tacker

LOL not that clever saddly. I tried to get a pic but no luck yet they come in 3, 4, or 6 foot lengths and have about a 3/4 inch bore and about 1 1/2 OD. My thoughts were to get 2 of the 3 foot items and install them into a aluminium header tank and turn them into an oil to water heat exchanger by running the coolant from the engine into this headertank whick is about 90 degrees on outlet of the engine. The oil would pass through this first then onto the 2 air oilcoolers before getting involved with the up and down bits. And hope fully get over this oil temp issue for good. I found that running my fuel return through an aluminium pipe back to the tank has worked well as fuel temp has dropped about 10 degrees ( measured on the black swirl pot )

Yep not sure where the factory guage is installed but would be really surprised if the 2 coolers i have would provide 50 degrees of cooling. I need to check the after market guage with some heated fluid to confirm it is reading right. As the stock temp gauge is nugging 120 ( well i think it is as the mark below the 150 line ) and the after marketone isreading only 80 ish.

Guys, Anyone used a linear oil cooling line? Which is basiclly a aluminium pipe with oil line fittings in each end and machined groves down its length mounted under the car. Used in nascars i am told rather than normal oil to air coolers.

yer camera kept fogging up.... as soonas i get back from Ghana i will take another LOL dont wait for it though who knows when i wil be getting out of here

not keen on tapping hole in sump though, but your correct it would be best location Second thought could installit as a sump plug though hmmm

could be i guess but it feels more like a push from the rear rather than the front losing traction. Car gets a little hoppy if you know what i mean. not sure if that to much rear grip or just losing front due to to much camber

Would i be right in saying that the oil flow in an rb26dett engine follows this direction. from the sump oil is picked up by the oil pump and pumped out through the oil / water heat exchanger. Then from there out,to the filter housing and from there out to the oil /air coolers and then returned to the filter housing and into the oil galleries to supply the slippery stuff to all those rotation parts. The reason i ask is that i installed another oil temp guage into the filter housing and iwas wondering if i installed it into the return line from the coolers as i have about 50 degrees of temp difference between the stock guage and the after market item and for the life of me this is the only possible reason my brain could come up with?

too right it would be, :-) i take some if you do make them. searched for ages for something like it. would not ba as simple as those i think... well on a R32 anyway and being able to split them rather then removing the drive shaft

I have been shown a pic with red hot rotors on my car by a bystander and his camera phone.

Hi flow maybe?

If its in the tank removing the fuel pump cover is about the only way of getting in there. Not such a big deal if the big plastic nut comes undone without to much effort.

no bent valves etc, man you were lucky

Ducan, not the best pic as the dust here in the dessert is just never ending! But it is using the whole tyre its just that only 3/4 looks like it due to the car being parked and driven in a straight line picking up dust on the inner 3/4 of tyre due to camber. I start to get under steer after about 15 minutes on track so i figure it must be to much grip in the rear and that is generating either heat which is causing the strange wear pattern or the tyre is what i think is graining, but i could be wrong hence why i am asking.

sorry to nick your thread but how accurate are these gauges as i installed another and i was getting about 30 degrees difference between the two gauges.

Looks like your going to have to do battle with the big plastic nut on the top of the fuel tank to get the bits out. May the force be with you, and failing that a nice strong lump of wood and a big old hammer.

nar got 7 acres to distribute them in :-). And 6 horse stables LOL, and i am sure the stallions wont mind in the least

Hmm might have to ship my old R32 back to OZ just to join in...or buys meself another to play with in OZ not sure if i can get back to Australia to watch, but i have a place about 45 minutes from PI if i can get back i will open up the joint for SAU members for a place to camp

i have set the camber to 1.5 deg on the rear so i would expect some wear on the inside of the tyres. I run more 5 deg camber on the front and i dont seem to have the same wear pattern on those tyres, they are a nice smooth ripple pattern. Then again they are only seeing a small percentage of the drive compared to the rears. Might try and run a bit less than the 28psi cold i currently run might give 26psi in the rears try next time out, see if that helps.

The large dark patches are just an imprint from the trailer. What graining is as far i am have been told is the large lines where the outer layer of rubber has become to hot and pushed into these small windrow like pattern. I can only assume that the tyre has got too hot for this to happen, should be a nice smooth ripple pattern i am told. If that is the case and i am hoping that some one can confirm this as i am not familar with these tyres then i will need to reduce the grip level to advoid the problem....i think :-)

i have them, and i have used them as their sole purpose as brakes for a track car. Car is good enough to run with porsche GT3, ferrari 599, 430 360, aston DB9, BMW M3 csl with AP brakes etc but cant catch them bloody Z06 corvettes they are seriously fast. I have them so far no issues i am worried about. 3 sets of pads used with good wear pattern, been off and on many times and still bolt up perfectly. You will need to duct air to them as all brakes require if you are going to push the car to 100% of it performance As far as i am concerned i would buy them again.

dont forget your pain relief ( VB worked for me ) and bandaids.

If you can twist the belt about 3/4 of a turn is a good place to start and very very small adjustments until it stops making the noise. Check out what a tight belt will do and i have done a OEM and N1 in the same way.

Not sure but i think i have got just a little bit to much rear grip, is this tyre graining?

Ok pic with the 54mm radial depth pads on, G4 track pads. Sorry pic is not to clear have problem taking camera out from AC to 40 odd degrees and to cranky to wait :-)

has any one ever checked the standard guage