tacker

I have a track only R32 GTR and i can tell you it does make a difference. I have an APR adjustable wing and it can either be a help or a hinderence it does take time to get the set up right but it will be a benefit if you take the time to set it up. I did a test with my engine builder who reckons there crap and do nothing, 2 laps at full angle seen him bouncing down the straights ( very funny ) 2 laps at no angle saw his over steering at every corner again very funny! and 2 laps at normal settings... i believe he now likes rear wings!

Me too ! I think its a fantastic oil did over 3 kms at low RPM and no oil pressure i could see on the gauge, turned out bearings and crank was still in good shape and i can only put that down to the oil

pic of Mocal water to oil cooler with electric pump

some pics

No duncan its a Jun pump so i am told

we have good oil pressure at a 1200 idle when hot of 36 psi this is why we think it might be an relief valve problem, might need to put a bit thicker shim in it. Going to pull engine out tonight and have a look at the pump seems strange to have good pressure at idle but a bit low up high not sure what else it could be.

We did a track mapping Vs Rpm and found that the high % engine RPM was firmly planted above 4.3k RPM. Which is due to circuit lay out, and most circuits here are F1 standard so not to many tight corners to worry about. I guess in a track only type car we hope to see better performance higher up in the rev range. Also the amount of head work the builder was very keen to see some bigger lumps involved.

Ok guys, i have done a search for hot oil pressure and i see that nissan say that for a rb26 the oil pressure at 6000 rpm should be 65 psi. I have just installed a new engine and we are getting 65 70 psi at 8000 rpm and i am not sure that is enough. Think i might have a pressure relief valve problem with the oil pump. This pump has not been touch since being removed from the old engine and its bottom end was perfect, just killed # 5 piston with a broken ring land. I was told as a rule of thumb that 10psi for every 1000 rpm is that what i should be looking at?

Drop the Ac compressor off the engine block

DJR, i have removed the stock oil water cooler and put a remote filter set up in its place, little bit of dickin round with the adaptor for the threads but nothing major. I have now installed a Mocal oil to water heat exchanger this i have installed in series with the water flow from the radiator into the engine. along with this i have a electric pump in series with the mechanical pump which turns on at 85 degrees. Seems to work well at the momment. Set up required to install quite a bit of extra piping as electric pump is installed in front of passenger wheel, increased the volume to about 10 litres in total. And i need it over here going to be 45 for the next 4 months :-)

Early stages yet and no dyno sheet to prove it but i have just rebuilt my engine and have some 260 degree cams with the -5's. Feels like its responding early to pedal input but that could be due to the shortened exhaust or the slightly higher comp, will get a few more kms on it and then its a dyno session so we will compare the old stock cams to the 260's.

Its a great event to watch! i have watched the past 2 in Dubai run by the same company that run the 24hr series. And i could even enter the old crap box i call a race car as they have a local section in the dubai event, but sadly will be driving our evo project car which will be lots of fun i reckon.

ok no pics yet but if you line the rear section of sump extension up with the inbuilt diff housing not the cover you will be ok. Try for some pics tomorrow.

Ta mate

we flow tested the injectors and put the higher 2 in 5 and 6 cylinders

Ok will take some snaps in the next day or so. And running a 1mm restrictor on the new engine which was startred for the first time wednesday so will be a few weeks before we get on the track in anger. Still have not found the reason for engine failure yet so it a slowly slowly approach. Its a time consuming job to work out the mounting and cutting out the sump to fit it but good news its quite good quality cast alloy so it welded up a treat. Recomend that you bolt the sump to and engine block while its welded and let it cool before removing it so it dont warp. Mine came out perfectly no twisting or leaks yet

just filled up my new hi octane sump extension and with that and the twin oil cooler circuit a whole 10 litres was needed, hope that totally remove any oil stravation issues :-)

second on the mad engine design crew! Just got rid of just about all of them the 2 main vacum pipe outlet now go to the brake and clutch boosters 1 water line round rear of engine to turbos and another between the thermostat housing and rear of block. 1 small vacum line for boost control an one to bov rest plugged up

would go for a fuel problem to by the look of it

Anyone know what brand this is please

yer you seem to have had some det which will have a broken ring land when you get the piston out at a guess. Have a look at the other pistons when you get them, take note of how the pistons look where the ring touches the ring land see if there is any marks that look like erosion.

Any guess's?

whole heap of vacum lines

the porssche RSR do use fans on their oil coolers but a fair bit bigger than a pc fan

nope their a good thing