you read the post champ? Try Jap Import Spares, www.jap.com in mt druitt or SSS Automotive in Girraween i think or ichiban in moorebank

How much power? Walbro may be struggling at anything over 250atw

If it's not dropping back it sounds a bit like wastegate creep as you have improved the efficiency of the system. I had this problem once i installed a full exhaust on a series 4 13bt but they are notorious for creep. The car should make a small amont of boost late in the rev range with the gate wired open but not that much! For a long shot: does the car definately have a stock turbo on it? It hasn't been swaped for an rb20 one maybe?

Check to see if the injectors are receiving constant power when the ignition is on. As there are no injectors firing i'd be looking at either the power to the injectors or a problem with the injector ground wire that earths ecu as the ecu switches the negative terminal on the individual injectors and then grounds itself through one of the pins.

So the boost is spiking and then dropping back to somewhere around 10-12psi or so? I would recommend having the actuator running off a point as close to the compressor outlet as possible, particularly if you aren't running any type of comtroller. I've found the shorter the lines when running boost controllers the better the control and reduced spiking. It's also the way it gets done on most factory turbo cars that dont use a boost control solenoid

The walbro isn't a bad pump but about 250kw atw is as far as you'd want to use one, then upgrade to one of the larger external type pumps. The good thing about them is they will drop straight into a gtst or silvia. The gtr uses a different mount.

The walbro isn't a bad pump but about 250kw atw is as far as you'd want to use one, then upgrade to one of the larger external type pumps. The good thing about them is they will drop straight into a gtst or silvia. The gtr uses a different mount.

An r32 hub and upright can be used on the front but you will need an s14 rear as the skyline uses a rear drum brake assy for the handbrake while the s13/14 doesn't.

Yep, it's a problem. Best bet is to fit a turbo that is matched to your engine or to mask the problem get a boost controller that can reference boost against revs so you aren't trying to stuff too much air into the engine at low revs.

Already tried afm tried consult, threw up a few errors but nothing serious played with the fuel and rewired ignition and sorted a dud earth to tps and temp sensor, no fix. I'm going to chuck the engine, it's getting a little long in the tooth now anyway (about 180k) and replace with a lower k engine and replace the loom while i'm at it. Also got a new exhaust manifold to install which is high mount so will require all new intake piping.

I have tein NRs, not really coil overs but they work nicely. No adjustment or anything on them but they come as a unit, not too heavily sprung and a piece of cake to install.

If you want to start talking in terms of force applied moving an bjet a set distance then you are really opening a MASSIVE can of worms. For 1 it's incorrect and 2 you're forgetting about inertia, momentum, friction, acceleration and a few other concepts that i've forgotten abut in the last few years, not to mention the infinite variables that would render this method of measurement absolutely useless. Cul202 has the right of it theory wise, that is Newtons is a measurement of force, ie Force =mass x acceleration, metres is a measurement so newton metres is force x distance, also known as bending moments or torque. how to get a proper torque figure from a figure of 6000N is beyond me i'm afraid

All the r32 gtst, gts4, gtr and gtr vspec1 use alloy sumitomo calipers. vspec2 uses brembos

It's the s14 and 15 ones that are iron

Both can be turned easily enough. Both of mine had to be rotated to suit the rb20 exhaust manifold as the previous owner was running the turbo on an sr20 with custom manifold. It just means that there's a possibility the actuator wont mount up properly if you rotate the compressor housing in relation to the exhaust housing.

And the s13 uses the same carrier as the r32gtst so an s13 kit has everything needed and fits perfectly, no need to modify anything. Hardest part of the job is getting the fuel lines off and on. Thats if you have an r32. R33 no idea.

2535 will be running out of flow at 240, gtrs will be running out at 270. Last i checked the gtrs was only available with a t25 flange (rb25det uses t3) and i think wrx applications were just coming available. The 2535 is available as a bolt up option which really only means that the dump and exhaust manifold will line up, you may get lucky and find that some of the oil and water lines will fit with a bit of bending. If all the lines can be made to fit you can do the job in less than a day if you have a bit of mechanical aptitude and get a few bits like gasket kits in advance. It's not a hard job as the turbo to manifold nuts are easily accessable. You may need to fabricate a compressor outlet pipe (i'm unsure if the 2535 matches the rb25 compressor outlet) I think the 040 will be touch and go at over 250rwkw and is rated a fair bit less than the 044. 044 would be fine. Yes the car can be run at low boost safely, just make sure you can resist the temptation to up the boost till you fit injectors and tune.

Actually, what i've just written is pointing more towards a restriction between the intake manifold and the turbo, not backpressure at all. hmmmm.