tacker

yer about 472 hp at 20 psi with pons cams and i believe giant runs these on his R32 and that has a fair bit more than i do.

tuner is telling me that this is why the stock intake pipes are corregated to reduce this effect, basically makes the pipe length longer. Hey BB how are things? Got your big engine yet? I brought it of one of the forum sellers and i cant complain about it for the price, infact rather chuffed. I dont think that the pipes are all to blame i think that is just going to be the easy fix. It would appear that the combination of cams, cam timing, a lot of head work, removal of ACC valve and tune have all played a part in this saga. Going to try and fit up a section of the stock pipes and get the filters out of the engine bay and into some cold air, so may get a small benifit out of this after all.

guys, have found the problem and its got sweet fa to do with the Power FC. Seems the length of pipe between the AFM and the intake of the turbo is far to short. Once we installed some longer pipe the problem with air being pushed back out the AFM has gone idles fine now. Not sure if other with hard pipe kits have had the same problem before. So it now i work out some way to extend the intake pipes or i change over to a MAP rather than MAF.

CP pistons are a good option and eagle rods are not to bad either, the set i got measured up very nicely.

aye i have been using them for 2 years on a track only car and still working ok.

Paul / Trent thanks for the help guys have had to travel back to Oz as my brother is crook andhad to pick up 2 front screens. Still no better off so the tuner tells me, but we can count the PFC out as it doing the same with standard ECU and injectors. I am leaning towards a short in the loom at this point, or a boost leak some where. Still the same when the 02H turns on it goes to poo. Quite happy to sit and idle for some time until the heater turns on and without much of an increase in the injector duty it goes real rich say 2.9 to 3.1. Paul, it was indling fine for weeks enough time to get 6 hours on the engine before removing it, and surely with the linkage adjusted right it has to get a constant flow of air it the one part of this issue that cant change. Maybe the BOV spring has lost it tension and is unseating allowing the air charge to decrease will check that and some known AFM from another car. Will be back with more info when i hear. Also going to remove the heater relay if i can find the bloody thing.

Paul / Trent, yes i have 2 sets of 02 sensors and it does the same with both with the 02 feed back option on or off. It seems to idle ok when hot with the sensors disconnected but will still stall when coming down from higher RPM to what should be the idle RPM. It was idling fine some 2 weeks ago before i had to pull the engine to made some mods to the oil pick up on the sump extension. After putting it back in i have this issue, i cant see that i have done anything incorrect putting the engine back God knows i have enough pratice lately. What i cant understand is that its has a 13:1 AFR until that bloody 02H turns dark then the AFR just keeps getting richer until it stalls. What i cant understand is what relationship does the 02 heater turning on have to do with the ECU then dumping in more and more fuel? Tuner is saying the same thing Trent lets just get rid of them and retune the maps so it idles, as its at WOT most of the time anyway when on the circuit. LOL and with fuel prices at an all time high of 50 cents a litre in Dubai i care not what the economy is. Trent i have data logit so if you can send a screen shot we will certainly have a look at these areas. Thanks for the help guys i greatly appriciate it. Chris

any ideas which sensor controls the 02H on the power fc hand controller please.

Cheers Paul. I will look at the function select as you mention as i have never altered it. I would say that i have the original 02 sensors both sets that i have tried as least. I have have the acc valve off for some time and the idle has not been an issue for months until this problem appeared last week. By removing it i have cleaned up the vacum hose arrangement. What does the 02H in the sensor check indicate when it turns dark as thats when the AFR goes very rich? regards

bump

Guys, have a idle issue with the Power FC. What is happening from what i can see on the hand controler in sensor check is that the engine is happy idling away with a AFR of low 13's. Then the problem starts as the 02H on the hand controler turns black the AFR drops to below 10 and the poor old car stops. As this is happening i can see no blips with the voltage on the 2 x 02 sensors, nor on the 2 x AFM voltage, yet the AFR gose south and it stops. Car runs quite happly with 02H with just the empty circle for about 8 to 10 seconds, but as soon as it turns black she stops. would this have something to do with the closed loop operating as i no longer have the ACC valve on the car, which has been gone ofr some time and i never had this issue. I have replaced the two 02 sensors and it made no difference, although when i disconnect the 02 sensors the car idles ok. any ideas.

i believe the guy is a trader on here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/m13684.html mine was 240$ plus shipping.

pic as promised

hey my kit come in and i fitted it yesterday, had a few daggy bits about 5 minutes with a die grinder. Have to say that it fitted like a charm, have to relocate the power steering res but not to hard to do. And i was impressed with the stainless clamps they were a nice surprise. Only other issue was i run rb 25 AFMs so a little size mismatch. was enough hose to slide the larger one over a smaller piece and it worked well. will snap a pic and post tomorrow. All in all quite happy

have you check valve clearence check the exhaust valves on # 6

lol mine shoul dbe here soon :-) just as well i have a fad on at the minute with tig welding

you need to bleed the system possible the bleed nipple is at the top and back of the gear box you will need some tranny fluid to top up the resivor in the boot too. There is a plug at the drivers kick panel and a plug you need to open to have the pump run so you can try and remove the air in the system.

Bring back JIMMY!!

Ok good start, but by unplugging the ABS am i unplugging the wheel speed sensors to the 4wd system. i guess if thats then the case i could just reconnect the wiring with an adpator or a lot od soldering. then if the wheel speed sensor are running through ABS that will sort that out. need to look at diagram

Ok good start, but by unplugging the ABS am i unplugging the wheel speed sensors to the 4wd system. i guess if thats then the case i could just reconnect the wiring with an adpator or a lot od soldering. then if the wheel speed sensor are running through ABS that will sort that out. need to look at diagram

tell me more about that BB

i use JJR cam gears and have been no issue. Been off and on more time than i can count too with engine rebuild and cam clearence adjustments.

if you dont have any reference from the makers of the cams then thats what i would do.

I have search the entire brake section and can only find a few what ifs etc. I understand that for a road car that ABS needs to be kept in for a whole host or reasons. But for a track only car it can come out if required. I understand that a different master cylinder is required aong with changing some of the piping which is no big deal. I have a kit for making my own hard piping so i can deal with that, even gives me the chance to install the brake bias into the system. what is a great unknown to me is the effect it will have on the 4wd and other systems still in place. Are the wheels speed sensors connected through the ABS unit and then into the 4wd computer. If so can they could be bypassed so the 4wd still works. i guess i need to hear for some one who has already done this swap, so i dont go in blind to a real problem before i start.

YESSSSSSSSSSS bugga now they want Fook all to do with it! Any one want a cheap R33 shaft LOL any way i am sure you guys will be fine.