tacker

Yep there are a few, but not a great deal of cost in replacing the stock ones which are garrett anyway. As you will need to remove the exhaust manifold you will need some new gaskets, copper washers for the oil and water lines to the turbos. also you will have to alter the bolt holes in oil return line, as they the new turbos for some reason are a few mm closer than the stock items. New 2860-5 turbos have oil restriction in place so if you use these that is covered and stock lines match up. Responce would be relevant to which turbo you choose, either 2860-5 or 2860-7 i believe that the -7 is roughly the same as a GT-SS and the 2860-5 simular to the HKS 2530. I have the 2860-5 and they spool roughly about 500 rpm higher than stock units. you can pick these up new for about 1200 each with new actuators. Ohh and about $8 for the largest box of bandaids you can get ( box of 500 will do )

ok then do you have spark or are the plugs wet? If plugs are wet then you have fuel i guess. try another plug in one of the coils, see if it fires. Did you remove the cam timing belt, well i guess if the car started then stopped without any banging or crunching then it cant be to far out. best guess is its got to be either CAS connection check that as it will not fire if not connecting properly. If you say there is fuel then its got to be spark. If no spark then check if you can, by putting another CAS on. See if that helps

I think you should look at the Hi flow option as its what your talking about and they do exchange on your old turbos

Micheal any updates?

hope you marked the CAS before it come off. Anyway start with the simple things my fuel pump died over night, fine one day D.E.D next day. Pull the hose off your fuel filter and turn the pump on dont crank it though. see if there is fuel flowing through, helps if you have some one to help with this

Do you have atmo BOV? as it might be getting stuck open. Just a thought

I think you should run the car, then stop it and allow to cool down. open the radiator cap when cool and open the bleed bolt, i just keep adding coolant as it flows out of the bleed bolt until its a solid stream of coolant then put bolt back in and top raditor and put cap back on.

http://www.f1-live.com/f1/en/headlines/new...816151925.shtml Have a look at the link, these cars were out with us last track day. Different session though! Funny part was these things are plastic Nascar type of design, and all though they sound wonderful they are not that quick. Hand timing them sees the quicker GT3 porsche and my old R32 about 1 second quicker. :-)

ohh and dont do the fan belt up to tight either

i didnt notice any more power but i did feel like the heat soak was much reduced then when i ran without it.

And they be the bolts behind the cam timing belt at a guess

mate i am not sure about a GTS-T but if its anything like a GTR then dont do it unless you are sure of what your doing. You need to remove the engine vibration dampener of the crank shaft, all the alt, A/C etc. Then you will need to remove the cam timing belt. If you havent done it before get a mate who has or a work shop manual as there i a little bit involved.

if your in NSW i would speak to just jap about their alloy radiator, i have one and its worked fine. Do a search on them for others comments.

Flash you dont need a gasket you will need to use a silicone based sealant which is applied to the water pump just before you put it in place. Make sure the surface on the engine block is really clean of old silicone gasket, scrap it with a sharp edge then just before you place the new water pump with silicone gasket applied, give the engine block a spray and wipe with brake cleaner to get rid of any possible oil so the silicone bonds well.

I reckon this topic has been done to death now :-) And i am getting more confused each post .......which is not hard. As i now understand only international events required FIA approved cages. Now this is where i am getting confussed, any national event is covered by the local ASN. And it is up to them to approve a cage for MOTORSPORT within national events as long as the design of it and material is within the guide lines of appendix J section 253 of the FIA regs. Even if you purchase a bolt in cage from any supplier. If you installed it, then it is up to you to sign the paper work to present the cage for inspection to the ASN for the log book to be produced. They will then decide if its correct or not.

bond roll bars do a serch they are very helpful well they were when i spoke with them

ok dumb question to follow: How would balance pipes on the exhaust help with turbo shuffle on the inlet side? Seen N/A engines with balance pipes to help with the exhaust scavenger theory on L6 engines, but if that would work on a turbo engine i am not sure. Ok second dumb question to follow: Are the balance pipes before or after the turbo?

Yer but you have the added bonus that once you have punch a hole through it you just have to change it LOL. After i broke the seal the filter spanner worked a charm. Then removed Hicas no problem now

Flash if your going to go to the trouble of removing your pump i would install a new item as its a lot of mucking around to get the old one off and new one on. try just jap they have them in stock as many of the traders here will

LOL big screw driver and a hammer, drive the screw driver through the oil filter and then you have enough leverage to at least unseat it. Then you can twist it with your hands. Messy though!!

Not sure i understand how i would be in the shit. I have never said that these cages were CAMS or who ever looks after drifting in Australia approved: What i did say is that they are approved and homlogated by the JAF and made to FIA regulations. A good point would be to find out if approval from one ASN is carried over to another is possible, it must be as we see the V8 supercars race in this part of the world with cams approved cages, well i think they are CAMS approved?

yep but thats the price you have to pay to convert a skyline to LHD. You will see in the other pics that its a straight through jobby. I have no reason to pump these cages, but i have spoken to the JAF who are the ASN of the FIA for japan and these cages are made to appendix J section 253 article 8 regulations. These cage designs have been been submitted JAF who homologated them as the FIA ASN for Japan. Short extract of the aboved mention regulations; Any new cage which is homologated by an ASN and is on sale as from the 01.01.2003, must be identified by means of an idenification plate affixed to it by the manufacture, this identification plate must neither be copied or moved ( ie embedded, engraved or self destroying sticker ). http://www.fia.com/resources/documents/994...ppJ_Art_253.pdf I have attached a picture of the sticker on the Cusco cage i brought and if anyone can translate it for me and its not what it should be then the person who sold it to me is in for a tough time! as its an eye for an eye in these here parts

here you go nice little R32 GTS-T for $1200 + the ride home and import duties etc etc

Bloody hell with all these flash paint jobs on race cars i gunna have to throw a coat or two of jam onto my old girl. try as i might i can find a good pic of the old girl lol if you look close you can still see the gel coat on the bonnet. Still it has cost only 13k to date with new turbos and brakes and radiators and and and......

I just undo the bolt for about 5 seconds to let the air out. Fill radiator again and repeat until the is no air coming out and refill the radiator. helps if you run the engine until its hot and then let it cool down before opening the bolt.