tacker

Hi Paul, Ok what i have done is run a whole new line from the COM port on the solinoid valve over the engine into a tee piece, then to both to both waste gate actuators. I then plugged the old exsisting vac lines to the actuators with a bolt and clamp. I have then used compressed air to determine which of the exsisting vac lines connected to the original factory boost controller are connected to where, ie before the turbos or after. I then connected the vac line plumbed in after the turbos to the NO port of the solinoid valve, And again plugged the other exsisting line now not used. The wiring, i used the exsisting ( original nissan ) boost controller harness, and then plugged the new cable from the Apexi solinoid valve into the exsisting plug that was connected to the original nissan boost controller, and therefore should be connected to Power FC through this original harness. bugga need coffee now after typing so much :-) There is no spiking as such it sits rock steady on 1.15 bar if i have the boost limit on the hand controller set to 1.2 bar, we proved this time after time on the dyno last weekend. If we removed the vac hose to waste gate actuators and left it open to free air then it would spike, but wouldnt move from 1.15 bar while connected to the COM port on the Apexi solinoid valve. Even if we connected either of the older exsisting lines from the factory boost controller on the NO port it made no difference, hence why i dont think the Apexi solinoid valve is getting a signal from the ECU, or the valve is not functioning when it gets a signal.

this bloody thing is still not working went to lift boost to 1.2 bar to find it has just been using the actuator spring. Could the harness from the ecu to the boost control solinoid be damaged, guess i will need to check. Tried to run at .8 bar only to have it go into boost cut no matter what value i entered in the duty cycle. GRRRRRRR

yep if you have the power FC already and you want to get more HP then a bigger turbo is the right way to go about it but you will need the improved fuel system to match, so injectors and fuel pump should also be done to be safe.

Just done this myself and put new clutch and aluminium flywheel in. Most of the work you can do yourself and the clutch fork is not to bad, pull the R clip and push the pin down with a screw driver. You will need 2 of you to wrestle the box back about 5 inches which is enough to get the clutch out and remove the flywheel. Also easier to undo and tighten the flywheel bolts with 2 blokes. I do suggest if you can to leave the box on some jacks and leave it close to the orginal position if you dont have any work to do on it. Again 2 bloke to push it back into position makes it a little easier, also install the clutch fork with the new thrust bearing connected to the fork back into position before you start to push the gearbox back. It will push itself into the correct postion the first time you push the clutch pedal in, all in all about 5 hours work.

Ok cheers Gary

Easy enough to check the TPS for a R32 GTR .5volts at an idle to 4volt wide open not sure of the values for a 240sx TPS. Although i would have thought the ECU would have gone to rich and retard rather than fuel cut. And although i have not experienced fuel cut, surely it would cut fuel down to a point where the wont run rather than lean it out to the point where it could damage itself. Also as you are just starting to make boost as you mention are you confident that your rising rate fuel pressure reg is functioning correctly. Again it might not have been the rpm window you refer to that killed you engine, the ingition timing higher up the rev range could be causing knock and chipping away at your pistons. Would pay to get the car on a dyno with some det cans to check both AFR and knock that way you can discount the knock /det problem and concentrate on the fuel issue. And by the way i would not discount anything Paulr and nismoid say they have been at this for years and have a great understanding of what works and what wont.

Gary, i am the first to admit i dont know my a#$e from my elbow, hence why i ask. But if it is 3% of diameter then i think its ok your calc uses the side wall dimentions not the wheel diameter, again give me a kicking if i am wrong i usually am :-). If i use your tyre profile calcuations the 285 has a dimeter of 629.2mm while the 265 is 643.2. which is a 2.1% difference on diameter. Standing by to be corrected :-)

Hmmm, Gary i take your point about the smaller wheel on the front making the understeer worse, and i am going to put 285/30/18 allround next time as i know they will fit in the front wheelwell now without fouling on anything. Just as soon as i can locate a set of 18 x 10 rims with 37mm offset. I did manage to get 265/35/18 for the front which was about 32mm more than the 285 in circumference, would that be within the 3% ?

bite the bullet and get a better tuning option with a programable ecu. Not sure how it could be anything else if you have good AFR's higher up the rpm range where more fuel is consumed.

Do these compounds have UTQG rating ? :-)

What i found em :-) They were all homeless and stuff so i give em a good home. LOL might even bolt a set onto the porsche and take her for a run....just as soon as the clouds disapear that is. and there is this old shit heap needing a set too

yer but they all have holes in them LOL still need to get a set over to you somehow

LOL Russ which set of boots do you want to use:-)

no bottom end problem if you have oil pressure maybe a broken valve or spring ?

spun bearing or broken oil pump drive i think. Just been through it

Mate you would be better off checking out some tail pipe turbos which are a low pressure turbo. google search for them

if your going to disable it you might as well get the benifit of the weight reduction about 25kg in total with all pipes etc removed

In the boot next to the driver side tail light

On a R32 gtr i can get 285/35/18 with a 36mm off set on a 10" rim

yes good a good look at both of these cars, in fact there were 6 997 rsr in the race and a few 996 rsr aswell

yer what a car it is those RSR are just great to watch and the sound they make

what offset ?

here a none chain driven version

Neil, no chance a gtr will catch you, well no road going car at least ( giant excepted ) I have driven these beasties here and a good SR3 are a good 8 to 10 seconds faster while the SR8 is another 5 seconds further down the road. My mate here has the lastest carbon fibre SR3 and its a pure weapon.

yer have to say it is in mint condition